4wd and Studded Tires, can I stud just 2?

[fishinpolejoe]

This is probably a dumb question, and not a Jeep specific question, so I apologize in advance.

I have been considering some studded tires for my XJ. I realize that it would probably be a good idea to stud all four tires instead of only two. However, I just bought two new tires maybe 10,000 miles ago at most, and those two can't be studded. I really can't afford a whole new set and I was wondering if I could get away with having two new studded tires on the front and regular tires on the back without causing damage due to the minute size difference. Is it enough to make a difference?

You might be wondering why I would want two studded tires on the front of my XJ. For stopping/slowing down capability in snow and ice. I live in a mountainous area with steep hills and curves and my XJ has no ABS.

Our roads got bad here for the first time this season yesterday and I found myself on an icy back road delivering pizza. I geared down when needed of course, and to go down one very steep hill that was obviously slick, I put it in 4L/1st gear and had no problems. I really don't like the idea of using the 4wd every time I need to get down what might be a slippery surface though, and once you have started sliding it's too late. It would be nice to have those metal studs biting into the pavement under the weight of the motor to catch traction at those times. Advice?

 

[rockclimber]

I would put them on the rear, not the front.

but the minute size difference won't be noticeable on a slick surface.

 

[fishinpolejoe]

I would put them on the rear, not the front.

I can understand that. The rear would have a tendency to come around if the front had traction and the rear didn't now that I think about it.

Would you add weight to the back or leave it as is?

but the minute size difference won't be noticeable on a slick surface

Thank you for the advice.

 

[joejeep92]

Throw a couple of sand bags in the back for weight if you need to but yes you are better off having them in the rear imo.

 

[8Mud]

I guess it depends on whether you have ABS, the 231 or the 242 transfer? What you want to avoid is locking up any tire. The first tire to lock up is the direction of your skid, if the rears lock up first you are likely to swap ends quick.

I use chains on the rear. I keep a set of chains on a spare set of tires, use a small floor jack and a 12 volt electric impact wrench. Sounds involved, but in reality takes about 10 minutes or less. My issue is, it is interstate to and from my hunting lease and I only need the chains on the lease. A one hundred yard XJ toboggan ride down the side of a hill with a Duck pond at the bottom convinced me I had better get serious about some traction.

I was passenger when my buddy lost it on the ice. It was all pretty mild, until the end, when he ran head on into a vertical frozen dirt bank at around 30 MPH. Blew out both of my knees and fractured my eye socket. Those immovable objects are killers and it really doesn't take much speed.

Four wheel studs on skinny tires, ice is one situation where smaller is better. Nothing really beats chains, studs are the next best thing.

Fifty some years of driving on ice and snow and I only crashed once and that was on purpose. A tractor trailer was coming sideways down the interstate and I decided the safest spot was in the woods.

I don't know if you work on commision or are paid by the hour. But seriously, your boss should chip in for at least half the cost of a set of tires. There are some legal issues here. Insurance may refuse to pay, the policy may exclude using your vehicle for hire. Your boss could be liable, your lawyer is going to say you wouldn't have been there unless you were sent there. Hind sight is 20-20.

The reason for using an extra set of tires is chains tear up a tire. And you can install the chains with low pressure in the tire, then inflate it until the chains are drum tight and are unlikely to ever come loose. Keeping a chain repair kit handy is also smart.

The down side to studs is every so often a stud comes out of there like a rifle bullet. And they aren't quite as good on ice as chains.

 

[XJMartin]

Drove in Quebec for over 30 years, where everything is frozen more than half the year. Never used studs (they where illegal most of winter when I was living there), snow/ice tires and driving according to road conditions. I agree skinnier is better for snow and ice on legal roads. Use your better tires in the back, the lighter end will get away form you first, sand bags are also good in the back. Start slowing down earlier and keep brake pressure lighter than on normal pavement. Keep your sights further than you normally would.

As for using 4wd, with a 231, I keep it for when the snow is too thick to get going in 2wd. And I keep speed down when I suspect there is ice, it basicly boils down to what you are comfortable with, there is no magical formula that works for everyone, you have to feel confident and safe, simple as that.

That's my 2c, take what you want , leave the rest.

 

[WB9YZU]

No idea about studs are they are illegal where I live.

However, I have found that stock tire pressures are "not all that" in the Winter.

On dry pavement, sure, but for maximum grip on Ice/Snow, I've dropped to 26psi with no issue, and the traction improves.

I had a Chevy Colorado 2WD at work, at with 32psi I could barely get out of the parking lot safely, at 26psi, it was a whole new truck.

~Ron

 

[dcampbell98XJ]

Iv always kept my tire psi low on my cars and jeep for the snow and ice. Keep your speed down and eyes open. Downshifting will also help, but speed is going to be your enemy tell your boss that your life is more important then the pizza, so it gets there when it gets there.

 

[Matthew Currie]

I've had studs and non studs at various times. One year I had studded Hakkapellittaas on all four wheels. You could climb a tree. If you have good tires and an XJ you don't often need studs, though. Nor, really are you likely to need extra weight in the rear, though it does not hurt if you don't overdo it.

If only two, put them on the rear. One thing you don't want to happen is for the fronts to grip enough better than the rears that you spin out when there's weight transfer. This is why, although it's quite all right for plowing big lots, it is considered poor practice to put chains on the front wheels rather than the back. Start down a hill, hit ice, end up going down the hill backwards.

Back in the old days, the first front drive Saabs had this issue. Tap the brakes on ice and round you'd go.

When I had a Scout with a snowplow and powr-lok rear end, the rear would break loose fairly readily, while the front was nailed to the pavement by the plow. I ballasted the rear with the concrete base for a shower stall for stability, along with a coupe of buckets of sand.

 

[peglegsport]

My opinion from 40 plus years of driving --all or nothing. I still have the vision in my head of a great big oak coming straight at me. A little voice in my head said "Get off the brakes , dummy!" Missed it! I was 16. Brakes panic locked , wheels turned , sliding in the snow. Just take it easy. When you lose it in 4 wheel, you're just along for the ride. Having studs on one end only will throw your 4 by out of balance i believe.