• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

33X12.50R15 Tires no lift on an XJ if possible pics plz question

that seems a little harsh! a little paint and that thing would not look so bad or be getting slammed on so hard, it looks like an alberta jeep..

you're right, and i'm not trying to be an asshole, but someone had to say it.

The rust that we see is that bad, imagine how bad what we don't see is. I'd be afraid to breathe on his brake lines. It needs serious TLC before it needs tires.

UNLESS its a trailered rig..
 
You will be very close to rubbing the leaf springs in the back, some 12.50s will fit, some wont, and 12.50 wont tuck inside the rear fenderwell. For the front, you will rub the contrtol arms pretty bad. You can adjust your stopper, or be careful and don't turn full lock. On the inside of the front well, you need to cut perpendicular slits on the inner rib, and then hammer it flat against the well. You can definitely run a 32x11.50 as it sits now.

A 32x11.50R15 would not be a bad choice because my tire of choice is a Cooper STT. And I will definitely keep that in mind.

Get 33x10.5. They will tuck better and you won't have as much issues with rubbing control arms and leaf springs. As was said earlier bump stop accordingly. You will probably need to massage a bit mor in the front but it looks like you cut past the pinch seam in the rear. Address it or you'll have water and road grim leaking inside the cab and rust will start there too and mildew.


Dude

Rust. Fix it first. clean it off and throw some primer on it at least. And get your rockers fixed. Then do tires.

I was once told that 33x10.50R15 is a very limited tire size and not many tires in that size exist. If the Cooper STT came in 33x10.50R15 I would be all for it. Yes, I did cut past the pinch seams but I have a solution for that as my friend told me this. My friend told me that he can weld in some metal in the hole where the pinch seam is. Or I was also told on another board that I can put expanding foam in the seam and cut it when it drys but I don't know if that would work.

I will fix the rust on the XJ but until my next paycheck is here I can only sit and watch it rust some more or until my friend pays me back then I can start removing the rust.

agrred^^^ always get it road ready before you go investing in aftermarket parts...from the pictures the frame itself looks to be ok...that front fenders/rockers/doors seem to be hanging by a thread...as long as none of the rust has gone through on the doors grab a DA and go to town. then primer and your choice of paint....

rear wells definitly went past the pinch welds. have any access to a welder? Your going to want to fix that.

Like previously stated 10.5s could work. BUMPSTOP accordingly.

I see your rear leafs are inverted and your front coils arent what they should be...maybe after you fix the body (if you plan on keeping this) some craigslist/naxja used leafs and coils could be bought....just sayin

I plan to get it road worthy before I start to mod it. I do have access to a welder but I am not proficient at welding however, my friend is and hes also a Jeep Fanatic so it will be easy with his help to anything Jeep Related. I will look into a NAXJA used lift from someone on here it should be cheaper than a brand new lift and since its already sagged it wont sag anymore, at least that's my theory. :)

33x10.50R15 would work but its such a limited market and the tire I would like to get are the Cooper STT's

v8 grand cherokee coils will give you about 2" lift, combined with a bastard pack in the rear, could be done for less than $100 and makes fitting 33's much easier.

Thats valuable information I will look into the v8 Grand Cherokee springs. A bastard pack? Whats that? Is that when you take a pack from other trucks and put them together? I'm not entirely sure.

33x10.50 FTW!!

33x10.50R15 would work but its just to limited and the tires I would like to get are the Cooper STT's

x2 on what everyone else has suggested. fix that rust! and get some other stock leafs, or similar. those gotta go.

33x10.50R15 would work but its just to limited and the tires I would like to get are the Cooper STT's

0628111317.jpg

I don't recommend it, makes your roof cave in :D but in all seriousness I know with my 1st xj stock rims and 235x75s caused rubbing on the lower control arm lip. I would definitely recommend grabbing some lower control arms out of a wj. They have a bend in them to give you more room for steering.

I will look into the WJ lower control arms.

that thing has natural boatsides.

lol what?

I do remember seeing a picture floating about on here with someone having 34s on a stock xj, just trimming. But I would at least do a budget 2" to get you some clearance.

I'm thinking about either a 2.5" BB or a rough country 3" lift kit.

