A peak at what a certain traitor has been up to

[DutchVDub]

Oh yeah, I still have over 60ft of DOM to use.

 

[DutchVDub]

Ok, so I'm planning to work on the rear cage this weekend. I decided to actually somewhat plan things out this time. No real math, just a better visualization of what i want. On the front half I just kind of made it up as I went along, I really like how it turned out but want to make sure the rear matches the design. I'm also 50/50 right now on if I'm going to dovetail this thing or not. My neighbor keeps pushing me towards it and I do like the idea. With that in mind I used my awesome PaintCAD program to lay out a plan.

Top image:
(Yellow represents tubing; green represents the dovetail)

Rear Image 1 (harness bars and b-pillar bracing):
(Red = cross bars; green = triangulation bars)

Rear Image 2 (rear spreaders and triangulation):
(red = cross bars; green = triangulation; yellow = spreaders)

Side View:
(red = cross bars; green = triangulation; yellow = spreaders)

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

[Kiefer316]

Are you getting rid of the stock (roll bar) cage?

 

[DutchVDub]

Yes, the only thing that will remain of the stock cage is the b-pillar hoop. I am getting rid of the stock rear spreaders

 

[DutchVDub]

Well, I decided to not do anything at all like I drew up on PaintCAD.

And here is a shot of the stock tube thickness for all those that doubt the stock cage is a good base, at least on YJ's.

 

[DutchVDub]

Got some more work done on the cage today. I might add a few more bars in, mainly I'm thinking one just above the tailgate between the tow rear spreaders. Then I am also thinking of adding in two bars that go from the corner of the B-pillar hoop and don to the harness bar. I also need to cut the holes in the floor and add in the extensions to tie it into the frame. Lastly, once I get my suspension seats I'll have to add in some "floor" bars to mount them to. Other than that though the cage is done and ready to be welded.

I added a few more bars to the rear, mainly for looks.

I also added in some bars to tie the B and C pillars together down low.

View from the front.

How they all match up on top.

Here is what I had left over in scrap after building the cage thus far, I also have most of a stick left over that I only had to cut the harness bar from.

Then while moving it out of the driveway I decided I needed to make a trip to the fuel station.

And now it sits in my frshly cleaned up garage ready to be welded inside and safe from the snow we're supposed to get tomorrow.

Good news too, I just scored a 15KW 220V garage heater for 100$ that I'll hopefully be able to get installed this week. That'll make life in the garage a lot nicer during the winter months. Its not this exact one, but similar. Rated at around 50,000 BTU's!!!

http://www.shophmac.com/electromode-eul15b23c.html

 

[xj-grin]

you should get it installed before Tuesday! brrrrrr.

 

[DutchVDub]

Supposed to get 3" tomorrow with a high of 22*F here, I'm actually getting the heater tomorrow so if its not too cold I'll put it in. Otherwise I'll just start welding on the cage, something about welding keeps me warm.

 

[xj-grin]

They're talking about a high at my house on Tuesday of -8.... BTW, looks great man - I can't believe you've been that efficient with materials first time around. Nice work!

 

[eflores]

Looks good except for the giant "snatch block" maybe of death

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Looks good except for the giant "snatch block" maybe of death

I imagine that got "liberated" from one of those jolly green giants Dutch works on for a living........ Dutch, you've got one huge snatch........

 

[DutchVDub]

Lol yeah, the snatch block came from an old 800series 5ton wrecker we sent out to DRMO, it was the smallest one in that trucks BII. Just wait until you see my new taillights, you thought the HMMWV ones on my XJ were sweet? These will rock your socks off.

 

[DutchVDub]

Well nothing done to the Jeep, but it is 70deg in my garage now.

 

[jimgrms]

Dutch don,t know about co but the pvc isn,t national elec code legal when exposed, It may make your homeowners insurance null and void . Just saying

 

[DutchVDub]

As per the UL PVC conduit is acceptable for indoor and outdoor when exposed to weather or sunlight..

1.4 Schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit and fittings are for aboveground use indoors or outdoors exposed to sunlight and weather, and for underground use by direct burial or encasement in concrete. Schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit, elbows, and other bends that are specifically marked for underground use are suitable for use underground only by direct burial or encasement in concrete.

Also, as per the 2008 NEC:

PVC conduit can be used exposed indoor is "wet" locations such as garages and laundry rooms. It cannot be used exposed in living spaaces except for basements or areas that have limited or restrictive access.

I can get you the actual code number if you want Jim. I appreciate your concern but I did research to make sure that when I added in the sub-panel and extra outlets to my garage that i was doing so in a legitimate manner. I also made sure that I can un-do all of it easily so if/when I decide to move I can take it all with me.

 

[jimgrms]

I'm sure your right ,I have been retired for 10 years and code proably changed just though i would mention it in case

 

[DutchVDub]

No, I apppreciate it. It made me look things up again, no harm in that. I actually just learned the ULC part today as I was trying to find the NEC on it again. When my desktop crashed I lost the files I had with a scanned copy of the 2008 NEC in them. I actually had to call a buddy of mine back up because it was his book we scanned.

Of course there is a 2011 NEC out now and with my luck they've completely banned PVC from being used anywhere near a residential structure unless its coated with a platinum based gold resin that cost 1,000$ a quart.

 

[jimgrms]

Nah the resin price went up :>{)))

 

[DutchVDub]

Built my front driveshaft, just need to add some grease fittings so I can keep it full of GAA. Once I find a 1350 driveshaft to rob yokes off of I'll build a rear one too.

I used 2.5" 1/4wall receiver tube for the female shaft and 2" 1/4 wall box tube for the male shaft. I used the female splined yoke in the larger receiver tube because it was a bigger yoke and fit better for welding. All I did was pull the grease cab off the end and set the yoke inside the receiver tube, then I welded it. For the yoke going into the 2" tubing I cut the driveshaft about 2" down from the factory weld, then I sliced off the remaining outer tube up to the weld. Then I used a cut-off wheel and grinder to make it square and a tight fit into the 2" tubing. Once that was done it was welded.

 

[jimgrms]

Aren't those shafts gonna be a beyatch to ballance ???