Recent content by lpennock

Drive line angle is pretty easy to measure. You can get a harbor freight magnetic angle finder or you can make one with a string, weight and protractor. Position you drive shaft so the ujoint cap on diff side of the ujoint is pointing down. Measure the angle from horizontal of the end of the...

Some axles have the inner threaded sleave and some don't. The ones that have the sleeve work better with offset ball joints as you can get a offset sleeve for the lower and use a offset joint for the upper. This allows you to keep the axle centered in the housing. The ones without the sleeve...

The 5.5 degrees in the chart is a trade off between caster and driveline angle. The factory spec for caster is about 7 degrees and for drive line angle is 0-2 degrees. As you lift the jeep the drive line angle gets worse so you have to rotate the axle to compensate. This results in you caster...

First I would recommend getting the Hella E-Code rather than the vision plus. The Vision plus have the American Blob pattern rather than the better Euro pattern. The Euro pattern puts a flat sheet of light out on low beam that doesn't have any hot spots. It also has a 5 degree up sweep on the...

Just make sure you don't get the caster too low or you won't be able to keep it going straight down the road. I've run as much as 5 degree u-joint angle without significant vibration but staying a 3 degrees or less is better. You really don't want to get your caster below 2-3 degrees or it...

Actually spring wrap is a different animal but does also affect the squat/rise. In spring wrap the axle actually rotates even if the relationship to the body doesn't change. This results in the pinion turning upward under acceleration. Depending on the springs and the amount of acceleration...

It also has to do with body squat or rise under acceleration so even thought the axle doesn't wrap you may want a little static angle to compensate for body rise.

Re: Aftermarket Headlights How is the low/high beam done? Moving shield, dip bulb, Halogen High, no high? Personally I wouldn't do 6000K bulbs but people need to understand the setup of them.

You really don't need 4 relays. You only need one for High beam and one for low beam. Even with 150W bulbs you only pull 25 amps total which is within the 30A relay handling. Mount the relays close to the lights and run equal length of 12 Ga to the lights and 10 or 12 ga to the battery...

My mistake on your numbers. You said Camber I was thinking caster. The camber you have is a little off but I don't think I would worry. Normal range is around -.75 to +.5. With your specs it shouldn't be that bad to drive. I'm running pretty similar numbers and mine drives fine but I am...

It has been a few years since I priced them but I seem to remember they were about $60 per joint just for the part. Sure you aren't at +1.1. If you were at -1.1 you would be fighting just to keep it going straight down the road. The wheels would want to flop to one side.

With too little caster your wheel will not want to stay centered and you will wander. When you make turns you will have to manually return the wheel to center. But to put it in perspective my old J10 only had 4 degrees of caster per factory specs. Another option to consider is to use offset...

9 degrees of pinion angle on a SYE will cause the symptoms you describe. You want less than 3 degrees. With the lack of axle wrap the slinky conversion provides I would try for 0-1 degree. Most likely on the front you are going to need to get down around 2-3 degrees of caster to eliminate the...

1/8" thick shim between the shift lever and the stop when you pull it all the way into 4Lo. make sure the case is fully in 4Lo and lock the linkage down.

I've built my own kits for under $20 but for $10 difference it would be worth just getting a kit so you don't have to spend time finding the headlight connector.