35's are on, now for the Mobi-Arc welder Q's (ATTN. Goat/Hinkley)

[Bones]

Well the 35 MT-Rs went on today, WTF have I done? It took 4 years to set my Jeep up to utilize the 33's well, now I have to start over.

Anyway, my Mobi-Arc is setting in a box begging to be put in and used. Scott at Mobi-Arc has been great to work with, but I am looking for application specific tips for install form those that have done it on the XJ. Any "pearls of wisdom" from those that have the set up? I was thinking of installing it against the firewall on the passenger side. That is where the void was left when the POS Bendix ABS pump was yanked. Only problem I see is the hood vents may be able to discharge a bit of water that way if parked on an incline. How water resistant is the control box of the Mobi-Arcs?

BTW: I went the 200x model so remote mounting is still do-able & Scott said they have the charging/under hood temp problem solved and the updates are done on the new (mine included) units.

Thanks,
Bones :skull1:

 

[Goatman]

Bones, so what're ya gonna to do....limit your articulation? What about front axles? Finally replaced those worn out 33" MT/R's.

I mounted my Mobi-Arc on a small pedestal above the passenger side wheel well, sort of next to the distributor and over the oil filter. The mounting bracket is on top of the pedestal which is bolted to the inner fender. That's about the only place there's room for it on my Renix motor, but that location works well. It's real easy to reach to both insert the leads and to work on if needed.

I recommend marking the positive and negative leads at the connectors, makes it easier to hook up. I used a small black and a small red wire tie. It's also easier to tape your leads together so they don't get tangled up when you need them.

What alternator are you using?

Scott and Frank are very good to work with, they sure helped me a bunch getting mine working right. We went through the underhood heat problem and they upgraded the thermal protector. They also made a running change to correct the problem I had in Moab.....the post where the battery lead hooks up spun and shorted the box out on the inside. Also, we got unlucky and when they upgraded the thermal protector they got a bad part...new part but it was defective. They totally rebuilt my box (which was fried), including the newest upgrades and thermal protector, for $60. I had a few problems with the unit, but I couldn't ask for any better customer service.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but here goes... Speaking of fitting the 35's, I just got a set of 33" TSL's (32.5" tall by my tape measure sitting on the Jeep with 20lbs x 11.5" wide with large lugs) and flexed the front up disconnected last night. I plan to run them off road only. I've got 2-3 inches of compression to go before stock located bump stops are on 1.5 hockey pucks worth of extension and the tires are just about to tear the flares off. I don't like the idea of limiting up travel, but since I still daily drive this thing and will most likely be doing so with 35" mtrs in the near future, I don't really want to ditch the flares and fender liner. I see Hinkley and others run a pretty substantial spacer in the coil as well as Richard's old setup had a pretty substantial spacer in the coil. However, it looks like Richard isn't running that spacer on the D44 axle. I have trimmed my flares and fender on the leading edge and will trim the trailing edge a bit soon with no problem, but I can't move them up due to the snorkel and would like to keep running them as stated before. What's your plan and what does Richard have to say about ditching the spacer with the D44. It doesn't look like he's moved his flares up either.

My specs to help visualize. '98 XJ, D44 front (hibrid width using short FSJ axles)with coil mounts raised 2" from stock height. 1.5 hockey pucks inside the coils. RE ZJ 4.5" coils. Chevy steel Ralley 8" wheels. Sits about 7.5" up from stock. Jeff

 

[Goatman]

Ah, Jeff you can't be at 7.5".......I'm at 7.5".

I didn't put the bumpstop extensions on the D44, as Jeff has observantly stated. That really wasn't a good idea, since I was using the shocks for bumpstops, and eventually broke one shock. It's OK for crawling, but once you start going fast and hitting that shock hard now and then, it's no good. My spring pad and lower shock mounts are raised two inches on the D44. My setup has 5 inches of up travel, and I use a 12" travel shock. I did quite a bit of trimming, but never raised the flares, since all the rubbing is inside. I did the usual flatening of the pinch seam in the rear of the wheel well, trimmed the bottom of the front part of the fender until it cleared, and trimmed quite a bit off the bottom in the rear of the fender. I haven't run any liners for a long time. Jeff, just take them out and spray a bunch undercoating in there.

I have since added 3 hockey pucs on the bottom (bolted through) and lowered the upper bumpstop about an inch. With the new 37's and the Sway-a-ways, plus the new baja driving style, the bumpstops have to be used properly. With the 37's I finally ditched the flairs and had to cut more off the fender all the way around the wheel opening, plus more at the bottom back of the fender. I also did what Hinkley and Paul Sinclair did to run 35's on less lift, I cut back the nob (lack of a better term) at the front of the inner fender that's underneath the battery on the pass side and the air box on the drivers side. Paul cut and plated it, but Mark just made slits in it and then folded them under and welded them. I followed Mark's lead and did it the easy way.

I'm running 37's on 7.5" lift without really limiting up travel, still 5". Mark and Paul are running 35's/36's (315 75x16) with 5-6" lift and a 3" ORGS bumpstop extender on bottom and ACOS on top.

Enough rambling......I have to get to work in the yard.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Ok Goat, I took the tape measure out again just now. I guess I could ammend my height to 7". Seems to me I measured 8" in the rear once not too long ago, but here's what I just got:

LF - 16" from bump stop pad to top of tower +2" coil mount raise-11.25 stock measurement as taken from an old thread = 6.75

RF - 16.5 + 2 - 11.25 = 7.25

Front has 6.5" compression on right and 6" compression on left.

LR - 13.125" from axle to frame above bump stop - 6" stock measurement as taken from an old thread = 7.125

RR - 13.5 - 6 = 7.5

Yeah, it sits low on one side. I don't know why. It does bother me a bit but oh well. There is a bunch of other crap on my Jeep that bothers me too. Sound familiar?

 

[XJJPR]

Bones,

Both mine, two jeeps, are mounted where the air box was. I made a pedestal mount which uses the stock air box holes. I like Goats setup because it is farther from the headers. I don't think a little water is going to be a big deal. Just don't have it pointing with the face up, like mine, and it shouldn't matter. Yes, Scott and Frank do have great custome service!

mark