77' Ford HP44 questions

GudaXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Richmond, Va
Okay.. so I scored a hp dana 44 out of a 77 ford 150. I havn't had a chance to look at the axles in person, but from what i've seen in the past I think where the ford radius arms go are cast. The setup i had in mind was tnt y link to this axle. Question... is it possible to weld to cast if it is? and whats the process(preheat, weld, cool slowly)? I want to keep it full width, but just trying to figure out how i'm going to do the brackets. Thanks in advance!
 
If it is a 77 they will be welded.

All my brackets are welded to the cast mounts(79) and work fine. But you have to have someone that knows what they are doing weld the cast for you.
 
Prepmech said:
check out TnT's HP44 conversion kit. I used it on mine and it is awesome, makes the swap really easy.
Do you have any pictures of what you did for a track bar?
Im thinking about getting the TnT truss, but am not sure what to do about the track bar.
 
Starboard M said:
Do you have any pictures of what you did for a track bar?
Im thinking about getting the TnT truss, but am not sure what to do about the track bar.


Here is what Matt (from TNT Customs) and I came up for my HP 44 build. I am sure they are selling them now in production. I also included pictures of the new upper trackbar mount that I think they have in production. All of the items I am showing was designed for a high steer application. If you have any questions feel free to PM me. Matt from TNT and I spent some time designing a set up that would work for a high steer application and you should be able to purchase everything you need. The Trackbar bracket that goes onto the axle side fits over your truss and is welded on at least 8 sides for maximum strength.
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silly question about this truss kit from TNT. With a full-width D44, and this kit welded on... is the axle going to be centered without shortening the tubes? I'm doing my research into running full width axles. I figure if I'm going beefier I may as well go wider too. But I don't want my XJ to look funny by having one wheel sticking out further than the other. This TNT kit looks like just what a guy like me needs IF I don't have to cut tubes to recenter.
 
why would you have to cut the tubes to recenter?

The driveline can handle some degree of angle. I'm running a full width D60 and my front DS angles a little to the drivers side. No big deal, still runs down the road and the axle is centered.
 
*shrug* I'm new to solid axles. Didn't know if this TnT kit kept the axle centered as I read somewhere that you cut more off one side than the other to get stock width.
 
bcsavage said:
*shrug* I'm new to solid axles. Didn't know if this TnT kit kept the axle centered as I read somewhere that you cut more off one side than the other to get stock width.

I don't remember the exact numbers, but I believe it was if you cut it down to fit waggy axles, then it would be offset 0.66". I don't remember where I read it, but it's on here somewhere.
 
so for all intensive purposes, I manage to get me a HP D44 for the front, buy the TnT kit, weld it on, bolt her up and away I go? Sounds too good to be true. Or do I still have to worry about caster angles ie: cutting and rewelding inner knuckles?
 
Yeah, you get the axle, weld it up and bolt it in.

The pinion angle may not be correct with the lift you are running but that isn't a big deal in the front, especially as the 44 will have hubs. Idealy you would cut and rotate the C's to get the correct pinion angle as well as caster but lots of people run them without doing that.
 
bcsavage said:
Or do I still have to worry about caster angles ie: cutting and rewelding inner knuckles?
Would this matter on how much lift you have I mean if you stay around 3" to 5" of lift you should be good right becouse this is were I am confused about the D44 swap.
 
bcsavage said:
silly question about this truss kit from TNT. With a full-width D44, and this kit welded on... is the axle going to be centered without shortening the tubes? I'm doing my research into running full width axles. I figure if I'm going beefier I may as well go wider too. But I don't want my XJ to look funny by having one wheel sticking out further than the other. This TNT kit looks like just what a guy like me needs IF I don't have to cut tubes to recenter.

No the kit was actual designed to run full width. The axle will only be off of center if you shorten it different lengths on each axle tube to match waggy axles. If you shortened it to use waggy axle shafts you would hve to take of 3.11 inches on the drivers side and 1.79 inches on the passenger side. Which is 1.32 inches difference. SO you would split that difference and be .66 inches towards the drivers side. That is why in my write up I shortend both sides 2.45 inches to keep the axle centered and not track .66" off.
 
bcsavage said:
so for all intensive purposes, I manage to get me a HP D44 for the front, buy the TnT kit, weld it on, bolt her up and away I go? Sounds too good to be true. Or do I still have to worry about caster angles ie: cutting and rewelding inner knuckles?

If you plan on running full width setting your resetting your caster is totally up to you. I shortened mine so I set my caster to 5 degrees which made it drive like a dream. I did not change my caster on my dana 30 and it had a tendency to wander with the slightest of ruts. I think alot depends on how much lift you have and what ride quality you want.

With the axle cleaned and ready to install TNT's kit it took me about an hour to install everything and have it ready to bolt in.

Here is the link to my build:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=907435
 
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