6.0 LS Swap

[JeremyB]

The headers, mounts and oil level plug came in from Novak.

Installed the mounts and test fit the headers.


Cleaned the headers with acetone.


Baked at 250 degrees for 30 minutes.


Took one out at a time and coated with VHT High Temp header paint wile it was still hot so it would bake the paint.


Reinstalled the headers with 1/8" bead of Permatex Ultra Black high temp RTV.

 

[streetxj]

Can't wait to see the videos of the finished project.

 

[JeremyB]

Today I was able to finally get some work done. First I removed the engine and tranny. Then removed the main harness and started removing unnecessary wires. NOT fun at all! My plan is to try and use the factory gauges (I have not seen a wright up where anyone had success) and mount both ECUs in the passenger area and fender tuck all of the wires.

 

[yossarian19]

Reminds me of the fun I had wiring my truck. Take your time, try to plan out where wires will be routed, try to only do it once. If you start rushing, you'll regret it.

 

[JeremyB]

Reminds me of the fun I had wiring my truck. Take your time, try to plan out where wires will be routed, try to only do it once. If you start rushing, you'll regret it.

Very good advise. Time to go wash the engine bay while the Sun is out. Then get back to the harnesses.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Hope you have better luck with stock gauges than the rest have. Seems to be a sensor/signal issue between the GM and heep harnesses.

 

[JeremyB]

Hope you have better luck with stock gauges than the rest have. Seems to be a sensor/signal issue between the GM and heep harnesses.

My plan is to add the Jeep water temp and oil pressure sensors to the 6.0 and use the Jeep harness as a stand alone harness not tied in to the GM PCM and use the Novak tach emulator to make the Jeep PCM think the 4.0 is still in there. We will see if it works?

 

[Team Willys]

You can get the stock gauges to work just fine. It's in my LS2 XJ build thread. You can even keep the stock shifters and console if you want. You can leave everything inside 100% stock appearing so you would never know it had a different engine until you turn the key.

 

[JeremyB]

You can get the stock gauges to work just fine. It's in my LS2 XJ build thread. You can even keep the stock shifters and console if you want. You can leave everything inside 100% stock appearing so you would never know it had a different engine until you turn the key.

Thank you. I'm reading your thread now.

 

[John D]

I'm happy my gauges didn't work out and I have grown to like it much more than I thought I would. I like the orange too

 

[JeremyB]

Still working on the harness at night. But I have made some progress. I test fit the engine to see where I want the harness to enter the cab and see where I could run the fuel lines. Very tight, but she fits. I am VERY glad I did not waste my time trying to make engine mounts. Novak did a great job on these and well worth the money. I got the bay clean and started painting.

Has any one used the Novak Fuel System Integration Kit?
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/fuel_system/tj_xj_fuel_module.htm

 

[yossarian19]

The Cherokee fuel pump, once you gut it's internal regulator, should support the 6.0. Probably not if you add heads or a cam, but IIRC it does have the pressure / volume capacity for a stock Vortec motor.
So now your main problem is how to get return fuel to the tank.
You can use a 2002 Silverado fuel filter or a 2002 Camaro LS1 fuel filter, either one works, and use your engine's fuel pressure regulator that came on the rail.
If you can make the return line happen, I think you are good to go.

 

[JeremyB]

The Cherokee fuel pump, once you gut it's internal regulator, should support the 6.0. Probably not if you add heads or a cam, but IIRC it does have the pressure / volume capacity for a stock Vortec motor.
So now your main problem is how to get return fuel to the tank.
You can use a 2002 Silverado fuel filter or a 2002 Camaro LS1 fuel filter, either one works, and use your engine's fuel pressure regulator that came on the rail.
If you can make the return line happen, I think you are good to go.

Thank you.

 

[John D]

I have that kit without that giant gold bulb in the middle, but you can buy the Corvette filter WIX 33737 (which regulates your fuel) for $34 on Amazon and make the return line for less than $20 at NAPA. I can't remember exactly how I returned to the tank, but I think I just drilled a hole in the top of the sender/pump mount and added a nipple. I will look Friday when I get home and let you know. I think others have gutted the Jeep regulator with good results too.
Edit: the Jeep pump will get you by too. I just recently upgraded mine after running the stock pump for the past four years or so.

 

[XJEEPER]

That's one sexy beast! I'm visualizing this under the hood of my silver 2000 XJ......I can even hear the throaty roar of the LS as I crest the dune and launch into the next bowl.......

Crap...fantasy over. I still have an 187,000 mile 4.0 under the hood......back to LS Swap Tech. I'm seriously rethinking the buildup of the 4.0 on the stand in my garage........

 

[JeremyB]

That's one sexy beast! I'm visualizing this under the hood of my silver 2000 XJ......I can even hear the throaty roar of the LS as I crest the dune and launch into the next bowl.......

Crap...fantasy over. I still have an 187,000 mile 4.0 under the hood......back to LS Swap Tech. I'm seriously rethinking the buildup of the 4.0 on the stand in my garage........

Thanks. In all of the XJ's I've built the one thing I always wanted was more power. Reliable power. So this XJ build Im starting with this first, and I can't wait!

 

[JeremyB]

Ok... I have the Jeep harness modified and the factory gages work other than the tach due to the fact I have not ordered the Tach Emulator from Novak. The big issue is I was only able to remove about 25% of the Jeep harness due to keeping the Jeep PCM. Wow that PCM controls everything! I wanted to hide the wires and have a very clean install, this will not be possible if I keep the Jeep cluster. I have to make a decision as to have the factory gauges work or a clean engine bay? I'm thinking about running a tablet with the Torque app until I have the money for aftermarket gauges.

 

[jamiemac]

How much room would You say the Novak engine mounts leave between the engine and firewall? Is it possible to make mounts to push the ngine further back, or has Novak pretty much got as far back as possible?

 

[JeremyB]

How much room would You say the Novak engine mounts leave between the engine and firewall? Is it possible to make mounts to push the ngine further back, or has Novak pretty much got as far back as possible?

The Novak mounts are adjustable. It's about 1 1/2" from the firewall. I have it in the middle of the mounts, I can go forward or back 1/2".

 

[yossarian19]

Do you think you could get the Vortec mechanical fan in between the radiator & motor?
Also -
Consider cutting & "stretching" your gauge wires so you can run the Jeep PCM under the dash somewhere, using one of the factory wiring passages. Use solder for the splices and you won't mess up your signals. Might not be worth the effort but it would get the Jeep PCM & some of the wiring out of the engine bay.
I'm jealous of this thing already. Someday, someday...