Gotlift01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Dutch, have you thought about using any seam sealer on your wheels where you welded on them? Works good to prevent any leaks.
A peak at what a certain traitor has been up to
- Thread starter DutchVDub
- Start date
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
i want like an inch or 3/4 for gussets for my cage
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
1.5" should still be fine for that, just means your gussets will be a bit bigger. You'd still only be looking at a 2-3" x 2-3" gusset anyways. Personally though I've grown to prefer using a piece of 1" OD tubing for my gussets. No sharp edges to scrape yourself on that way.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
So this is what happens when you try tightening the bolts to 20ft/lbs on a 3/16 thick outer beadlock ring when the anti-cone rings aren't tall enough. I got about 1/4 of the way through and decided that I wasn't cool with it at all so I took it back off.
Now I'm bolting them all together to get it flat again (the coned one is the second one up from the bottom).
My friend's 1/4" thick outer rings on his copperhead fab kit didn't cone this much and he torqued his down to 50 ft/lbs w/o anti-cone rings.
Anybody have a good rule of thumb on how tall the anti-cone ring should be in relation to the thickness of the tire's lip? My 42" Irok has about a 1" thick lip. My current anti-cone rings are about 1/2" tall. I was thinking I need another 1/4" to make it 3/4" total on the anti-cone ring.
Now I'm bolting them all together to get it flat again (the coned one is the second one up from the bottom).
My friend's 1/4" thick outer rings on his copperhead fab kit didn't cone this much and he torqued his down to 50 ft/lbs w/o anti-cone rings.
Anybody have a good rule of thumb on how tall the anti-cone ring should be in relation to the thickness of the tire's lip? My 42" Irok has about a 1" thick lip. My current anti-cone rings are about 1/2" tall. I was thinking I need another 1/4" to make it 3/4" total on the anti-cone ring.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
I wouldn't be as upset of the anti-cone ring issue if it weren't for a few things.
1) In my first posting and PM in regards to ordering a set I specified what tires and rims (by brand) I was running.
2) On the website when you go to buy the anti-cone rings it states in the description its a FULL set for 4 rims.
3) there is no mention of exactly how tall they'll wind up or even a referance chart to specify an optimum anti-cone ring height to tire bead/lip thickness ratio.
4) the only options on the site for when you go purchase these is for the rim diameter, nothing to request a specific height to acccount for different tire thicknesses.
1) In my first posting and PM in regards to ordering a set I specified what tires and rims (by brand) I was running.
Ok, I'll be ready to order these on Monday. How much for a set of 5 w/ anti-cone rings?
I've got 17" steel wheels made by Unique and I'm running 42x14 bias ply Iroks. I'd like to do 5 so my spare will match.
I'm thinking a simplistic punk skull like this (feeel free to change it up a bit, this was a quick sketch i did on paint):
I'd like there to be either circles or 5 point stars (if you could do nautical stars that would e even better) between them. I'd kind of like to see a rendering of both so I can make my decision.
Shipped to 80504
Thanks
2) On the website when you go to buy the anti-cone rings it states in the description its a FULL set for 4 rims.
3) there is no mention of exactly how tall they'll wind up or even a referance chart to specify an optimum anti-cone ring height to tire bead/lip thickness ratio.
4) the only options on the site for when you go purchase these is for the rim diameter, nothing to request a specific height to acccount for different tire thicknesses.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Here was my solution to the coning issue. I chopped up the 1/4" square rod I got at Home Depot and welded it on top of the non-anti-coning rings. Broght the height up to about 3/4".
I proceeded to tighten all the bolts down as tight as my SnapOn 3/8" dr cordless impact would go. The outer rings are comletely in contact with the raised up anti-coning rings and as you can see there isn't any coning now.
I aired the tire up to 20psi and so far after about 2hrs its still there.
I proceeded to tighten all the bolts down as tight as my SnapOn 3/8" dr cordless impact would go. The outer rings are comletely in contact with the raised up anti-coning rings and as you can see there isn't any coning now.
I aired the tire up to 20psi and so far after about 2hrs its still there.
- Location
- Brighton, CO
Glad you got it figured out. That a ton of work to save some cabbage, but the wheels look good.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Well, its been 24hrs and its still at 20psi so I should be g2g for the other 3.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
Finally got them all done and mounted
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
I like the new color
xj-grin
NAXJA Member #1096
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
yes, I've been meaning to paint my heap "tarp blue"...
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
its actually a SUV car cover and it works pretty well. I don't have uppers for the 1/2 doors so there w/o the cover it wouldn't be sealed agains the elements. After this weekend I'll probably move it back in the though. I've just needed the space lately.
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
I'm tired of boatsides so I decided to start working on my suspension changes.
New axle location?
Ready to be linked?
Hells no!!!!!
Everything under the tape will be cut off and then a section of 1/4" wall 2x2 box tubing will be inserted into the frame where the tape is. The box tubing will extend back approx 4" past the current end of the frame with the shackle bushing at the end of it. A new crossmember will be made from the same box tubing to replace my current angle iron one.
The painted dot represents where the new frame side leafspring mount will go. I'm going to find some tubing with the proper ID to fit the spring eye into and weld it into the frame to make the spring mount. (I stole the idea from ActionFab, thanks buddy)
I busted out the old abacus and figured that this will give me a 115" WB (leaving the front axle location the same, just moving the spring higher) and should put my shackle angle at about 45deg. That should lower me down about 4" and keep my frame rails about 24" above the ground. On the front I'm just going to move the spring and shackle mounts up 4" vertically, at least for now. I might try frenching a spring slider into the frame as part of a shackle reversal, or I might move the spring back 2" on the frame and then redrill the centerpin hole 2" forward. That would put my tire just past the front shackle. For now I'm just focusing on the rear.
New axle location?
Ready to be linked?
Hells no!!!!!
Everything under the tape will be cut off and then a section of 1/4" wall 2x2 box tubing will be inserted into the frame where the tape is. The box tubing will extend back approx 4" past the current end of the frame with the shackle bushing at the end of it. A new crossmember will be made from the same box tubing to replace my current angle iron one.
The painted dot represents where the new frame side leafspring mount will go. I'm going to find some tubing with the proper ID to fit the spring eye into and weld it into the frame to make the spring mount. (I stole the idea from ActionFab, thanks buddy)
I busted out the old abacus and figured that this will give me a 115" WB (leaving the front axle location the same, just moving the spring higher) and should put my shackle angle at about 45deg. That should lower me down about 4" and keep my frame rails about 24" above the ground. On the front I'm just going to move the spring and shackle mounts up 4" vertically, at least for now. I might try frenching a spring slider into the frame as part of a shackle reversal, or I might move the spring back 2" on the frame and then redrill the centerpin hole 2" forward. That would put my tire just past the front shackle. For now I'm just focusing on the rear.
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YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
Troy, you used the word "was" twice. Is compesator no longer?
xj-grin
NAXJA Member #1096
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
he takes a little blue pill, so he had to rename it?
YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
It's still the Compensator....... Getting work done to it now actually. :thumbup:
DutchVDub
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milliken, CO
I've talked to a lot of guys that wheel in Utah, Nevada, Arizona, and Johnson Valley. 117-120" seems pretty magical. I don't want to be that long. My larger tire size and 24" belly height will help keep me from going all turtle. Being able to do front digs and using cutting brakes will allow me to still make tight turns. Mike's already witnessed me doing that on Fireman's Hill to make all of those hairpins in 1 shot.
