5.3 swap done cheap...ish

[blistovmhz]

Eyupper. Be liberal with the RTV, try to keep it all relatively even. Realistically though, I ****ed mine up in several spots and just hit it with more RTV, and as far as I can tell, no leaks. I didn't even torque to spec because I messed up a header bolt hole, so just went snug and called it a day.

 

[blistovmhz]

How long were you driving like that anyhow? Since day one? I'd imagine you lost a bit of power there due to the lack of back pressure, and were probably dumping a tonne of fuel to compensate for the leak. Did you ever check your fuel trims/LTFT's?

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

How long were you driving like that anyhow? Since day one? I'd imagine you lost a bit of power there due to the lack of back pressure, and were probably dumping a tonne of fuel to compensate for the leak. Did you ever check your fuel trims/LTFT's?

Its been like that since day 1. which has only been one wheeling trip and one time ripping around the neighborhood.
Unfortunately I didnt even know I could monitor the fuel trims until I read about it in your thread. I now have gauges setup for them in my torque.

On our wheeling trip I was running very rich. Thats what prompted me to fix the leak so i could start narrowing down my cause. hopefully the leak was the main issue.

How long do i need to drive it to get some accurate LTFT readings?

 

[blistovmhz]

Depends on conditions. LTFT I THINK (someone correct me if I'm wrong) is based on throttle % or RPM or something. Maybe based on load? All I know for sure is my LTFT at idle is very low around +2% per bank, while my LTFT at highway speeds is around +7.5% (which is a bit higher than I'd like, but I don't know these engines at all yet). At idle, while not moving, if I increase the RPM's, my FT/STFT stay around 0% as they should, but the LTFT increases immediately, which leads me to believe they're keyed to RPM or throttle.

My LTFT's seem to have stabilized after about 15-20 minutes of driving. From what I can tell, your LTFT will not get stored until you've used that amount of throttle for a certain amount of time. I say give it 30 minutes of bombing around town and you should probably have pretty solid numbers.

Also, some other really useful PID's that no one seems to talk about, are the TCC Slip RPM, Current Gear, Trans/Coolant temps,... and a few others. Make sure to add the predefined PID's for GM vehicles. You'll notice stuff the Trans temp (default) doesn't work, but the GM method 1/2 will both work (both part of the GM predefined PID's).

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I got the leaky header to seal up with the copper rtv. Thanks blistovmhz for the help on that.

Ill hopefully get some time to drive it around this weekend and check on my fuel trims and see ifi it makes a difference. im still seeing a weird reading on the bank2 o2 sensor.

My front driveline parts finally came in after a month. i went from a 1310 double cardan to a 1410 single joint. also stepped up from 1.375 splines to 1.5"
Ujoints will be here Friday so i can build the shaft.


Beef! One of my old slip yokes is on the right for comparison.

 

[blistovmhz]

What's bank2 doing?

And huzah on the larger joints! Where's that move your weak link?

I'm running two XJ front shafts right now (they're both well beaten) and holding off on doing something about it for a few reasons.
1. Weak link. I pretty much want my DS to break before anything else. Running chromoly shafts in both axles (d30/d44) with 4.56 gears and lunchbox. I figure that makes my R/P the weak link there, so I want my DS's weaker.
2. Still not sure I want to go to real axles. The only reason I'll ever break anything with my current setup, is too much torque. There is no amount of smashing into stuff that'll do any real damage with a 3500lbs Jeep (I don't think), so tonnes really aren't necessary in that regard. Tonnes do however, add some much needed un-sprung mass, but come at the cost of a big dumb pumpkin dragging on the ground. Even with a shaved d60/14b, I wouldn't have the clearance I have now. Of course, if my R/P don't hold up to the v8, I may not have any choice.

So, how do you get those yokes onto the tube straight? My front DS was my first attempt at shortening. It's drivable, but it's got some obvious wobble to it.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

What's bank2 doing?

Its just hovering around .6 volts. Bank one has a nice smooth bounce between 0.8 and 0.1

And huzah on the larger joints! Where's that move your weak link?

Probably my axle ujoints. i have chromoly 35 splice axles so they arent going anywhere. lol

I'm running two XJ front shafts right now (they're both well beaten) and holding off on doing something about it for a few reasons.
1. Weak link. I pretty much want my DS to break before anything else. Running chromoly shafts in both axles (d30/d44) with 4.56 gears and lunchbox. I figure that makes my R/P the weak link there, so I want my DS's weaker.
2. Still not sure I want to go to real axles. The only reason I'll ever break anything with my current setup, is too much torque. There is no amount of smashing into stuff that'll do any real damage with a 3500lbs Jeep (I don't think), so tonnes really aren't necessary in that regard. Tonnes do however, add some much needed un-sprung mass, but come at the cost of a big dumb pumpkin dragging on the ground. Even with a shaved d60/14b, I wouldn't have the clearance I have now. Of course, if my R/P don't hold up to the v8, I may not have any choice.

