The question was how to install after market "lights" and use the factory "fog light" switch.
I really just wanted to use my 170's lights as off road lights not fog lights. I lived in Iceland and England and never really felt a strong need for fog lights in either place (low beams are fine and...
Thanks for the inputs but I'm still fuzzy on an actual answer especially the factory switch terminals 2 and 3 in relation to the brown and black/red wires on the harness.
This layout jives with the FSM as well but the volt meter is a sure way.
1. Orange - Fused panel lamps dimmer switch...
I've been running TnT long arms on a 5.5 lift for almost fours years and have had zero problems. Bob actually sent the kit to Iceland via USPS in small pieces when I was living there...how is that for customer service!
It is stout and has awesome flex. As for "unloading"...I lived in the UK...
I have read how others have installed after market fog lights using the factory switch and I have the diagrams but I need some additional help.
Below is the link to the Light Force wiring harness....notice the black/red and brown wires that go to the switch. The brown wire goes from the switch...
I've been looking for an answer to this for a bit and have had no luck. (I'm sure someone knows exactly where to look!)
The question:
I want to put a 9" in the rear of my XJ with either 4.86 or 5.14 gears. The problem is that neither of those ratios match a 30/44/60 which uses 4.88 or 5.13. I...
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I installed the TnT kit about a month ago (had it in storage for a year) with RE 5.5 coils and like it. I haven't been offroad yet due to that fact I live in England and I have been really busy....excuses I know. But, I do drive about 35 miles daily on the worst roads I have ever seen with an...
I have an 86 Comanche with about 270K on it and I ran (Lived in South Florida) straight Valvoline 40 weight after about 190. My family business always ran straight weight oil in the work trucks and it worked for me. No bad leaks and it never left me stranded. I would say for you run a higher...
3" seems like all you will need.......until "inchitis" sets in...hahahahaha. I started with a 3" Rough Country which was fine for about 3 years. Now I have 2500 bucks worth of 6.5" parts in my living room just waiting for a free weekend. Save your money, get the "good stuff" and do it right...
I have been thinking the same thing myself about mounting tools/gear/etc... I was thinking about making a "Rat-cage" type mount for the rear cargo area that I could take out if I need more room. The actual "Rat-cage" cost about $450 so buying one is not an option but I think fabricating one...
For a standard two joint drive shaft (stock xj) the centerline of the pinion on the diff and the output shaft on the TC should be parallel. You are adding shims and causing the problem to become worse. A TC drop will lower the output shaft of the TC but still remain parallel with the pinion on...