5.3 Vortec California Legal Swap

[clydefrog]

So this is my first post, and a build thread in one. I started with a 1987 Cherokee base with a 5 speed and over 300,000 miles on it. It has been in my family since it was almost new. I learned how to drive stick in it almost 15 years ago so it does retain some sentimental value.

I wanted to post up my build so someone else could have some good technical info on doing this sort of swap. There are countless swaps on the net where people have put LS motors in XJ's, however, to the best of my knowledge (please correct me if I am wrong) no one has done it and made it California smog legal. For those of you who have done the swap, one headache and challenge i had to face was using an exhaust manifold that carried a carb stamp on it (carb = California Air Resource Board) and have dual factory cats that where no greater than 6" downstream of the manifolds. Like i said, many headaches (this is just one example). I will tr to cover the unique mods specific to California as best as I can.

Here is the before (sitting in my parents field for 3 plus years):

And here is where I am at currently:

Let me back up a bit. I built this rig for heavy off-roading (not much crawling), freeway driving and towing. A lot of extended expedition trips. So most of this build has been geared toward these goals. Here is what i have so far:

-2004 Chevy Silverado 5.3 Vortec with 4l60E transmission
-Factory Jeep NP231 with SYE and Novak cable shifter
-Custom drive shaft
-Ford 8.8 with drum brakes and 3.73 gearing and stock LSD
-D30 up front with true trac
-Rough country long arm kit with sway bar disconnects
-Rubicon express long AAL in the rear 4.5"
-Rubicon Express springs 3.5" plus a 5/8 spacer
-Rubicon express trackbar
-Quadratec 7.0 hydro shocks all around (not a fan of nitros or anything too stiff)
-SS Rough Country extended brake lines
-30" Hancooks on 15x8 procomps with 3.75" BS (prolly going to go with a 32" when these wear out)

That is pretty much it for the drive train, i will cover the little tidbits further in the post.

I spent a lot of time on this thing and constantly am being asked about it so i feel that i should share. Enjoy.

 

[clydefrog]

I need to snap some current pics, here is where she was at 2 weeks ago. Running the Novak engine mounts, advanced adapters transfer case/transmission mount and SYE, custom built rear trans mount and Novak radiator. I am running CARB certified pace setter headers that are highly modified, factory cats with a magnaflow muffler. Running 2.5" exhaust. Spectre intake which is CARB certified which will be in a water tight box hooked up to my snorkel (snorkel mainly for cold air and looks for now ). For wiring i am running a painless kit for the whole interior (rewired the WHOLE Jeep) and a Howell kit for the engine. Factory ECU mounted where the Renix ecu was located. Engine is DBW so TAC control is mounted under dash as well. I upgraded my cluster to the style that has gauges instead of lights and added a transmission cooler gauge. Also running an Ultra Gauge so i can compare the GM readings to the Jeeps readings (only difference is Jeep speedo is cable driven AFTER the transfer case and the GM pickup is electric BEFORE the transfer case, not really an issue since when i am in 4lo i am manually shifting anyways. Water temp tapped into opposite head that GM temp is tapped. Oil pressure tapped into oil housing (pics to come of both). Trans cooler tapped into pan.

Running a '96 XJ p/s pump with a BMW p/s reservoir. Both my p/s and transmission fluids are cooled via heyden coolers. Running the stock 'problematic' early Jeep coolant reservoir. And yes i have both air conditioning AND a second compressor mounted for on board air. All accessories mounted to KWIK Performance mounts.

Stock Jeep fuel tank and pump. modified the whole EVAP system to match that of the Chevy (pretty much has every single GM evap component).

Here are a few pictures:

I have a balsa core/carbon fiber reverse scoop fabbed up in my garage, just got to finish it and paint it before the rain.

Had to modify the KWIK mount to accept the Jeep p/s pump

Transmission mount:

Aluminum brackets mounted to factory Renix ECU mount to accommodate the GM ECU/TCM:

On the stand:

When i got her ~4mo ago:

 

[clydefrog]

Advanced adapters 4l60E to NP231 adapter:

New transfer case input gear installed, old one on the left.

SYE kit (nothing special). Old input on the far left, new one installed, not much difference, just different diameters and spline count to match the GM 4l60e.

Worse part of all, removing the pedal the separates the enthusiasts from the commuters. It had to be done to make it smog legal. Also, you can see the Painless fuse box.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Nice.
Not sure of any pre-96 CARB legal LSx XJ's, but I know Hoooper's late model LSx XJ is legal.
I thought I knew one or 2 more including an MJ, but not sure on that.
I am hoping to get into the LSx swap with both my renix XJ and MJ. If I stay auto in my XJ, I am thinking I want to run a 6L80-e if I can get a 6.0/6.2+6L80-e combo for a reasonable price.

