DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
I finally got around to capping of my reverse lights with the 1" tubing.
A peak at what a certain traitor has been up to
- Thread starter DutchVDub
- Start date
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Got a new windshield frame today for 60$. The windshield is cracked but otherwise is complete and in good shape. Considering I sold mine for 200$ I can't really argue. Now I've got to rework the cage a bit so I can install it. Then I'll be getting a safari top for it and it'll be damn near a summer daily driver again.
I still need to figure out a way to either make my hydraulic steering self center (and stay there) better or sell it off for hydraulic assist. Then get a fuel cell and source a back seat for it.
I still need to figure out a way to either make my hydraulic steering self center (and stay there) better or sell it off for hydraulic assist. Then get a fuel cell and source a back seat for it.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Talked to Josh @ CrawlerTech for a bit and bounced some ideas and questions off of him in regards to the steering. He confirmed my thought that I can add in a bit of extra caster to help things stay centered better and he also suggested adding a little bit of extra toe-in. I typically just set my front to 0* of toe on a rwd or selectable 4wd vehicle but he said adding in a 1/8" of toe-in would also be beneficial. Then he suggested I check for over-steering to make sure my ram isn't trying to turn the knuckles farther than they're meant to go as this can cause the king pins to wear prematurely and also lead to knuckle failure. He said if thats been happeneing than obiously there is that much more excess movement in the knuckles and will subsequently throw off my steering.
I knew going into it with full-hydro that higher speed steering wouldn't be the same (I've been aroung heavy fork lifts and contruction equipment enough to know how hydraulic steering tends to wander) but at the same time I don't see any reason I shouldn't be able to comfortably run this thing at 65mph down the road w/o worries about inadvertantly steering myself off a cliff. The way I look at it, if they can build trophy trucks and ultra-4 (KOH) rigs that can do speeds in excess of 100mph with full hydro steering than I should have no problem setting mine up to let me drive my Jeep on the street to nearby trails like Left Hand and MSV w/o the hassle of retrieving and loading my trailer.
I knew going into it with full-hydro that higher speed steering wouldn't be the same (I've been aroung heavy fork lifts and contruction equipment enough to know how hydraulic steering tends to wander) but at the same time I don't see any reason I shouldn't be able to comfortably run this thing at 65mph down the road w/o worries about inadvertantly steering myself off a cliff. The way I look at it, if they can build trophy trucks and ultra-4 (KOH) rigs that can do speeds in excess of 100mph with full hydro steering than I should have no problem setting mine up to let me drive my Jeep on the street to nearby trails like Left Hand and MSV w/o the hassle of retrieving and loading my trailer.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
And it begins......
before:
after:
basic goal (I know, it was already there once. :banghead: )
before:
after:
basic goal (I know, it was already there once. :banghead: )
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
And windshield installed.
jeepfreak1020
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Thornton
What are the plans for this thing now dutch??
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Finish putting the cage back together to accomodate the windshield, mount new seats with sliders this time, install a back seat, and find a safari top for now. Eventually I'll be installing full soft doors and a full soft top again. Once that is all done I'll be looking to get some new tires and install beadlocks. I might also go down to a 17" rim so that I have more options for tires too, but I'm not fully decided on that.
Basically making it to where I can actually fit the entire family and then drive the Jeep to local trails. For farther away stuff I'll still tow it but it would be nice to be able to just drive it to places like Kelly Flats, Spring Creek, MSV/Coney, Left Hand and the like.
I did take it for a spin with the new alignment adjustments and at least up to 40-45mph or so there is a major improvement.
Basically making it to where I can actually fit the entire family and then drive the Jeep to local trails. For farther away stuff I'll still tow it but it would be nice to be able to just drive it to places like Kelly Flats, Spring Creek, MSV/Coney, Left Hand and the like.
I did take it for a spin with the new alignment adjustments and at least up to 40-45mph or so there is a major improvement.
jeepfreak1020
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Thornton
So you keeping the jeep then? had to bites on it?
What about that full hydro you got? You keeping that or what?
What about that full hydro you got? You keeping that or what?
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Yep, I'm keeping the Jeep and most likely the full hydro setup as well.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Got the cage mostly reworked. I'm going to use 1" tubing for gussets at most of the joints and I need to make a new harness bar as well. Next step though is getting the new ZJ seats installed. I started working on them but then it started raining. Once their in then I can bend up the new harness bar.
Bonus, UPS dropped off a few goodies. I got my fuel cell, sending unit/pump assembly, and the mounting straps in. I took Friday off of work so I can get things around the house ready before I leave for AT Saturday morning but maybe I can get the Jeep knocked out too.
reworked A-pillar spreaders, I'm also going to gussset the bottom of the bend.
windshield bars, the bottom one is 1.5" .120wall
with windshield in place
And after looking at a lot of buggies and other cage designs from rigs a lot nicer than mine I decided my previous roof was probably pointless overkill. For now I decided to keep it just a single roof bar. I might add more later but I do like how much more open it is.
