Recent content by meathead40

np 231, A/A sye, Tom Woods shaft center of u-joint to center of u-joint 33 1/2 center of rear u-joint to rubber seal on housing 36 3/4

I ordered the A/A SYE, Tom Woods Shaft and the RE 5.5 from them the end of last month. The Sye arrived pretty fast. Just waiting for the RE 5.5 so I can install it and call back with shaft measurements.

thanks, harbor freight rules. i love that place. thanks BILLR after your post i went and looked at tom woods geometry 101 for a cv shaft.

I would like to know a fast easy way to measure my pinion angle. I just ordered an re 5.5" lift, AA hd sye, and a Tom Woods cv drive shaft. After the lift and sye install I need to call em back with the pinion angle (for shims) and shaft length. I understand that the pinion needs to be parallel...

cost me $ 1200. complete rebuild. of course that was taking the engine to shop. could have cost me $ 900. but I paid a little more for little more HP and torque.

the transfer case turns the rear wheels as well. perhaps you may be able to test drive if its just the shift fork.

I had problems getting my 90 out of 4x. I disovered that the vaccuum module where the vaccuum lines plug into the transfer case was sticking. Took it off and found that the plunger (looks like a metel bearing on the end of it was stuck). Took one that was freed up out of a donor tcase and it...

cam the rv cam did in fact produce a noticable difference in low to mid range torque. throttle responce was also improved. never checked the gas mileage, speedo is off a few mph on the new transfer case, almost 10 mph off. I'll check it after i fix it.

rebuild rebuilt a 90 4.0 with "only" 200,000 miles on it. First time rebuilding a 4.0. Eagle is right. when torn down it was in really in good shape. just a little normal wear. did it anyway. probably was not necessary but enjoyed doing it for the peice of mind and learning experience. master...

Thanks Willy for posting that info. Turns out thats what my problem was all along. went out and checked after I read your post. cut a tab off that allowed me turn the distributor just a little bit. smoothed everything out. just needs a little fine tuning. Thanks

problem solved :D Thank you Mr. Currie Sir, I went out, cut off one of the retaining tabs on the distibutor. That allowed me to turn the distibutor more (counter clockwise). It runs smooth throughout the rpm range. Starts easy too. Just needs a little fine tuning. I suppose I should have...

this could be the problem I'm having. just had the engine rebuilt with an after market rv cam. it sputters and coughs with an occasional backfire starting at 1900 rpms and up. perhaps this would solve the problems.

Man Oh Man am I getting frustrated here. Engine still sputters, coughs with an occasional backfire starting right around 1900 rpms and up. Don't matter what speed. Didn't have this problem before the rebuild. It runs really smooth under 1900 rpms. checked all the vaccum lines, replaced crank...

I have been reading these threads and think I have discovered my problem. (engine sputter). I check the crank position sensor and discovered that it had only had one loose bolt holding it in. the nub (looks like a pencil lead) apparently has been making contact with the fly wheel. only about a...

had that problem. I believe it's called an acuator. on the transfer case were the vacuum lines hook up. pulled the lines and took it off. the rod at the end was stuck (looks like a big ball bearing). took one off of another transfer case,slapped it in works fine now. I got the jeep FREE probably...