 

[sidewaysstarion]

I'm curious to know what modifications you had to do in order to get all of the evap stuff hooked up. Also do you have any pictures of what you had to do to your headers?

 

[clydefrog]

More pictures coming soon.

For the Evap: I purchased the carbon canister, fuel tank vent valve and fuel tank pressure sensor for a Chevy silverado that was the same year as the motor. The motor came with the purge solenoid. I hooked the purge solenoid up to the jeep metal line that goes back to the tank, however at the tank it is disconnected and goes to the carbon canister. The vent lines at the top of the tank go from the tank to the fuel vent valve, and from the vent valve to the carbon canister. The fuel tank pressure sensor is tapped and glued into the top of the tank.

So basically it mimics the factory Chevy setup. I also purchesed a smog decal for the Chevy (coded to the VIN of the motor) which shows how everything is supposed to be routed. I will post some more pictures of everything later today.

BTW, after working all the little kinks out (and there where ALOT of them) i feel that this engine/trans setup is perfect for the XJ. In OD it will cruise up even slight grades at over 70mph if you want it too. Also so far my fuel mileage is roughly 22mpg on the freeway and about 16mpg around town (and this is with a semi heavy foot).

 

[clydefrog]

Pictures of my header/cat setup coming soon. Also i will have the pictures coming of the shifter setup, went with a Winters Sidewinder shifter (designed for the 4L60E) mated to a custom fiberglass console that I made to house the shifter, transfer case lever and a custom cell phone holder with chargers.

Here is how I chose to cool the beast:

As I stated before, Novak radiator, stock a/c condenser, Hayden trans cooler and I threw in a Hayden p/s cooler just in case. I am currently running two Spal fans, a low profile one and (the most expensive 11" one they sell) a high output fan. Temps stay pegged at 204f but will creep to 215 if i get on it for extended periods of time (unless im doing 60mph+ then it never reaches 215. Trans stays at 150 and will creep too 180 when I am stationary which is odd. No status on towing temps (wont be towing more that 4,000lbs). p/s seems fine.

Battery, heater hose and a/c line setup. Yes I kept the 'problematic' expansion tank. I always carry a spare and it has never failed me in the 300k plus miles that the 4.0 was in there. If you maintain it and replace it as maintenance than it is fine:

Had to sacrifice a few inches of tire-stuffing room for the battery tray. As of now there is a sheet metal barrier and it is water tight (pics to come I swear).

Pic without the mess of all the hoses.

Painless wiring install. Also forgot to mention that I stripped the interior carpet and headliner, replaced it and added some sound/heat barrier. The whole Jeep practically got an overhaul.

Also put in new door seals and a tailgate seal. Apparently I plan to take this thing through a river. The whole interior is new except the door panels and the seats, the Wife likes the seats and she drives a bimmer so if they are good enough for her then they are good enough for me.

 

[clydefrog]

I would also like to add; although these are my first posts I have been on this forum for a couple of years now, don't know why I didn't post or get an account prior to this. I got a lot of helpful info from both Frank Z's build thread and John D's. So thank you.

Here she is at Burning Man 2014 for kicks:

 

[PhotoJared]

Currently doing this swap. Thanks for posting details on the EVAP setup. I wasn't sure how I was going to work it yet.

 

[clydefrog]

I will post some pics. Also I mounted the factory Chevy throttle (DBW). I will post some pics of that too. All the pics of the hard technical fab stuff is coming. Word of advise: get a Long Arm kit. You will save yourself tons of headaches. Also I will get the model of the headers that I used, I paid my local muffler shop about $600 modifying them so they would fit.

 

[yossarian19]

Where in Nor-Cal are you?
Also - $600 to modify headers? Damn. Are Novak's not 50-state legal? And WTF is up with our state when you can spend $600 chopping up and modifying a CARB header, which stays legal, but just throwing a different tube steel header on there without the sticker isn't?

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Where in Nor-Cal are you?
Also - $600 to modify headers? Damn. Are Novak's not 50-state legal? And WTF is up with our state when you can spend $600 chopping up and modifying a CARB header, which stays legal, but just throwing a different tube steel header on there without the sticker isn't?

I think Hoooper discussed this at some point, that he modded LS3 manis to keep it legal. In, theory the Novak (or whomever) could be, but that costs money. And, they probably do not want to pay that.

 

[clydefrog]

Where in Nor-Cal are you?
Also - $600 to modify headers? Damn. Are Novak's not 50-state legal? And WTF is up with our state when you can spend $600 chopping up and modifying a CARB header, which stays legal, but just throwing a different tube steel header on there without the sticker isn't?

In in between Auburn and Grass Valley, you may see it cruising on hwy 49 if your in NC.

And yes, spent almost $1k on the headers (cera-kote, headers plus modifying them, they are sweet though, s**t looks OE. The Novaks are only 49 state legal.