Before anybody asks, there is a piece of 1.5" .120wall inside every seem in the cage. The reason for all of the cut and patch in the cage is because I recycled as much as I could from the old cage. The A-pillar spreads are the original ones just sliced up and with bends added to clear the dash. The center roof bar is actually the old harness bar.
Pics of the Twisted-Fab chassis' that finalized my decision to go with just the single roof bar.
Bonus, UPS dropped off a few goodies. I got my fuel cell, sending unit/pump assembly, and the mounting straps in. I took Friday off of work so I can get things around the house ready before I leave for AT Saturday morning but maybe I can get the Jeep knocked out too.
reworked A-pillar spreaders, I'm also going to gussset the bottom of the bend.
windshield bars, the bottom one is 1.5" .120wall
with windshield in place
And after looking at a lot of buggies and other cage designs from rigs a lot nicer than mine I decided my previous roof was probably pointless overkill. For now I decided to keep it just a single roof bar. I might add more later but I do like how much more open it is.
Before anybody asks, there is a piece of 1.5" .120wall inside every seem in the cage. The reason for all of the cut and patch in the cage is because I recycled as much as I could from the old cage. The A-pillar spreads are the original ones just sliced up and with bends added to clear the dash. The center roof bar is actually the old harness bar.
Pics of the Twisted-Fab chassis' that finalized my decision to go with just the single roof bar.
Looks good. I like the extra tube, but I have a tendency to put it on its side. With an open top I just wouldnt want something to come IN the gaping hole. I agree that one bar is strong enough and safe enough for 95% of situations - but overkill is better
Lookin good man :thumbup:
Lookin good man :thumbup:
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Looks good. I like the extra tube, but I have a tendency to put it on its side. With an open top I just wouldnt want something to come IN the gaping hole. I agree that one bar is strong enough and safe enough for 95% of situations - but overkill is better
Lookin good man :thumbup:
Yeah, I get what you're saying and completely agree. Luckily I never roll so i should be safe. :gee:
I can always add more tubing later and very well might.
Driver's seat tacked in. To get it low enough I'm going to have to weld the rails in, but the seat is still removable from the rails with 4 nuts that are fairly easy to get to so shouldn't be an issue.
If I do add more tubing it'll probably be like this:
TrentFab is one of my other favorite chassis manufacturers
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DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Got the new fuel cell installed. I raised it 5" off the floor so i have storage space underneath. Bonus, by slliding it over a bit the mounts provided a perfect spot to keep a few quarts of various oils.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Got a chance to hop on the internet, here is what I managed to get done on Firday. Now I'm in Camp Dodge, Iowa until the 20th for AT. When I get back I need to add in the harness bar, add in my 1" tubing gussets, and I'll haave to rework the rear cage a bit in the middle to allow for more headroom. I might also drop the rear seat down a bit farther and see how that goes. Once you add in the car seat my kid just doesn't have enough headroom as is.
rear vent line
And all the seats, plus cage painted
rear vent line
And all the seats, plus cage painted
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Yeah, I'll pad it up just like my last one. I bought a bunch of foam pipe insulation from Home Depot that works real well, especially fully wrapped in the cheap 10-pack variety electrical tape.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Soft top action
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
So I was playing around a bit with my tape measure and a calculator, and also looking at the stock YJ specs listed on Jeep Forum.
They list the stock height at the rockers for a YJ on factory 27" tires at 18". My jeep sits at a rocker height of 30" (give or take a 1/4") on tires that measure out at almost exactly 38" tall (yay IROK 39.5" accuracy). That means I have 12" of total lift over stock with 5.5" of that being tire. So somehow with just a SOA swap on larger diameter 1ton axle tubes I managed 6.5" of lift. This is despite my stock (plus 1 main leaf) XJ springs being almost completely flat at ride height. I didn't think I actually had that much lift but its nice to know you can clear 39.5's (measured 38") on 6.5" of lift easily. The goal this winter is to french the springs into the frame and lower it at least 3", all the while going up to either a 40" or 42" MTR/Kevlar.
They list the stock height at the rockers for a YJ on factory 27" tires at 18". My jeep sits at a rocker height of 30" (give or take a 1/4") on tires that measure out at almost exactly 38" tall (yay IROK 39.5" accuracy). That means I have 12" of total lift over stock with 5.5" of that being tire. So somehow with just a SOA swap on larger diameter 1ton axle tubes I managed 6.5" of lift. This is despite my stock (plus 1 main leaf) XJ springs being almost completely flat at ride height. I didn't think I actually had that much lift but its nice to know you can clear 39.5's (measured 38") on 6.5" of lift easily. The goal this winter is to french the springs into the frame and lower it at least 3", all the while going up to either a 40" or 42" MTR/Kevlar.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Used some scrap I had to turn the former spare tire mounts on my tailgate into a hi-lift mount.