Best way to find out? Get out the measuring tape. Stock tires are 225s, which are about 27-28" tall. 33s are 5" bigger all around, so you'll need at 2.5" extra clearance around your current tires. More if you want the suspension to cycle or to be able to steer.

Well the tire I have now on my XJ is 245/70R15 I think that's a 28" tire not sure. I will be getting either a BB or a 3" rough country lift. Not sure though...

You can do it but you'd have very little uptravel, best if to atleast run a 2 or 3 inch lift, not to mention the stock lca's will probabley fold at the first trail.

I plan to put a BB or a 3" rough country lift on but I'm not sure which one. Going for cost effective.

Did you cut the rear fenders? I don't see a cut and fold there.

Do you have a close up of the rear fender well?

I just Cut the rear I did not fold it and that was my mistake. I will get a rear fender picture in detail on both sides by tomorrow.

Pretty obvious he cut and folded the rear fenders . . .

I actually did not fold them I just cut them and apparently I cut to much.

10434_506073589574_3079097_n.jpg


100% stock, just 33s on wheels and trimmed fenders. They rubbed a little. I could have trimmed a little more and made it work, but the jeep went under the knife like 2 days later to be built.

Well that's solid proof. What exactly rubbed? Did you have aftermarket wheels?

why settle for 33s? Go for 35's and be done with the entire rig. I mean... what else is there that that jeep could possibly need more than bigger tires?

The dude is trying to put 33's on this- do you guys really think he's going to invest in bumpstopping?

Seriously, your door handles are about to fall off, the leaf springs are sagging, you cut the pinch seams in the rear which is going to open you up to a world of problems. Then you want to put bigger tires on, which will only jack whats left of your seams up even more.

And 33x12.5- I could be wrong, but wouldn't that mean you'd need wider than stock wheels?

Is this a DD? a trail rig? Do you plan on keeping it a while? Are you 16? I'm trying to understand the direction you're going here, and what you expect about whats left of this vehicle.

I wouldn't feel safe driving in the thing; I wouldn't even feel safe being on the road while you're driving that thing.

That guy Jerimiah, the one who just posted to all the chapter boards about his daughter being taken off of life support because a wheel came off of another vehicle and went through her windshield. It was was reiterated in the thread how important it was to make sure your jeep functionally safe, and how important it is to educate people when they [attempt to] make a dangerous decision(ex: 4" blocks). Don't be that guy.

If this is anything other than a trail rig to be TRAILERED to and from the trail, then I'd say go for it. Otherwise... tires are the LAST thing that you should be concerned about right now

I'm actually going for a low Center of Gravity Jeep so I don't need an over the top lift to fit the 35" but I also know there's a person I think on this forum that has a 3.5" lift and has 37's that's just out of my style.

I don't exactly know what that means but If I have to then I will bump stop it.

I am going to fix the seams if I can, Also I plan to get a lift for this Jeep either a BB or a 3" Rough Country lift I am not sure yet on what I want.

For 33x12.50R15 Yes I do need an after market wheel with 3.75 Backspacing or 4.00 backspacing.

This is a trail rig only. I do plan for keeping it for quite some time. I am 21. I just expect this Jeep to be trail rig only with the acceptation of this also being my winter vehicle as my Grand Cherokee is going to be sent over to my dads house to have him use it as a winter car then in spring I will be getting it back.

I have not read about Jerimiah but from what you said in your paragraph I feel sorry for him and his daughter that should not have happened. I will do my utmost to make sure that my Vehicle is safe and good to drive. I don't plan to hurt anyone or anything while I drive this vehicle.

This Jeep wont be a trailer queen but It will only be driven to and from the trail and in winter.


that seems a little harsh! a little paint and that thing would not look so bad or be getting slammed on so hard, it looks like an alberta jeep..

I don't mind it being harsh it makes me feel that I can read what they say and I can put it to use. It also shows that I and my rig are not perfect and there needs to be things done to it to make it "perfect" should there ever be a word to fit it.

doubt that, I ran stock LCAs with 33s and 4" of lift for two years and did blatantly stupid things and barely kinked one of them - and that took blasting into the lip of a mudpit at 25-30mph while doing a time trial. I ran on those control arms for another few months before I replaced them with Rough Country.

