Recent content by 4xBob

You are in California, so may not have to fight immovable front leaf spring bolts that break loose the captive nut inside the frame rail.......but, you are courting a real headache! What I did was leave the factory original leaf in place, then cut the end loops of the new (used OEM) main leaf...

2001 XJ is 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern, same as earlier years.

Cruiser54: "Have a new headpipe built and re-routed eliminating the restrictive "crush" there." I would like to do this....any details on how to reroute it? Where should it run?

Both times mine did that, it needed a new Throttle Position Sensor. Now on my third at 330, 000 km/ 220,000 miles.

A 1990 XJ has a single diaphragm brake booster. Sometime later (around early to mid-90s) they went to a dual diaphragm booster, for better braking. I replaced the single with a dual from a 1995 or 1996 XJ and improved the braking. You must use the booster from a 1995 or 1996: later years the...

You're good as you are. For bolts, SAE grade 5 is roughly equivalent to metric grade 8.8, and SAE grade 8 is roughly equivalent to metric grade 10.9. Your replacement bolt is also bigger than the stock size, as well as being about the right strength class. When my track bar axle bracket hole...

I used a propane torch to heat up the bushing metal outer shell, then punched out the molten, gooey rubber chunk. This leaves the metal shell in the mount. If using the urethane bushings, they slide into the metal shells (after the rubber residue is cleaned out-more torch and a cotton cloth...

On my '90, I replaced a failed seat belt buckle with one from a chevy pickup, from the rear seat on an extended cab model. The guy at the truck wreckers said it would fit, and it works perfectly. I don't have the wire for the idiot light function, but that just means the light won't come on for...

I have the Bosch H4 headlights on my 1990 XJ and I just installed IPF H4 headlights on the 2001 XJ. Both are running stock wattage 55/60 watt bulbs, both Hella brand, on stock wiring. I have aimed both, using the same method. This provides a fair comparison, without confounding factors. Result...

It's way past time somebody posted a reminder to use anti-seize on suspension bolts if you live in rust (salt on winter roads) country- unless you enjoy breaking the same bolts again next time....always sooner than you think, too!

The XJ 4.0 engine uses a reverse rotation water pump. If you were given a standard-rotation pump, as used on some other vehicles with the 4.0, then you will not get fluid movement that is needed. Something to check- Try googling the part number for the water pump, or ask the vendor.

Every high-idle episode that I have had on my 1990 4.0 Renix XJ has been from a dying TPS. Adjusting the idle screw just covers up the problem...... you need a properly-functioning TPS to manage the engine, and to manage the transmission shift points if you have the automatic AW4.

Yes, that's for on-center slack adjustment. DO NOT MESS WITH IT! If you over-adjust it, the steering can bind and lock up on center.........followed by a big crunch! The right way to do it is as per the factory service manual- take the steering gear off the jeep, adjust the large ring on the end...

Every mid-90s XJ that I have seen with an auto has the Aisin-Warner 4 speed (AW4). There is also a Toyota application of this same tranny, Toyota calls it the A340. Your number 30-43LE sounds like a number for a Chrysler tranny, as used in jeeps other than XJ Cherokees. Something is amiss.

That's a classic Crankshaft Position Sensor(CPS) failure. The CPS is the one at 11 o'clock on the bell housing. It is no fun to get at it, but can be done if you are in the right position. Next time it does it, try the unplug/reconnect at the harness connector located at the rear driver's side...