Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Meh, you'll be ordering coil-overs within a year.
-
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Daily Driver Build and Plan - Jay's WIP
- Thread starter J308
- Start date
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
Locker's...8.8 swap...frame stiffeners and going doorless! 
Ok, so got the heater blowing again!!!
I checked the fuse, and it was a melted 30 where there was supposed to be a 25. Took the rear wiper fuse out (it's broken anyway) and stuck it into slot #5 IIRC. Then I replaced the resistor in the passenger footwell. Nothing doing, and I figured it was the motor when I saw the fuse, but the resistor was rusted anyway...
So I pulled the washer reservoir...
Then pulled the blower motor:
Hooked it to 12v, barely spun.
Hooked the new motor up to 12v and it was moving good. So I started swapping the blower fan. I removed the clip, but the old wheel wouldn't slide off.
I used the jack handle tool to work as a holder:
... while I tapped the center shaft with a hammer, LIGHTLY, then used a punch to push it all the way out. Step on the jack handle to keep it stable.
I went ahead and spliced it in. Black to black and green to red for the Advance Auto unit.
Don't forget the heatshrink!
Now is a good time to plug it in and test it out with the actual switch (ON LOW!!!!). Only give it a quick test unless you want to see your squirrel cage (looks more like a hamster wheel to me, but hey, I didn't make it up!) fly off onto the ground.
Reinstallation was a snap compared to removal, but go ahead and use some washers, as the Advance blower motor holes are a bit more "universal" than the factory holes.
Zip tie the wire (no need to be incredibly tight here...), reinstall the washer bottle, then admire your heavy valve cover gasket leak!
Almost done, so sit in your Jeep and test out the blower speeds. Everything working like a champ so far, but I turned it off after a few seconds so I can see if there is any type of break-in procedure to extend the life.
Finally, become a
member so you can bask in the glory of red-named greatness, and roll down the street smokin indo, sippin on gin and juice!
I checked the fuse, and it was a melted 30 where there was supposed to be a 25. Took the rear wiper fuse out (it's broken anyway) and stuck it into slot #5 IIRC. Then I replaced the resistor in the passenger footwell. Nothing doing, and I figured it was the motor when I saw the fuse, but the resistor was rusted anyway...
So I pulled the washer reservoir...
Then pulled the blower motor:
Hooked it to 12v, barely spun.
Hooked the new motor up to 12v and it was moving good. So I started swapping the blower fan. I removed the clip, but the old wheel wouldn't slide off.
I used the jack handle tool to work as a holder:
... while I tapped the center shaft with a hammer, LIGHTLY, then used a punch to push it all the way out. Step on the jack handle to keep it stable.
I went ahead and spliced it in. Black to black and green to red for the Advance Auto unit.
Don't forget the heatshrink!
Now is a good time to plug it in and test it out with the actual switch (ON LOW!!!!). Only give it a quick test unless you want to see your squirrel cage (looks more like a hamster wheel to me, but hey, I didn't make it up!) fly off onto the ground.
Reinstallation was a snap compared to removal, but go ahead and use some washers, as the Advance blower motor holes are a bit more "universal" than the factory holes.
Zip tie the wire (no need to be incredibly tight here...), reinstall the washer bottle, then admire your heavy valve cover gasket leak!
Almost done, so sit in your Jeep and test out the blower speeds. Everything working like a champ so far, but I turned it off after a few seconds so I can see if there is any type of break-in procedure to extend the life.
Finally, become a
member so you can bask in the glory of red-named greatness, and roll down the street smokin indo, sippin on gin and juice!
Last edited:
- Location
- Columbus, In
Finally, become a
Laid back......
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
He's red!!!
arty:
arty:Updated Index:
Mechanical issues:
Suspension and lift w/ full leaf pack. (done 2/18/2012)
Fan clutch for temp climbing while stopped (done 2/18/2012)
ZJ Tie Rod upgrade (done 2/18/2012)
Battery cables and ground cables.
Coolant flush.
Fluid changes. (diff, trans x3, oil...)
Headlamp upgrade, cheap and bright.
Fix reverse lights, Tim said probably the N/S switch needs cleaning
Get the blower motor working. (done 3/1/2012)
Fix exterior leaks and passenger front window regulator.
Fix rust and reinstall carpet.
Bump stops.
Aux lighting.
Optima battery, not sure which one yet.
ZJ discs + rear locker or 8.8 w/discs... ?
*U-joints at the same time.
31 inch tires, probably BFG ATs but open to suggestions.
*Replace lugs and probably studs. Mine have been WAY overtorqued.
*Maybe some Eccos at the same time.
Somewhere in there, fix the cosmetic issues:
Clearance the fenders and raise the flares, going for OEM+ look here.
Get most of the dents out, but I'd rather have a small wave than a hunk of filler.
Recover headliner.
Budget speaker upgrade, doors and soundbar.
LED lighting wherever reasonable.
Clean and re-dye the interior parts if necessary.
ZJ seat upgrade.
Replace grille.
Replace and possibly upgrade bumpers.
Fix peeling door window moldings (the black plastic covered chrome pieces)
Paint.
Windshield.
This is slow going. Weather and other commitments this weekend have hampered my ability to get my coolant flush done.
I MUST get the coolant flush, overcharging fix, and rust repair done ASAP if I'm going to get this beast DD worthy. I'm just writing this down to remind myself to focus. CRAP.
Mechanical issues:
Suspension and lift w/ full leaf pack. (done 2/18/2012)
Fan clutch for temp climbing while stopped (done 2/18/2012)
ZJ Tie Rod upgrade (done 2/18/2012)
Battery cables and ground cables.
Coolant flush.
Fluid changes. (diff, trans x3, oil...)
Headlamp upgrade, cheap and bright.
