Recent content by br1anstorm

Well, an update for anyone who happens to read this thread. With a heavy heart, I have sold my XJ after 28 years of ownership. The finances just didn't stack up. Welding and replacing all the rusty areas would have cost a great deal of money (it's work I don't have the skill to do). New...

I've been a member of this forum for many years. I have browsed for advice and tech tips, posted help requests, and got a lot of useful help and support. But I have reached crunch time with my XJ. It is - sadly - getting close to end-of-life. The dreaded rust has taken a hold. I don't have...

That's the most promising and joyful message I've had all week. Better even than the wife shouting "Supper's ready" when I'm out in the garage! I am almost certain a '96 bezel will fit my '93 Jeep. I think the "facelift" XJ arrived in '97. That later version had more rounded corners, and...

Thanks .... I've just had a look. It might just be an option, though it will cost more than 10 bucks! Amazon.com (the US site) quotes the price for one bezel at USD 19.88, plus USD 6.49 shipping and USD 5.28 VAT (UK tax). Total USD 31.65, or GB Pounds 24.88. Amazon.co.uk (the UK site) lists...

I have a 1993 XJ 4.0 litre Sport..... I've owned it since new, but am finding it increasingly difficult to keep it going as old age (the Jeep, as well as me!) takes its toll. The additional problem is that it's a LHD US-spec vehicle, and I'm in the UK. With the help of the NAXJA forum I've...

Thanks for the further comments. I've looked at the throttle body and IAC and plan to clean them anyway... But I'm finding it difficult - as a non-expert - to figure out exactly where all the vacuum lines are before I start trying to check them. The diagrams and images I have found on line...

Thanks for those helpful replies. Looks as if the first, or next, things to do are (1) to check for vacuum leaks - I hope I can identify all the possible locations and hoses/pipes/connections! And then (2) to check and probably clean out the throttle body and the IAC - on which there are...

Eh? Not quite clear how this comment relates to the 3-page thread discussion from 2018.

I have a 1993 XJ with 4.0 H.O. engine (ie non-Renix). Owned since new, no engine modifications, has had new ignition coil but few other replacement engine-parts aside from routine filters etc. Mileage now 178,000, but it has not been heavily used off-road. Until recently the engine has run...

Well, time for an update, and it seems the problem is (almost) solved. Long story short, it turns out that it was the blue plastic Wagner 224 that was faulty. With all the swapping over of the two flasher units (blue Wagner 224 and silver Wagner 552) to see what worked and what didn't, I was -...

I'm still having problems troubleshooting this (not least because I'm no expert at using ohmmeter/voltage-meter). The bulb-sockets all seem fine - I think. I have tried to test the hazard flasher unit socket in the fusebox. I assumed one terminal-socket would be live when the hazard switch...

Thanks 8Mud for that detailed advice. I'll dig out a meter and do what I can to test ground connections and voltages in the way you suggest. Just to respond on the other points.... I don't at present have an extra ground connection (or as we call it, an "earth strap") from battery negative to...

Since it looks as if the rubber-flap air-deflectors were OEM genuine Jeep factory parts, and the vehicle had an oil-cooler fitted as well, but no tow hitch, I wonder if that particular vehicle was built to Middle East spec for use in hot climates? I believe Jeep XJs were built or assembled in...

Well here's an update - and the mystery is still not solved! I've been round all six of the bulb-connections. The two front corner ones inside the orange plastic reflectors are clean and sound. The front flashers (which in my Jeep are re-wired into what was originally the white sidelight...

Rob - that's a really coherent and persuasive diagnosis. The point about circuits pulling more current than normal because of dodgy connections seems credible. Since swapping around the relays hasn't solved the problem but just revealed some possible clues, clearly it makes sense to check out...