Recent content by FusiliJerry

An FYI for posterity; the listed part number for XJs is 4792112 and discontinued. However, 4792112AE, listed for early 2000s Intrepid, Cirrus, Sebring, etc. is the same exact pulley and still available as of writing. Purchased and installed in my 2001 so I can verify it works fine.

Doubling back, I didn't find the need to pull the manifold out at all; I just moved it aside let it float. Wasn't even an issue considering I went to an all stud kit (Boostwerks Titanium).

So the shoulder/neck is of little actual importance? I have an Ace near me with a good selection of bolts.

I am getting things ready to do an in-frame refresh of my 4.0. I cannot find ANYWHERE, the shouldered bolts that connect each exhaust manifold to the 2 separate cats. They are pictured in the listing for a manifold here: Rock Auto Listing Does anyone know where I can find them?

This was precisely my worry, thanks for your account of it.

Fair point, didn't know it was 60mm.

Interesting. Being I'm not planning to do headers or exhaust any time soon, it sounds like it may not be worth the trouble at the moment. Being the stock intake inlet is 64mm or near enough, its always made me wonder what might be left on the table by throttle body restriction alone.

If the CPS is also not NTK or Mopar, I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it even if new. An Autozone one in a friend's '98 lasted all of one week. If it were fuel pressure, you may be able to test by turning the key to run for about 5 seconds then back to off off, do it back and forth...

I assume you mean the one with the integrated full width brush guard and the built-in turn signals? Shame to hear a negative account of one, I've been pining for one since I got my XJ. I've seen them painted body color and they almost look like they could have been part of some factory offroad...

Whatever you do don't buy "remanufactured" injectors. They will fail unexpectedly soon but not so soon as to make you at all nervous about driving a 100 mile trip, during which it will stick open and dump wicked amounts of fuel into the exhaust and oil sump. Ask me how I know.

I doubt it would "fix" what's described and I've no experience with the AX15 specifically, but on the BITOG forums there are many accounts of improve shifting, reduced noise, & smoothness in older manuals that spec 80w-90, ATF, or 10w30 when switching to a synchromesh fluid or "MT" manual...

If he were to get a Vanco Big Brake kit with their "universal knuckle", can he use their pre-machined 99+ unit bearings? If so and there is a want for better brakes now may be the time to pull the trigger. I wish I had done so before I installed BCA stock replacement bearings without a means...

Has anyone felt the pedal feel of a Pre-94 master cylinder (15/16) with a dual-diaphragm booster in addition to a stock 97+ (1" master) setup? My understanding of master cylinder sizing is that while a larger bore pushes more fluid, the pedal will remain harder and higher with more required...

While you have the front driveshaft off, check your front yoke/pinion for play in/out (vs. rotational). Loose pinion and/or bad pinion bearings can cause weird vibrations.

Another positive review for a TrueTrac. Also I went from dino 5k or so miles in to synthetic to zero apparent affect to the lockup, against Eaton's prescription. If you're worried about synthetic 75W-90 being too thin, try 75w-110.