Replacing a Blown Engine - Documenting with Pics / Share Advice

Tony_SS

Tony_SS

NAXJA Supporting Vendor
Location
Washington MO
The story goes, I bought this with a slight knock. All vitals were fine. One day I dropped the hammer and it blew, so this is me replacing the engine. I might need some help along the way too, and maybe this will also help others.

Here is the subject: 2000 XJ. 155k miles.
l6XX46ys.jpg


Looks nice, too bad a rod formed an escape route.
vrBW46ys.jpg


Makin' progress
CXFW46ys.jpg


Pretty much ready to pull the block (The battery tray and air box make GREAT tool holders!)
qxPW46ys.jpg


New casting from J&C enterprises.
MVgY46ys.jpg


New short block from a local engine builder: Shreves
MQlX46ys.jpg


Here's a good place to store all the stuff to put back on (its a lot more full now)
zqvX46ys.jpg


The front seat is housing all the new parts
bD2X46ys.jpg


Rock Auto magnet I get with the parts
l2cX46ys.jpg


My side work station
CcBX46ys.jpg


It's pretty cramped in here. 16" Moab's waiting to go on.
zvqY46ys.jpg


Some goon who thinks he knows what he's doing
HbvY46ys.jpg


Piston remains
RKXW46ys.jpg


This was all in my oil pan
v02Y46ys.jpg



Do you think I should get a new oil pan with all that metal that was in it, or just clean it out really good?

Feel free to offer any other advice as I pull the engine. I think I need to support the transmission with a jack or strap.

Also, since the head is off, I should be able to get to those E12's. I haven't tried yet.
 
Just clean the pan thoroughly.
 
Great thread! I wonder what caused it to blow a rod through the side. That sucks! With those new parts and new engine it will surely run for a long time, the body looks to be in good shape.

I'll be following this thread! :wave:
 
joe_peters said:
Just clean the pan thoroughly.
Click to expand...

It's like glitter in there... I hate the fact that if I miss a spot, it could get into a brand new short block. But I don't want to end up with an aftermarket pan that doesn't fit worth a crap either... I'll try cleaning it really well. Any suggestion on the best way to do that? I don't have a parts cleaning bin w/solvent/etc.

jeepkid03 said:
Great thread! I wonder what caused it to blow a rod through the side. That sucks! With those new parts and new engine it will surely run for a long time, the body looks to be in good shape.

I'll be following this thread! :wave:
Click to expand...

The head must have been cracked, taking out the bearings, allowing the rod to knock and break the piston. The whole top of the piston shattered and when it did, it let the rod go through the side of the block.
 
Tony_SS said:
It's like glitter in there... I hate the fact that if I miss a spot, it could get into a brand new short block. But I don't want to end up with an aftermarket pan that doesn't fit worth a crap either... I'll try cleaning it really well. Any suggestion on the best way to do that? I don't have a parts cleaning bin w/solvent/etc.



The head must have been cracked, taking out the bearings, allowing the rod to knock and break the piston. The whole top of the piston shattered and when it did, it let the rod go through the side of the block.
Click to expand...

Piston skirts on later xj's are known to break causing the knocking noise then complete failure, same thing happened to my 98, hole in the block and all, id sudgest for those doing a motor swap in the future to pull the header panel and radiator, makes things so much easier. Nice write up so far.
 
to take out the radiator you are going to need to pull the header panel ... once you start at it you'll see why ... and once you see how easy it all comes apart ... you'll wonder why you didn't sooner.

with the header panel out of the way and the rad gone you have a retarded amount of access to the motor.
 
Take the pan to a machine shop and have them tank it for you--around here that would run about $15; or rent a pressure washer and have at it.
 
Like a dummy I started cleaning my oil pan with brake cleaner. The black coating started to bubble and flake.. I also found rust on the outside. Putting in a new engine and using this would be like putting on dirty underwear out of the shower. I got a new pan and valve cover.

Last night I got the e12 bolts off. Since I have the head removed, I was able to put a 5/16" (I think) 12 point wrench back there and use a pry bar to turn it. The other one I used the wrench and put a block of wood on it and hit it with a sledge hammer to break it loose. This was after I broke some cheap e12 wrench... so that's what worked for me.

As for the other things, there is the myths floating around that the front header must be pulled to remove the radiator - that's not true either.

I'll post up progress pics and maybe a video to help anyone who needs to do this. It's going pretty good so far. And WD-40 penetrating rust remover is much better than PB blaster I'm finding out.

