That's just my problem. It seems like (as per Amazon), that some headers are $400, but from a crappy korean company I've never heard of. Other crappy ones are $77, but they might be fine for what I'm looking for.
I've heard of Dorman (about $150), but the comments above about "change it out...
I have a 98 XJ with the factory header crack. It's gotten really bad. The rest of the exhaust is going to be redone, probably reusing the glass pack I've already got. I haven't had a cat for a decade. This jeep ONLY runs off road, and is used increasingly infrequently. I looked on Amazon...
So I have the infamous leaking at the weld in the exhaust headers. 1998 XJ classic 4.0L with ~100,000 miles, now only driven on forestry roads and in the snow. The exhaust header (not cast iron manifold) is leaking at the junction between the two banks; I can see the crack. I'm going to pull...
It looks like I'm going to have to rebuild my 1998 AW4 transmission. I'll probably also do the NP231 at the same time. One of my big complaints with this setup is that it won't stay in first, and will upshift to second gear. I'm recalling a way to install a switch that will keep it in first...
1998 XJ, 104,000 miles. My bad, I flat towed my XJ behind my daily driver. with the transmission engaged but in neutral. Normally, I put the transfer case in neutral, but it was raining while I was hooking up and I wasn't paying attention. I just put the transmission in neutral (x-fer case...
Trailer brakes are a must. I use chains for front to back, and then cross the back bumper with an "X" of straps to keep the sway down. I tow a big trailer with no other mods to the Yukon. The trailer brake controller is an absolute blessing. I towed this setup around Colorado for a month...
I have a "stink jeep" problem in my lightly modified 1998 XJ. It's pretty bad. It is a mixture of rat urine/feces and mold, from the Jeep sitting for a few years. I've tried the usual remedies, and I still can't get anyone to ride in it. It actually makes the whole garage stink if I park it with...
Try putting it in the oven at about 400 degrees, then putting ice or a cold chunk of metal on the bearing. It might slide right out. Do that stuff on motorcycles all the time. Make sure you put the replacement bearing in the freezer the night before.
Nope. All the shimming and preload steps are there, but no torque values. On page 16 it just says "according to manufacture's guidelines". The interwebs are saying either 55 ft/lbs or 80 ft/lbs, depending on the source. Some say 55 will work loose, while others say 80 will strip out. Apparently...
Disclaimer: I'm used to working on european motorcycles, which have torque values for every drain plug and body panel fastener, so maybe I'm just being paranoid.
I am putting this (now repaired) ARB air locker back into my 98 XJ (Dana 30). At some point, there are certain bolts (diff...