true or fals

crazy xj

NAXJA Forum User
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can you use the front drive shaft out of a xj and use it with a hack n tap from rubicon express on a 91 xj with a np 231 case? Some say yes and som say no, so which is it? :dunno:
 
Depends on your rear end as well. A Dana 35 pinion is shorter so the shaft won't work. If you have a Chrysler 8.25 then you are good to go. Make sure you get the shaft out of an AUTO.
 
Shouldn't, the wheel base is the same.
 
One thing about this is that the front shaft diameter is pretty small compared to a regular rear driveshaft. I ended up having a custom shaft made locally and the thing is stout. Much bigger than the front shaft I was going to use. Most have no issues with the front shaft though.
 
rear shaft = large diameter and thin wall
that don't mean its any stronger than the;
front shaft = smaller diameter thicker wall

this is usually a project done to conserve some coin (or only option for 242, other than GoJeep method), getting a new shaft built can be $$.
 
this is usually a project done to conserve some coin (or only option for 242, other than GoJeep method), getting a new shaft built can be $$.
I always saw the advantage being only carrying 1 spare driveshaft.
 
I always saw the advantage being only carrying 1 spare driveshaft.
That only works with a HD kit not a H/n/T kit!
 
True, but one could just carry the flange adaptor


Not true. You have to disassemble the CV and reassemble with the flange style end, which is a pain in the ass on the bench - forget trying to do it on the trail.

There is a reason the majority of jeep owners spends $250 to $350 on Tom Wood or JE Reel driveshafts, and its not us trying to show off how fat our wallets are; you get what you pay for.

Stock front driveshafts have puny slipjoints that wear out and cause vibrations LONG before an upgraded driveshaft will, and the slipjoint is at near max extension at ride height, so you will have minimal contact and increased wear to boot.
 
the Porc Sye is under $200 and you can use the stock front driveshaft. Plus it is HD so you get a stronger output shaft. Its just easier to run the same shaft front and rear, and cheaper too. custom shafts = more money. Plus if i break one, i can just source out another one for under 50 bux.
 
Not true. You have to disassemble the CV and reassemble with the flange style end, which is a pain in the ass on the bench - forget trying to do it on the trail.

There is a reason the majority of jeep owners spends $250 to $350 on Tom Wood or JE Reel driveshafts, and its not us trying to show off how fat our wallets are; you get what you pay for.

Stock front driveshafts have puny slipjoints that wear out and cause vibrations LONG before an upgraded driveshaft will, and the slipjoint is at near max extension at ride height, so you will have minimal contact and increased wear to boot.

it will take me about a dozen worn/broken front shafts in my rear to justify the cost of a tom woods, in 2 years i am on my second shaft.
 
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