Recent content by tonyxj2k

Looking at the stamped sheet metal the stock XJ uppers are made from (and then the rust on top of that), I don't see how a set of JK arms threaded and put back together with tie rod sleeves could be any weaker. Hmmm... If they are tube and not solid round stock, maybe I could thread them...

I'm wondering if the JK front upper control arms are the same at the "C" and bushing ends as the arms for our XJs? New ones can be had pretty cheap and they appear to be made of tube or round stock. I'm thinking a person could cut them in half, trim to length, thread them (RH thread on one side...

If your camber is out and your ball joints and wheel bearings are tight, chances are you've got a bent axle tube. A good alignment shop will have the equipment to straighten the axle tube and put your camber back in spec. I tend to agree with old_man though, if you haven't had it on an alignment...

It's a tapered shaft so I could see there being some difference between different arms but not much. Mine has some kind of dust boot or cover between the bottom of the box and the top of the arm that appears to be missing on yours. My guess is that it was damaged during removal of the old arm...

As was said, toe and caster to fix the wandering and self centering issues. As for the deadband in the steering, given all your steering components are tight, check to see how much you can turn the steering shaft before the pitman arm moves. If it's a considerable amount, pull the aux fan to get...

As far as driveline angles are concerned, you'll want to buy an angle finder (they're cheap), measure the angle of your output shaft after the transfer case drop, measure the angle of your pinion, and order the right degree shims to make up the difference. To visualize this, imagine a line...

Right, all I was getting at was using a socket for the microcontroller so you don't have to desolder/solder every time you want to remove it. I'm doing good not to mess up a board trying to solder to it once. I can imagine needing a pile of spare TCMs if I had to desolder every time I wanted to...

I like the idea of your pushbutton controller combined with some sort of steering wheel mounted buttons. That with a switch to change back and forth between the stock TCM seems like an ideal setup to me. Don't get me wrong the rail and baja shifters look great but I really like the idea of being...

I don't know if it's applicable on these, but on the older chrysler ECUs we used to desolder the eprom and replace it with a socket to make changing them easier. The original eprom usually ended up destroyed but it wasn't a big deal as the stock calibration files for different vehicles were...

Right, we're only talking 2600 @ 70 running in 3. I just figured there might be a gas mileage improvement if it were allowed to shift into OD on flat ground and slight hills.

That shift controller looks really nice! I may consider it in the future if I decide to go with a manual setup. Right now though, I'm just wanting to gain some control over the OD shift points.

You know, it's really a shame that we even have to fool the TCU in the first place. In a perfect world, I could accomplish exactly what I want by tweeking a table and reflashing the TCU. I kind of miss the older Chrysler stuff where anybody with an eprom burner and software like ChEM or D-Cal...

As long as it doesn't actually try to do it.:scared: :) I'm getting bad mental images of a transbrake effect @ 70mph and pieces of AW4 all over the road. Perfect! That's what I was hoping for. Then I can use an adjustable vacuum switch and have control over how much throttle/load it takes to...

By sense wires I mean the TRS T3 (OD) sense wire on pin 9 of the TCM connector and the TRS T1 (3) sense wire on pin 22. The way I understand it, these wires (along with the 1-2 sense wire) are how the TCM knows which position the manual selector is in. Each sense wire has 12v+ on it from the...

That's it exactly! And not only do I need gears, but I'm also in that special place where OD is too high for the hills, but D is too low to run all the time. I'll regear eventually but was looking at changing the OD shift point as a temporary fix. It's been done. Like the rotary switch...