I have done some searching and have decided to try and tackle a front 3 Link setup when the weather gets a little cooler. One thing I have noticed that a lot guys building their systems run the upper link on the passenger side while some of the kits you can buy run it on the driver side with a bridge over the diff. Is one side better than the other? What are the benfits of each and what side is more simplistic to accomplish. I would rather not have to do unnessecary work like move the exhuast and trac bar if i don't have to. I will be building my own frame stiffeners, crossmember, etc. I have seen a lot of built jeeps done on pass side. But trusted companies such as clayton run driver side. I just want to get experienced opinions and advice to ad to my database before I do this. I want to build a solid system that is correct and safe. Any advice or input would be very helpful .
3 link
- Thread starter bails85
- Start date
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
it was my understanding that the driver's side upper axle mount on a d30 is stronger than the passenger side, which is why most people use it. however, when building a custom axle, many times the driver's side upper mount isnt cast in the housing, like on full size axles. at that point it's safer to weld on a beefy passenger side mount rather than trying to weld a bracket to cast iron.
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Most people that are buying a kit are doing so because they dont have the means/desire to do extensive fab work.
just my take
just my take
twodoorXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- northern new jersey
I ran mine on the passenger side because theyres more room, and my d44 doesnt have an UCA mount cast into the pumpkin, so instead of trying to weld to the cast or build some sort of truss above it i just ran a Barnes 4wd bracket on the pass. side.
- Location
- San Diego
its probably easier to fit on the pass side.
other than that it really doesn't matter.
don't use the OEM mounts, the joints are too small.
run a 2.5" JJ or a 1.25" heim.
other than that it really doesn't matter.
don't use the OEM mounts, the joints are too small.
run a 2.5" JJ or a 1.25" heim.
twodoorXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- northern new jersey
Not enough room with the stock exhaust to run a joint that big, nor is it needed IMO.
Im running 7/8s on my uppers( with grade 8 5/8s bolts), both heim still as tight/clunk free as the day i got them. Ive already gone through two sets of 1.25 heims in my lowers
jmaxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- in My shorts.
^^ exactly. i'm running mine the same way with no issues.
- Location
- San Diego
that depends on how long your links are and really, getting exhaust re-routed is something that should be done anyway
7/8" is pushing it IMO.
but you shouldn't be going through 1.25" like that. how are you setting them up? is there any pre-load on the joints
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
my upper link is about 25" long, and i'm using 1.25" heims on the passenger side. no other reason than i got the heims for dirt cheap at the junkyard and i figured they'd last forever. it fits fine with the stock exhaust. i'm using a poly performance axle mount, the 6" version.
this is with 5" of lift and lots of uptravel (i can hit the factory bump stop location when flexed out)
this is with 5" of lift and lots of uptravel (i can hit the factory bump stop location when flexed out)
I'm running 3/4" uppers with 5/8" bolts. No issues here.
- Location
- San Diego
1 or 2?
- Location
- San Diego
a 3/4" end is strong enough, and a 5/8" bolt is more than strong enough.
but it will wear faster because of the smaller race size. 7/8" is a little better, but still small.
it also depends on the kind of wheeling/driving you do. someone that spends a lot of time in the desert is going to wear out a heim a lot quicker than someone who DDs and does moderate wheeling on the weekends.
jmaxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- in My shorts.
I'm going on 3 yrs on the same 2 7/8 hiems i put in my link when i built it. and by no means am i easy on my junk, so i say they work just fine. I've even built 2 other setups identical to mine with no issues either. my setup was copied from a couple friends WERock comp rigs so i figure if it could handle that abuse then it works just fine.
I don't spend any time in the desert nor do I DD mine. I trailer it, and put my rig through about 5 or 6 trips a year. So it doesn't get many miles, it just gets beat on for a few hard trips a year.
twodoorXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- northern new jersey
Pre load?
The lowers clunk like no tomorrow, i understand heims have more NVH, but these things suck.
Also why should you have to re do the exhaust anyway, why make more work for yourself? Dont fix what isnt broken IMO
chedisme
NAXJA Member
- Location
- middletown, NY
Yea what is this pre load you speak of?
KRAKER
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- where blank stares are normal
One reason I ran my upper on the p-side was to keep it away from my pinion. Here in AZ i have noticed almost every commonly available kits upper come into contact with the yoke. Whether or not its a design flaw by the kit makers or other reasons, I don't know.
That's not the only reason I set mine up like so. But, it was a contributing factor.
Oh and I run 7/8 rod ends on my upper and i don't go easy on it.
That's not the only reason I set mine up like so. But, it was a contributing factor.
Oh and I run 7/8 rod ends on my upper and i don't go easy on it.
Last edited:
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
i've seen that too, even with dana 30's.
both my d44 and now my d60 have it on the pass side since the housing didnt have a casted bracket on it and i didnt feel like welding to cast iron.
