Israel
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spanish Fahrk, Utah
There are a lot of different threads on bumper builds on 
providing almost as many variations of what can be done. To give back to the community, here is my version of a rear bumper.
Part 1: Materials
(1) length of 2”x5” pipe 3/16” thick and 66” long
(2) lengths of 2”x5” pipe 3/16” thick and 19” long
(2) lengths of 2”x3” pipe ¼” thick and 6.5” long
(2) lengths of 2” flat bar ¼” thick and 17” long
(2) lengths of 4” flat bar ¼” thick and 13.5” long
Various lengths of flat bar to cover the ends of the pipe.
The total for all the steel came to $96.87. If I had been thinking, I would have just ordered my 2”x5” pipe 104” long, my 2”x3” pipe 13” long, my 2” bar 34” long and my 4” bar 27” long since as I found out later, they charge per cut and I have access to a horizontal band saw. The total cost would have been closer to 80.00. Oh, well.
Here is a pic of the main bumper piece. It is 66” long. The tapers at the ends were done by measuring 12” from the ends and 1.75” down from the top and drawing a line between the two. I made the cuts with a die grinder with a cut off blade on it. Both sides took about 15 minutes to cut. The hole through the center was done by tracing the outline of the receiver in the center of the bumper and then drilling a ½” hole at each corner of the tracing. I then connected the holes with the die grinder and cut off blade. The receiver will go through the bumper sticking about 2” out from the face of the bumper and be welded on both sides.
These are the two side pieces. They have a 15* cut on the end that will be in the wheel well and a 2” recess cut on the other end to fit on top of the main bumper piece.
These are the brackets that will bolt to the stock 8 mount holes. I will be drilling an additional 4 holes per bracket on the corners just for some extra beef. I believe I drilled the holes with a ½” drill bit which will allow some adjustment when bolting the bumper on.
Here are the two bumper spacers. I want the bumper to almost be flush with the hatch so I cut the body of the spacers to be 2.5”. This will put the face of the bumper about ½” out from the hatch. As you can see, I cut off three sides of the remaining material to make 4” long tabs. I’m going to cut a pair of slots in the bumper which they will be inserted through and stick 2” out from the front of the bumper. Then I’ll weld two ¼” pieces to the sides of the tabs and drill a 15/16” hole through the three pieces to make a pair of D-ring shackle hangers. The thought is that any pull forces on the D-rings will be directed through the bumper to the mount plates and frame rail strips instead of to the bumper, then to the spacers and mount plates.
Frame rail strips. They will be drilled for the 3 holes each as the bumper is being assembled. In all, the bumper will be held to the Jeep with 22 bolts.
providing almost as many variations of what can be done. To give back to the community, here is my version of a rear bumper.Part 1: Materials
(1) length of 2”x5” pipe 3/16” thick and 66” long
(2) lengths of 2”x5” pipe 3/16” thick and 19” long
(2) lengths of 2”x3” pipe ¼” thick and 6.5” long
(2) lengths of 2” flat bar ¼” thick and 17” long
(2) lengths of 4” flat bar ¼” thick and 13.5” long
Various lengths of flat bar to cover the ends of the pipe.
The total for all the steel came to $96.87. If I had been thinking, I would have just ordered my 2”x5” pipe 104” long, my 2”x3” pipe 13” long, my 2” bar 34” long and my 4” bar 27” long since as I found out later, they charge per cut and I have access to a horizontal band saw. The total cost would have been closer to 80.00. Oh, well.
Here is a pic of the main bumper piece. It is 66” long. The tapers at the ends were done by measuring 12” from the ends and 1.75” down from the top and drawing a line between the two. I made the cuts with a die grinder with a cut off blade on it. Both sides took about 15 minutes to cut. The hole through the center was done by tracing the outline of the receiver in the center of the bumper and then drilling a ½” hole at each corner of the tracing. I then connected the holes with the die grinder and cut off blade. The receiver will go through the bumper sticking about 2” out from the face of the bumper and be welded on both sides.
These are the two side pieces. They have a 15* cut on the end that will be in the wheel well and a 2” recess cut on the other end to fit on top of the main bumper piece.
These are the brackets that will bolt to the stock 8 mount holes. I will be drilling an additional 4 holes per bracket on the corners just for some extra beef. I believe I drilled the holes with a ½” drill bit which will allow some adjustment when bolting the bumper on.
Here are the two bumper spacers. I want the bumper to almost be flush with the hatch so I cut the body of the spacers to be 2.5”. This will put the face of the bumper about ½” out from the hatch. As you can see, I cut off three sides of the remaining material to make 4” long tabs. I’m going to cut a pair of slots in the bumper which they will be inserted through and stick 2” out from the front of the bumper. Then I’ll weld two ¼” pieces to the sides of the tabs and drill a 15/16” hole through the three pieces to make a pair of D-ring shackle hangers. The thought is that any pull forces on the D-rings will be directed through the bumper to the mount plates and frame rail strips instead of to the bumper, then to the spacers and mount plates.
Frame rail strips. They will be drilled for the 3 holes each as the bumper is being assembled. In all, the bumper will be held to the Jeep with 22 bolts.
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