One thing I'm a little worried about is putting the new short block on an engine stand... I got some grade 8 bolts for the housing, but all that front end weight on those 4 bolts????
 
I used to have a 300-6 sitting on an engine stand for three years ... never so much as a bent bolt. It weighs in another 150lbs more than the 4.0, I wouldn't worry about it if the bolts are good and kept tight to spec. A bottle jack can also be used to support the nose if it concerns you that much.

If you pulled the rad out with the header on (guess I shouldn't have said couldn't so much as don't bother) ... you are only two bolts away from pulling the header (not counting the pulling the grill and headlight trim which is a quick couple of screws). It really does make life a thousand times easier ... you'll like yourself more in the end. makes futtzing with the front of the motor easy as pie especially when the block comes out. I used to cringe at the idea myself but after the first time I couldn't understand why I didn't do it before.
 
Yes I pulled a headlight to see how easy it was to pull the header, but you are forgetting about the A/C condenser in front. I can't just pull that off since the system is under pressure.

BTW, I wasn't picking on you, other guys have said I needed to pull the header to pull out the radiator, including the previous owner, just fyi.
 
Take the condenser off the rad, strap it up and work around it, or disconnect it. U will regret not pulling the front clip.

It's hard enough to pop that big ol motor in that little area with the front clip off
 
Tony_SS said:
I'm going to take out the radiator, but am going to try and leave on the header panel, if that's possible.
Click to expand...
It is. There is just enough clearance beween the header panel and the harmonic balancer.

Devilfrog said:
to take out the radiator you are going to need to pull the header panel
Click to expand...
errr.. what?

stockli said:
Take the condenser off the rad, strap it up and work around it, or disconnect it. U will regret not pulling the front clip.

It's hard enough to pop that big ol motor in that little area with the front clip off
Click to expand...
Condenser can stay where it as the header panel. Pulling just the engine (from harmonic balancer to flex plate) there is enough room just by removing the radiator. It also helps if you rotate the engine when it is being installed.
 
Personally, I would recommend that you support the front of the engine on the stand. I built my motor last summer for my '99 XJ. I had it on the stand for 2 months while I built it, acquired parts, etc. I was in the process of hooking up chains to it to move it from the stand to the lift when the unthinkable happened:

IMAG0081.jpg


Luckily, I found an awesome welder who was able to fix this for me as it was a clean break and the threads were intact. We put the piece back on, with the bolt threaded in and then welded it. I created a "strap/bracket" out of flat stock that I wrapped tightly around this "ear" and then bolted it through the webbing in the block in two places. I've run it, hard, for a year now w/ no issues.

ETA: A little motivation:

IMAG0078.jpg
 
Re: Re: Replacing a Blown Engine - Documenting with Pics / Share Advice

notamos said:
Personally, I would recommend that you support the front of the engine on the stand. I built my motor last summer for my '99 XJ. I had it on the stand for 2 months while I built it, acquired parts, etc. I was in the process of hooking up chains to it to move it from the stand to the lift when the unthinkable happened:

IMAG0081.jpg


Luckily, I found an awesome welder who was able to fix this for me as it was a clean break and the threads were intact. We put the piece back on, with the bolt threaded in and then welded it. I created a "strap/bracket" out of flat stock that I wrapped tightly around this "ear" and then bolted it through the webbing in the block in two places. I've run it, hard, for a year now w/ no issues.

ETA: A little motivation:

IMAG0078.jpg
Click to expand...

That is worst case scenario! How many f bombs did you drop? Lol
 
supertubesocks said:
That is worst case scenario! How many f bombs did you drop? Lol
Click to expand...

Funny you should ask. I cussed/screamed/punched so much stuff I had to go in the house, take a Xanax (or three!) and go to sleep. I actually puked over it.

After asking various lists (naxja, jeepforum, etc.), talking to welders, etc. - everyone said it was f'd. I finally found a seasoned welder w/ the correct rods who was willing to take it on (at my house nonetheless!). After he was done and I did my cleanup, you couldn't even tell. I added the strap to reinforce it and make myself feel better.
 
Oh man!!! Thanks for the heads up. After this, I plan on putting a jackstand to support the front.

Glad you got it resolved. Love the Chevy Orange too... looks great. Thanks for posting pics.
 
That sucks.I woulda needed a family sized bottle of Xanax..I've had a few large inline 6's on stands with no problems. Has this ever happened to anyone else ?
 
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