Another Failed Ca SMOG thread - High HO & CO

Thanks for the responses everybody! I really am astounded by the suggestive help. :party:

I already dropped the exhaust manifold off at the muffler shopped and it should be welded by now (steel btw). I already thought this as a temporary fix, but thanks for the affirmation. The cracks were located in a few places above the O2 sensor, so they were definitely a factor concerning emissions.

Does anyone have any knowledge to what 703 injectors may do to a ca smog test? I have read online and found other jeepers who have had similar smog problems resolved by replacing their 703s.
 
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Measure the air charge sensor. It can cause what you are seeing. Most folks don't even know it exists.
 
I already relocated the IAT to the airbox, is what you mentioned the same?

They are one in the same, different names.
YOu should ohm test this sensor and your CTS. The computer uses them both as part of determining the correct A/F ratio. If either one of these, MAP and other sensors as well, fails, your heep will run more rich than normal. AS the IAT and CTS fail/stop working properly (typically too much resistance) The computer will add more fuel as it thinks the temp is too low. Too much fuel and you get unburned fuel going through your exhaust. Over time of not running correctly, the O2 sensor is also known to fail as well.
Consider looking at this..
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm
 
Johnnie thanks for the suggestion. I'll go through the rest of the sensors today and report back!

Any suggestions in regards to use of 703 injectors and dirty plugs?

Hopefully I'll have all the parts ready today to part my rig back together.
 
i know there are a bunch of stories of 703 injectors working for a renix, BUT i had issues for quite some time trying to run those in my mj(tried three different sets with the same results).
my final conclusion was that they are simply too much, and the renix ecu cannot control them properly. i had issues with smog, hard starts/running too rich whenever in open loop.
i firmly believe they are a bad match for the non-HO's. i went to the orange top "mustang 4 hole" injectors, and had no issues at all. i've run these same injectors in three different renix xj's now...run fantastic, pass smog with flying colors, and good mpg for a coffee table on wheels.
 
Any suggestions in regards to use of 703 injectors and dirty plugs?
Eroded plugs, i.e. gap has increased from spec, will effect emissions and power, dirty really doesn't make any difference, but if its really filthy, oily, wet, that indicates other problems that need to be fixed. As well, arguably enough foreign matter coating the plugs could short them instead of the spark jumping, I think they have to be filthy dirty and wet for that to happen.

Keep in mind, the Chrysler EFI (Don't know on the Renix) is adaptive, it will measure how much the A/F ratio when its in closed loop operation and adjust the fuel injector pulse width to get the proper amount of fuel injected into the engine, it stores correction values that also get extrapolated for open loop operation. SO, changing in fuel injectors with a different one should NOT effect it, it should adjust to it in a few dozen miles of driving.

That is why people putting in bigger injectors, find they do NOT inject any more fuel then the OEM injectors. Obviously if you put in smaller injectors, you may need more fuel than they can supply so that would hurt you.

Where the injector can effect emissions, is the spray pattern, that can differ with injectors, and old injectors can clog up and NOT have a good spray pattern. What reduces emissions is the fuel mixing evenly and atomizing well in the cylinder. A good injector will spray the fuel in a fine mist in a cone shape that is perfectly sucked into the intake port. An old dirty injector may spray a couple of streams off in the wrong direction, have the fuel lay on the intake walls and thus won't mix well or atomize well, and thus won't burn as well either, idle can be rough, emissions go up and power goes down. And a new injector that is the wrong type, the spray cone might be off a little and instead of the entire cone of fine mist being sucked into the intake port, half of it sprays on the walls of the intake runner, reducing that best mixing and atomizing in the cylinder. So if you have people telling a particular injector didn't give good results, I'd suspect that as a cause.

I heard, and it could be dead wrong, so confirm it with some one that can confidently tell you, that the Dodge Neon Injectors are cheap, available and work well in the Jeep XJ motors.

A can of injector cleaner added to the fuel tank can't hurt. Chevron Techron seems to be the best, most people swear by it, and there are more than a few that are a joke and don't do anything.

One other thing to keep in mind, use the Octane fuel recommended for you motor. Using higher than recommended octane gets you nothing at all, the thing is about higher octane, it is less volatile, meaning it doesn't evaporate or atomize as well, if your motor was designed for 87 Octane and you're using 93 Octane, that could make a difference in how well the fuel is atomizing and burning completely. In fact its been show in many motors designed for 87 octane and the owners were using 93 octane, they experienced stalling with a cold motor in below freezing weather. (Having said that, the higher octanes usually are a higher quality base stock with different blend of additives, so it wouldn't be shocking to see someone say they smog tested with low octane and high octane and happened to get a better result, that varies greatly with area, engine and all sorts of factors).
 
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Got home with all my parts; 943 injectors, welded exhaust manifold (smoke tested), & new gaskets.

I'm going to put this baby back together tonight and will have results tomorrow morning in regards to overall performance/operation. There may even be a possibility of another smog test tomorrow...
 
If it's the steel tube exhaust manifold, welding works better than on cast iron. The big problem with the steel tube manifold is the long runners for the two out cylinders, the rapid heating and cooling causes rapid expansion and contraction that bends the exhaust manifold back and forth, that is what causes it to crack.

The metal structure of cast iron doesn't take to welding for hi-stress applications, while a steel tube does take to welding. But the thermal stress on an exhaust manifold is so great, any problem can cause it to fail.

