2" Teraflex Budget Boost

river6822

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY, USA
I probably should have asked this BEFORE I purchased the 2" Teraflex budget boost, but I just didn't think of it. I also searched but couldn't find a direct answer to this question.

Will I need to replace the stock shocks, or are they still acceptable with the 1.5" - 2" the spacers and shackles?

The shocks are relatively new, and are perfectly functional, so I'd rather not replace them if there will be no ill effects.

Thanks
 
You should be fine with the stock shocks. I was at 3.5-4 with stockers for a while before my extended shocks came in.
 
man i have stocks on my jeep for the time being and my rear shocks top out on the littlest bumps, It is annoying.. I hear just use a couple hockey pucks and drill a hole in the center up front and either get longer ones for the rear or make some spacers for them. I would say your best bet is to replace those or get some STM's from www.detoursusa.com or BPE's
 
So you are saying I definietly need to extend the bump stops and run longer shockes for the 1.5" lift.

Are you running the same Teraflex BB - or something similar?
 
I have a RE BB well..... the front isn't done but thats what i have :D. I do have the AAL's on the back and haven't had the time to finish my lift. I bought extended bumpstops from www.jeepinoutfitters.com they were 10 bucks a piece and yes run longer shocks or STM's which are like 40 bucks a pair. I think the BPE's(bar pin eliminators) will move the mount down around an inch and a half.
 
about the same thing they eliminate those bar pins that go through the top of the shock in the rear and the bottom of the fronts. The STM's and the BPE's will lower the top mount in the rear eliminating the need for longer shocks :D
 
It's not that I don't trust what you are telling me, but I'm confused as to why Teraflex does not list that you'll need to change your shocks and extend the bumpstop. Their installation guide even indicates:

"Note: Alignment is not generally necessary after installing this kit."

I guess I'm just slapping myself in the head for coming up with these questions AFTER I ordered the lift instead of before. I even researched it on here, but things didn't click about the bumpstop and shocks until today.
 
i did that teraflex kit on my '96. it may depend on your particular shock-mine were definitely too short in the rear, even speedbumps would cause the rears to max out with a "whack!", the fronts were marginal. used zj shocks f/r in their place-perfect! and despite their disclaimer, i needed an alignment afterward as the resulting toe-in caused deathwobble. no bumpstopping needed for me, even at max compression with the front disco'd there's nothing running into anything else.
 
http://members.aol.com/Stvns/XJhelp1.html

This is a good site for a beginner such as myself. It talks about a lot of the stuff you guys do, but with pictures for us simple folk.

I think you are right about the actual hardware that's installed on my particular XJ. I'll have to install the lift and then check for travel limits, rubbing, etc... Then I can determine the minor fixes I'll need to tune it in.
 
http://members.aol.com/Stvns/XJhelp1.html

This is a good site for a beginner such as myself. It talks about a lot of the stuff you guys do, but with pictures for us simple folk.

I think you are right about the actual hardware that's installed on my particular XJ. I'll have to install the lift and then check for travel limits, rubbing, etc... Then I can determine the minor fixes I'll need to tune it in.


there ya go you are on the right track now. I'm not trying to demean you or anything just trying to help out. I have the RE kit which came with shocks since mine need replaced anyways i decided to get it. I have heard an alignment is not necessary on a BB but i haven't got the front end done. I think the fronts are ok but your rear shocks are almost definately goona top out
 
No - I didn't take it that way at all. I just like to see consistent answers. I'm finding out that with the XJ there are limited consistent answers. There are sooooo many variables that most of the conversations here should be viewed more as guidelines.

I appreciate all the input. No offense taken.
 
2" budget boost and 30" tires on stock steel wheels...
You may need an alignment, but likely not.
You may need to re-center your steering wheel.
You may need to adjust your steering stops.
I highly doubt that bumpstops will be required. If they are for some reason, silicone one hockey puck to the axle spring perch on each side.
Stock shocks will be fine. If you want increased axle droop when disconnected offroad, a longer set of shocks will allow it... not necessary, but will compliment the BB off road disconnected.

At 2" I had alignment check, was ok, but I did need to center the steering wheel.
At 2" the front axle was 1/8" off center. Redrilling, or aftermarket track bar not required.
At 2" on 30's I did not need bumpstops, or adjustment to steering stops.
At 2" the sway bar had good geometry with the stock end links.
At 2", the stock control arms bind against the shock tabs before the brake lines are fully extended up front, and the rear had an excess of length, longer brake lines not required.

I wheeled with 2" lift springs and no other suspension modifications for over a year.
I added longer shocks, and articulation was greatly improved.

That was my experience.
Good luck.
 
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Thanks Mike H! I'm only off road on logging trails and have never disco'd the sway bar. I never even considered the trac-bar. 2" and 30's is exactly my plan.
 
I agree you should be ok on stock shocks, but longer ones will inprove articulation.

BPEs are never a bad idea, and will let you get that extra droop with your stock shocks. As mentioned, these allow you to get rid of the stupid bar pins that go through the shock bushing, and use a regular bolt instead.

An alignment may be necessary, as it WILL change after the lift. As you raise the vehical, the draglink angle becomes steeper. Because of the nature of our "Y" link steering, it will effect toe in. At 2", it may not be enough to throw it out of spec, but it would be a good idea to check it. You can align it yourself, I have done mine using this basic method for many years with no issues http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm. You really shouldn't have to center the steering wheel unless you mess with the trackbar.
 
well i disagree with you guys my stock shock suck on the road every decent sized bump i hit my rear shocks top out. i have had the rear end twisted up pretty good with the stock rears also. I'm not saying you guys are wrong but it is optimal to buy longer shocks do some research maybe you can find shocks that are a little longer and pull them at a pic-a-part
 
ten high - What size/brand/type tires are you running?

they were 235/75r15 all terrains on stock wheels. now they're 50% worn 245/75r16 mt/r's on tj moab wheels. i haven't flexed it out yet, but it looks like the only interference will be at the inner top edge of the flare-we'll see this weekend. as a side note: my springs were/are still in really good shape, not all saggy like most xj's.
 
I'm not too worried about the articulation because I never disco the sway bars. I'm betting the sway bar will limit me way before the shock length will be come into play.

It looks to me the the BPE's are not a bad idea, but I'm not ordering them until after I get through this phase of my "build." You can't use a regular bolt with the JKS style BPE's, but you can with a home brew or Teraflex type. I think the biggest advantage is that you don't have the weak link of the flattened part of the stock bar pin. They also allow you to run a wider array of shocks based on the end connection. for what I'm doing, they probably are not necessary, but would be a nice addition for future upgrades.

I'll be getting brand new tires and will be aligning anyway. It's a "new to me" Jeep and I have no idea when the last time it was done, so for the extra $50 it's getting done.
 
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