In my experience the uppers fold and break first. The lowers just chew your tire shoulder lugs up.

edit: a few things
- check your lower control arm mounts, frame and body side, for rust damage. If they're rotted too bad, the first rock you try to bump it over or the first heavy braking offroad will tear the mounts off the axle tube or frame. Don't ask how I know this!
- check your frame to make sure it's not rotted through anywhere.
- check your leaf springs for the same thing.

Then wheel it till the wheels fall off!



holy crap, that thing was clean back in the day.

So should I keep the factory control arms but buy them brand new or should I go straight to after market LCA or should I use WJ LCA and upper control arms. I plan to lift my Jeep either a BB or 3" rough country.

Seemed harsh, but it really does look like Jeep could benefit from a lot more than tires. If it stays on the trails only I say ride it till the wheels fall off. For a DD...I'd imagine that's not in the best of shape considering all that can be seen from the pics.

So may have seemed harsh, but really not. IMO.

Its a trail only rig then in winter it becomes my DD in the spring I have a WJ that spends its time at my dads house so he can use the WJ for the winter.

you're right, and i'm not trying to be an asshole, but someone had to say it.

The rust that we see is that bad, imagine how bad what we don't see is. I'd be afraid to breathe on his brake lines. It needs serious TLC before it needs tires.

UNLESS its a trailered rig..

I know your not trying to be an asshole but I actually welcome it because every comment on this thread helps me little by little. This however is not a trailer queen. It will be a DD during the winter and in spring summer and fall its a trail only rig.

i dont see the rocker panels anymore.... would you say the rust is really that bad lol

Theres a reason for the rockers being gone. The rockers where cut off and I plan to weld in some box tubing where the rockers go.



I plan to lift this Cherokee either a Budget Boost or a 3" Rough Country lift. I'm not sure what to get yet.
 
Don't bother buying new stock LCAs, that's just a waste. I'd get WJ ones or just go right to aftermarket.

You should not have cut off the rockers till you were ready to weld the new metal in the same day, the edges are probably rotten again now and you're going to have to cut back more and patch even more before putting the box tube in.
 
I have 38s on 4" of lift, I could fit 40s if I had them.

Just got a new toy 91 xj put the old 3" lift on it that was on my other one before the ton swap. I plan on running 33s with 3".
It requires trimming but shouldnt be to bad.

Search Search Search, read read read, search some more.
 
here is pic after I cut the front and trimed and folded the rear could drive on the street would rub when turned hard over alos would rub going over curbs.
2011-09-09091310-1.jpg
 
Well that's solid proof. What exactly rubbed? Did you have aftermarket wheels?



I'm actually going for a low Center of Gravity Jeep so I don't need an over the top lift to fit the 35" but I also know there's a person I think on this forum that has a 3.5" lift and has 37's that's just out of my style.

i had 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing. other than trimming sheet metal I had to hammer the pinch seams flat (front and back) I didn't wheel it like this though, only played around on rocks for about 10 minutes lol.

Im also one of the guys who ran 37s on about 3" of lift.
 
So...what's the big deal about cutting the pinch seam? Weld it back together, fold it and seal it. Done.

But like all others already said: Before you do anything else, strip the interior and get rid of all the rust you will find, and make sure that rig doesn't fall apart as soon as you hit the first rock!

If it turns out to be more rust than car is left, go find a better base to start with!
 
I would not recommend 33s on stock height, even if you cut finders... you will cut your tires, and possibly bend the remaining fenders you have. If you do "Get bump stops!" Front and rear. Unless you just Mall Craw the s*** out of it. lol
Put at least a 1.5 inch lift on it... easy work and cheap. Some times you can find free lift kits for that height on naxja. Pucks and an add a leaf and bar pin eliminators for the shocks.
 
CT67-72 ran 4 inches of lift on 37 irocks and his jeep did well despite snappin shafts on the locked 30 every other wheeling trip.
 
Ok, so I have 33x12.5 on 2" lift and it's functional enough for me (no rubbing with bumpstops installed). That said, I hit the bumpstops a LOT. (I can only imagine it would be really bad on 0" of lift unless you trimmed a ton of your fenders).

Honestly, I quickly found myself wanting just a teensy bit more (the 3.5" lift should arrive today and will install over the weekend).

Here's a pic of it on 2" lift (with bushwhackers):
12
 
Back
Top