The exhaust manifold we got off ebay for my brothers YJ 4.0L had expansion joints (look like little metal accordion tubes) welded into the two longer outer runners to reduce that bending.
 
Expansion joints sound nice, but the job done on my current manifold was adequate.
I assembled the jeep last night and charged the battery overnight. This morning I fired her up and boy was I surprised, the engine started smoking. I figured I did something wrong and googled the symptoms and was relieved to learn it was the oil from the new gasket burning.

The exhaust smell from before has dwindled and I am overall happy I was able to complete this task for the ongoing project of getting to pass smog.
 
If it's the steel tube exhaust manifold, welding works better than on cast iron. The big problem with the steel tube manifold is the long runners for the two out cylinders, the rapid heating and cooling causes rapid expansion and contraction that bends the exhaust manifold back and forth, that is what causes it to crack.

The metal structure of cast iron doesn't take to welding for hi-stress applications, while a steel tube does take to welding. But the thermal stress on an exhaust manifold is so great, any problem can cause it to fail.

The exhaust manifold we got off ebay for my brothers YJ 4.0L had expansion joints (look like little metal accordion tubes) welded into the two longer outer runners to reduce that bending.

Expansion joints sound nice, but the job done on my current manifold was adequate.
I assembled the jeep last night and charged the battery overnight. This morning I fired her up and boy was I surprised, the engine started smoking. I figured I did something wrong and googled the symptoms and was relieved to learn it was the oil from the new gasket burning.

The exhaust smell from before has dwindled and I am overall happy I was able to complete this task for the ongoing project of getting to pass smog.
The YJ 4.0L was OBD-I and not renix. OBD-I had no EGR and a different manifold. The early/renix manifold has the EGR and O2 sensor bungs in it and are not available with a flex joint to my knowledge.
If visual/EGR is not required, then one could simply cap off the the intake manifold EGR and run the later model non-EGR exhaust manifold.
 
At this point capping off the EGR is not an option. I have came so far and want this to pass as it should.

Currently I have the Jeep up and running as previously stated, however I want to burn off some of the crud and old gas but can't because the tags are out.

I have went through and done a sensor ground test. Originally I had 7+ ohms of resistance, but brought that down to 1.8 by cleaning the c101 connector. Hopefully cleaning up the oil dipstick ground will drop the remaining resistance.
 
Got the resistance down to around 1.5 ohms and took her out for a test drive. Everything went well and the odor seems to have been banished. I'll be doing an oil change tomorrow and then take her in for a smog on Monday; wish me luck!
 
I forgot you had a Renix system, the Chrysler EFI system is adaptive, if the Renix system has an O2 sensor, then likely it is adaptive as well, but I don't much about Renix, I'm assuming it works basically the same as most EFI systems.

So you need to run your motor through several conditions for the PCM to learn and adjust to the changes you've made on the motor. I.E. if it was running really rich from the exhaust leaks, it is still going to run rich until it learns that it is wrong and adjusts.

It usually only take a couple dozen miles of driving to do this, but make sure the driving is varied so you're hitting all the different conditions. Steady power cruise at highway speeds, at 35mph also, stop and go driving in town, several different accelerations, like accelerating from a stop and passing maneuvers, and do both with mild acceleration, moderate and heavy (heavy being 3/4 power), WOT puts the vehicle in open loop (well for Chrysler EFI) so its NOT learning at WOT. Several coast downs as well, etc. So when you do your test drives, try to hit these conditions, to get the PCM to tune up its adjustments and get it burning the gas correctly, and you should pass emissions.
 
So whatever it was that I did worked because she passed.
Thanks for the help everyone! :clap:
V3D8CPX.jpg
 
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those are some good numbers

Considering all the pain and work, those numbers are exactly what I was looking for. I should be good for a while.

Again thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions and if anyone has a similar problem in the future do not hesitate to ask.
 
I forgot you had a Renix system, the Chrysler EFI system is adaptive, if the Renix system has an O2 sensor, then likely it is adaptive as well, but I don't much about Renix, I'm assuming it works basically the same as most EFI systems.

So you need to run your motor through several conditions for the PCM to learn and adjust to the changes you've made on the motor. I.E. if it was running really rich from the exhaust leaks, it is still going to run rich until it learns that it is wrong and adjusts.

It usually only take a couple dozen miles of driving to do this, but make sure the driving is varied so you're hitting all the different conditions. Steady power cruise at highway speeds, at 35mph also, stop and go driving in town, several different accelerations, like accelerating from a stop and passing maneuvers, and do both with mild acceleration, moderate and heavy (heavy being 3/4 power), WOT puts the vehicle in open loop (well for Chrysler EFI) so its NOT learning at WOT. Several coast downs as well, etc. So when you do your test drives, try to hit these conditions, to get the PCM to tune up its adjustments and get it burning the gas correctly, and you should pass emissions.
The Renix ECU runs in "real-time", and does not store drive cycles. Meaning every time you shut the vehicle off the ECU re-learns. Yes, it has specs/parameters that it uses for open/closed loop and A/F ratio etc.
But yes, driving it to get it to run better does help.
Considering all the pain and work, those numbers are exactly what I was looking for. I should be good for a while.

Again thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions and if anyone has a similar problem in the future do not hesitate to ask.
Glad you succeeded in your quest to pass emissions. I had to do a few things to get my MJ to pass. And it's numbers were similar to yours. Thankfully, I do not live in an "enhanced" area and do not have to run on a dyno or whatever.
 
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