Fix reverse lights, Tim said probably the N/S switch needs cleaning
Get the blower motor working. (done 3/1/2012)
Fix exterior leaks and passenger front window regulator.
Fix rust and reinstall carpet.
Bump stops.
Aux lighting.
Optima battery, not sure which one yet.
ZJ discs + rear locker or 8.8 w/discs... ?
*U-joints at the same time.
31 inch tires, probably BFG ATs but open to suggestions.
*Replace lugs and probably studs. Mine have been WAY overtorqued.
*Maybe some Eccos at the same time.
Somewhere in there, fix the cosmetic issues:
Clearance the fenders and raise the flares, going for OEM+ look here.
Get most of the dents out, but I'd rather have a small wave than a hunk of filler.
Recover headliner.
Budget speaker upgrade, doors and soundbar.
LED lighting wherever reasonable.
Clean and re-dye the interior parts if necessary.
ZJ seat upgrade.
Replace grille.
Replace and possibly upgrade bumpers.
Fix peeling door window moldings (the black plastic covered chrome pieces)
Paint.
Windshield.
This is slow going. Weather and other commitments this weekend have hampered my ability to get my coolant flush done.
I MUST get the coolant flush, overcharging fix, and rust repair done ASAP if I'm going to get this beast DD worthy. I'm just writing this down to remind myself to focus. CRAP.
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
Yeah the weather wasn't good for doing much work this weekend. I really wish it would stop raining on the weekends already...
Minor setback yesterday. I took off the suspect positive battery cable, cleaned, opened it up, reinstalled and tightened it down... and it's still charging to 18v.
The cable end is black already despite being a couple of weeks old. That means it's getting too hot from what I understand.
The previous one that I had to replace was black, and disintgrated when I touched it. So now I'm putting 2+2 together and I think it was overcharging when I bought it, I just didn't notice it with the temp gauge climbing.
The cable end is black already despite being a couple of weeks old. That means it's getting too hot from what I understand.
The previous one that I had to replace was black, and disintgrated when I touched it. So now I'm putting 2+2 together and I think it was overcharging when I bought it, I just didn't notice it with the temp gauge climbing.
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
I have to wonder if the regulator in the alternator has decided to stop regulating...
Might want to address that ASAP before you wind up seeing this...:flame:
Might want to address that ASAP before you wind up seeing this...:flame:
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
What year is your jeep again?
1994. And yeah Tim I am not driving it. Took it to the car wash 1 mile away this morning to rinse the engine so I could see things a bit more clearly and spot fresh leaks, but that is it.
I'm concerned that I'll put new HD cables, a fresh battery, etc, and end up causing damage to them, so everything is on hold until I pull the Alt and have it bench tested.
I'm concerned that I'll put new HD cables, a fresh battery, etc, and end up causing damage to them, so everything is on hold until I pull the Alt and have it bench tested.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Those are regualted by the engine computer IIRC.
Yeah, I read that too.
I've done some research, but not much on that I could find.
justanswer lists the following from a Chrysler Master Tech:
Expert: Dave replied 1218 days and 17 hours ago.
So looks like I won't bother to pull the Alt. I might try cables and see what I have. I also read somewhere a while ago that a short in the battery would produce this same symptom.
I've done some research, but not much on
that I could find.justanswer lists the following from a Chrysler Master Tech:
Expert: Dave replied 1218 days and 17 hours ago.
So yeah. I'm tempted to get an HD cable pack if there is one that replaces those grounds also. I know my + and - cables are damaged/frayed, and have open frays, not touching anything, but unsheathed at the terminals.
So looks like I won't bother to pull the Alt. I might try cables and see what I have. I also read somewhere a while ago that a short in the battery would produce this same symptom.
Ok, update on the Heep overcharging issue.
I cleaned off a couple more of the ground contacts, no results. Gauge still reading 18v.
See this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1080630 I posted it in the main OEM tech to get more exposure, but am linking it here for those who are actively following my troubleshooting efforts.
Long-story-short: I took it to Advance and had them put it on the meter. It read 14.53 to 14.58 depending on load.... So the gauge is wacky and I need suggestions.
I cleaned off a couple more of the ground contacts, no results. Gauge still reading 18v.
See this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1080630 I posted it in the main OEM tech to get more exposure, but am linking it here for those who are actively following my troubleshooting efforts.
Long-story-short: I took it to Advance and had them put it on the meter. It read 14.53 to 14.58 depending on load.... So the gauge is wacky and I need suggestions.
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
I'll stand by my "add an auxiliary gauge and run with it" post from OEM Tech.
What you're getting to the gauge is always lower than what's getting to the battery (longer circuit to the gauge)-- so if the gauge reads higher than whats at the battery, the gauge is A.F.U.
If you don't use the cigarette lighter in the dash, you can use that circuit for an aftermarket volt meter-- it's much shorter of a circuit than the dash gauges and switched with the ignition to shut off with the key. My dash gauge reads 4.5V below the actual system voltage and the aftermarket volt meter is almost exact using the lighter circuit.
What you're getting to the gauge is always lower than what's getting to the battery (longer circuit to the gauge)-- so if the gauge reads higher than whats at the battery, the gauge is A.F.U.
If you don't use the cigarette lighter in the dash, you can use that circuit for an aftermarket volt meter-- it's much shorter of a circuit than the dash gauges and switched with the ignition to shut off with the key. My dash gauge reads 4.5V below the actual system voltage and the aftermarket volt meter is almost exact using the lighter circuit.
This is a good plan. I'm going to run it for now, and pay attention to where it is at and if it changes. If I have any issues, blowing fuses, gauge going up, etc. then I'll speed up the hunt for a cheap aux gauge. :viking:
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
How's it coming along????