So, how do you get those yokes onto the tube straight? My front DS was my first attempt at shortening. It's drivable, but it's got some obvious wobble to it.
When building new shafts i tack everything as straight as i can then bolt it in the jeep and put my dial indicator on a mag base and spin the shaft against it and tap it in place until i get less than 0.020 of run-out. its usually less that a 5 minute job.

The xj shafts are my favorite to shorten! just chop it in the middle and sleeve the whole length with 1.75 dom! I have had great luck doing it that way. just make sure to keep your joints indexed correctly.

 

[blistovmhz]

Eyup. Damn good idea just tacking it and bolting up and let'r spin. Will try that when I build another set. Messed up one of my double cardans a bit (broke a cap retainer nub off) and both of my splined sections are pooched from too much water, not enough grease.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

FOR SALE or partial trade for utv

1990 xj clean title. Located in North Idaho
tubed front.
plated unibody
lexan rear windows
jazz 12 gal fuel cell with remote filler in rear window
baja ss seats
10" tablet mounted in RAMlock with Torque app for all gauges/music/navigation
viair compressor and train horns
big power steering cooler with dedicated 10" fan
derale tranny cooler with dedicated 10" fan
dual wilwood brake pedals and master cyclinders
-3 an stainless brake lines
passenger rear door is smashed a little but other than that sheet metal is pretty clean

Engine:

02 5.3
wait4me 3 wire harness
shaved truck intake
f-body oil pan and pickup
DirtyDingo accessory brackets
Griffin radiator with custom aluminum shroud and 16" fan
hooker shorty headers
2.5" into 3" exhaust with dynomax bullet muffler
trail gear full hydro pump
e1000 fuel pump. have a spare also.
everything is an lines and fittings. any flamable lines are ran in Firesleeve and end wrapped
runs killer.
Currently needs a knock sensor replaced. Swap was just done this past winter

Drivetrain:
Professionally rebuilt th350. b&m magnum pro stick shifter
Brand new 3.8 Atlas. literally has one trip on it. NWF cable shifters.
1410 front driveshaft
1350 rear driveshaft
1980s Ford high pinion king pin dana 60 front
-4.10 gears welded
-spicer 1410 yoke
-chromoly 35 spline outers with new joints
-SOLID drive flanges
-WFO truss
-trail gear 10" double ended ram
ford dana 70u rear
-4.10s welded
-disk brakes
-spicer 1350 yoke

Suspension:
front long arm style suspension. trail gear creeper joints
rear dual triangulated 4-link with creeper joints
profender rear air bumps
currie anti rock swaybar in the rear
FOA 16" coilovers. fronts are leaking and could use a rebuild.


five 42" bias pitbulls. all in great shape. very few runs. one has a vulcanized sidewall from a tiny pinch. Spare has never been ran.
five 20" ATX Alloy beadlocks
the wheels and tires were 6k new


here is the thread about the tube front/5.3 swap
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/1900969-tubed-front-5-3-th350-swap.html


17k OBO. could possibly work a deal with me keeping the motor. Located in North Idaho.

 

[blistovmhz]

WTF?! WHY?

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

WTF?! WHY?

Medical bills. :tear:

two years cancer free and Im still paying out my ass for it. I have only gotten to use the jeep once this year.

Im sure ill build another someday

 

[blistovmhz]

Aw dude! That's on par with a Greek tragedy. Giving up such a sweet-ass Jeep (my favourite thus far) to pay the crooked-ass medical system. I'm around $70 grand in, and still no diagnosis, AND I'm in Canada, where health care is supposedly free!

Hope it goes to a good home sir. I hope to see another build from you some day.

 

[blistovmhz]

Oh hay, before I forget about this epic build thread, do you know anyone who knows HEAPS about tuning, tuning hardware and software? I'm getting ridiculously pissed at the state of ECU tuning and hoping to track someone down who knows why everything is such crap. Seriously considering hiring a few programmers to write my own software and build my own data link cause this shit is crazy bad.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

Aw dude! That's on par with a Greek tragedy. Giving up such a sweet-ass Jeep (my favourite thus far) to pay the crooked-ass medical system. I'm around $70 grand in, and still no diagnosis, AND I'm in Canada, where health care is supposedly free!

Hope it goes to a good home sir. I hope to see another build from you some day.

Oh hay, before I forget about this epic build thread, do you know anyone who knows HEAPS about tuning, tuning hardware and software? I'm getting ridiculously pissed at the state of ECU tuning and hoping to track someone down who knows why everything is such crap. Seriously considering hiring a few programmers to write my own software and build my own data link cause this shit is crazy bad.

Thanks man.

Call wayne at 150tunes. probably one of the most knowledgable guys around for these motors. He is local to me and is killer to work with!