 

[yossarian19]

Hahah no kidding? I live just off Dog Bar near McKnight.
Bummer the Novak's aren't 50-state.
Let me know back channel if I can give you a hand - and make sure to bring it to Cars & Coffee when you are done.

 

[clydefrog]

Hahah no kidding? I live just off Dog Bar near McKnight.
Bummer the Novak's aren't 50-state.
Let me know back channel if I can give you a hand - and make sure to bring it to Cars & Coffee when you are done.

Been wanting to go to Cars & Coffee. FYI the jeep is semi-done. I have been driving it for a month or so (so if you see an XJ pitched sideways accelerating down 49 then that's me, shes fast). I'm going to guess around 350hp at the crank (only mods are headers, intake and a tune, plus im about 2,000lbs lighter than the Silverado....roughly). Still working out some small kinks here and there plus i need to finish the hood scoop. I will def go before the end of the year.

 

[clydefrog]

The shifter:

Test fitting, its a Novak cable conversion on the NP231 and a Winters desert racing shifter designed for the 4L60E. I thought about adapting an OEM shifter but i really like the look of the Winters shifter, plus its plug and play.

Cut out the tunnel a bit and added some sheet metal to make the shiter sit a bit lower (i was anal about the shifter location, didn't want it too high, plus it had to clear the e-brake and the radio set up). The white part is the sheet metal i fabricated.

Balsa core for the console, fiber glassed it and painted it afterward, wanted something simple:

All finished. That's an Icom ham radio (IC 2200h) and a Baufung ham radio, both tied into separate antennas on the roof. Dual USB ports and a 12v socket. Plus a cell phone holder. Pretty much no where in the US where i cant be in contact with someone.

Trans temp gauge:

Led light bar control (front and rear):

Rear defrost and engine driven compressor for on board air:

Ultragauge. Also, did a conversion on the cluster (while the 4.0 was still in) to include gauges instead of idiot lights. Rewired the whole Jeep so all the wiring for the cluster was done by me, and yes i chose to keep the e-brake warning and seat belt warning lights. Also since the cluster i used was from a newer model XJ it had the provision for a check engine light so i wired that up to the GM ECU. I currently have a code for the knock sensor as one of them is faulty, hence why it is illuminated. The RPM gauge was the only gauge i had trouble with, i ended up boosting the signal to a higher voltage via a jumper wire tied into the fuel gauge power and a resistor. It work perfect except its off by about 200 rpm's at lower speeds and 500 rpm's at higher speeds (ei the engine redlines at 5,500 rpm's but the gauge shows about 6,000 rpms when it shifts). The scan gauge is spot on though:

 

[clydefrog]

Cooling woes.

Current setup that WORKS. Novak radiator, dual Spal high output 11" fans, new condenser, Hayden p/s cooler (p/n401) and dual Hayden tranny coolers (p/n 403 & 404). Factory GM thermostat and water pump coupled with the stock Jeep expansion tank. I run a European auto repair shop and ALL the Euro cars run an expansion tank so that's why i decided to keep the stock expansion tank. I can get p/n's to the hoses for anyone that needs them (finding ones that look factory was a pain, luckily i can order and return parts all day long due to my relationship with my vendors).

Heater core is run direct without a valve and the outlet is where i tied the expansion tank in. Steam line goes into the outlet side of the radiator. Temps run at 200ish in the 95 degree ambient temp and the fans rarely kick on (currently have them set to come on at 210 which is RARE and off at 200) They don't even have to kick on in light traffic. One of the Spal fans is wired to come on with the a/c. Trans temps run at ~150ish and will creep to ~180 when i tow my 23' sailboat.

Originally i was battling an overheat problem, started with two cheap Amazon fans, then upgraded to 1 Spal and 1 Cheap fan. Ended up with 2 Spal fans and just about everything else changed in the cooling system, still was getting temps up in the 215-220 range going uphill with really high under hood temps. Towing was not an option. Discovered that my original condenser was the culprit. Clogged with bugs from the '80s and having seen over 300k miles i swapped it out with a new one.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! I can go uphill all day long towing 4,000lbs at 60mph and 6,000 ft elevation in 95F outside temps with ZERO problems. All while running the a/c, gotta keep the dog, wife and kid happy.

 

[Shorty]

.... added some sheet metal to make the shiter sit a bit lower ...

amazing work, and I'm impressed even more that you've got a toilet in there too......:gee:

 

[clydefrog]

amazing work, and I'm impressed even more that you've got a toilet in there too......:gee:

Haha. Guess i should proofread. My wife was wondering why I was laughing so I showed her. She is cringing, she is an English teacher :lecture:.

 

[PhotoJared]

Looking forward to more info about the emissions compliance!