Recent content by XJTripp

Problem 2 - THis may be a long shot, but there is a drain in the heater core enclosure on the passenger side firewall. Mine has plugged before and during driving and sloshing around I got some drips on the passenger floor and I could hear the sloshing. Air compressor and a bit of wire cleared...

Problem 1 - It could be the check valve. One of our later model XJ's has this. If I switch on the key, listen to the soft humming coming from the pump, I can hear it shut off. Then turn the key off and turn it right back on. Wait for the humming to stop again (about 3-5 seconds), turn the...

Awesome, Did as you said and the issue is fixed. No codes and I've got 4th gear again. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for the help. It's P0700 Trans Ctrl System Malfunction P0705 Trans Range Sens Malf (PRNDL) I'll look for the manual you reference.

I just bought a 98. The previous owner says he just had the NSS replaced. He drove it for a couple of weeks and everything worked well. When I came to pick up the vehicle it would only shift 1-2-3 but will not hit OD(4th). It feels like the Torque Converter locks. The check engine light...

I doubt the type is important, but it was the bmw valve that I succesfully used on my 1989. I think that when pressure rises at the rail, then the check valve shuts. My pressure regulator is on the fuel pump on this 2001 model and now the damper that is on the fuel rail handles the situation...

Thanks Tim, I'm taking the check valve out. UNCC, I think the way you can tell is that if you have a fuel return line and a pressure regulator on the engine - I think its near the front of the engine with an inlet, outlet and a vacuum connection- then you are safe with the check valve. On...

I have a 2001 Cherokee 4.0. The fuel pump check valve became ineffective and the thing took 2-3 tries to start every time. I basically wore a starter out before I took action. I put in an in-line check valve just like I had done previously with my 89 and it worked like a charm. Starts at the...

The cracked head is a potential culprit. This allows water to enter the crankcase. Pick up a slug of water in the oil pump and no pressure! It happened to me. The head cracked between the no 2 and no 3 cylinder and you could see it through the oil fill hole. If this were the case you should...

Hi, The loud snap could have been a crack in the head. I experienced this, but it was with a later model 4.0. I have heard the later HO heads are more prone to this.If this is your problem signs would be: Coolant loss Oil pressure loss intermittent. This occurs when your oil pump picks up a...

Low fuel pressure will cause the syptoms you give. Will make you think your timing is retarded due to backfire when you open the throttle. Just experienced this on my wife's 89 4.0 Renix.

Had a high RPM/ High speed overheat problem. Only overheated on the interstate when driving 75 mph or so. You'd hit 230 in less than 5 min. Stop and idle and the temp. would go back down. Had installed aftermarket lower radiator hose with no internal spring. Believe that this hose sucked...

Just replaced my radiator too. At idle at a stoplight I hit 215 before I cut the AC off. Looked under hood and I had forgotten to plug in the electric fan. Yes the little elec. fan does make a difference. Plugged it in and now I get 195 to 200 all the time with an OEM 195 t-stat.

Perhaps the Neutral Safety Switch. I believe it also is responsible for "telling" the TCU what position your shifter is in. It is down on the side of the Trans. If got messed up, your TCU may not sense that your shifter is in D. The TCU is under the dashboard, it should not have gotten wet...

If air is the problem another thing that helps is to disconnect the top rad. hose at the thermostat. Hold the hose end as high as you can and fill it. Now stick it back on. Have a water hose handy to flush things as it is a little messy. When you do this, have the cap off the coolant bottle...