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First & last tool set, my thoughts.

yossarian19

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grass Valley, CA
Figured this might be useful to somebody...
I've bought & used multiple sets of tools, both as an amateur and a professional mechanic. Here's what I'd recommend to the new DIYer / hobbyist, or pro for that matter.
First, I recommend against Snap-On, Mac or Matco tools with a few exceptions.
Craftsman makes all the quality you need, especially the "Professional" line of tools.
To start off, you'll want:
1 set Craftsman 1/4 drive 6 point metric sockets
1 set Craftsman 3/8 drive 6 point metric impact sockets
1 set Craftsman 1/2 drive 6 point metric impact sockets
1 Craftsman 3/8 drive 13mm 12pt impact socket (for unit bearing bolts)
1 Craftsman or parts store cheapo 36mm 6pt 1/2" drive deep well socket (for axle nuts)
1 Set Craftsman Professional combination wrenches, metric, + 21, 22, 24mm wrenches. Either Craftsman Pro, regular Craftsman or Ebay some Matco, Mac or Snap-On
For ratchets / breaker bars, I like the big name stuff. Craftsman's high end ratchets have a nice action, just as nice as the big names really, but don't have the length. I'd start with
18" 1/2 drive ratchet, big name brand
10" 3/8 ratchet, big name. Orbital head is nice but not necessary
6-7" 3/8 ratchet, big name or high end craftsman
1/4" ratchet, big name or high end craftsman.
Drive accessories... start with Craftsman impact extensions in 1/2 and 3/8, plain chrome stuff in 1/4. I haven't yet found a set of locking extensions that last worth a damn, Craftsman or Snap On. Go impact with universal joints & your 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. Go with the impact stuff even if you don't have a compressor or impact gun. It's heavier duty & if you oneday get a compressor & gun, you won't break your sockets or have to buy a new set.

Now for pliers..
I prefer Knipex. They are spendy but in my experience the money is well spent. Whatever you do, don't buy cheap channel lock pliers. You will hurt yourself when you really crank on them and the joint slips out of place, whether or not the pivot nut is tight. Trust me on this one. I'd start with
1 18" pair channel locks
1 10" pair channel locks
1 8" pair slip joint pliers
1 pair needle nose
1 pair 8" cutters. Can never remember if I mean "diagonal" or "side" cutters.
There are more specialty pliers that I've bought and used but this is the basic set that will get the job done. Hose pliers, hose clamp pliers, long pliers, spark plug boot pliers... they are all handy, but I prefer to buy tools once I've got an established need for them. Cheaper that way. You may never do enough work consistently enough to bother with the specialty crap.

Pry bars. Used carefully, these will be your best friends. Used recklessly, you will get hurt and damage parts.
Buy yourself a set of Mayhew pry bars off amazon. From what I gather, Mayhew (made in USA) supplies the big name brands with theirs. Why pay Snap-On prices for a Mayhew bar?
Hammers. Again- be careful...
Pick the biggest ball peen hammer that you can swing comfortably. Buy it.
Now get another that is maybe 1/2 the size. You'll want this one more than you might think.
Get a 2 lb plastic or rubber mallet.
Now a hand sledge. These can be hard to use effectively but when you need a BFH nothing else will suffice but a 2 lb 18"+ hammer. Jeeps being Jeeps, you'll use this one plenty.
A small (under 10 pc) set of drifts / punches and a small set of metal chisels will help, too. Sometimes you need more focused energy than a hammer alone will give you.

Torque wrenches... there are a few good threads on torque wrenches on this site. I went with Ebay snap on for my 3/8" wrench and have been happy. Note that you don't need to use a torque wrench or everything but it's damned handy, and will help teach you the proper "feel" of a tightened bolt in various sizes. If you are clumsy / neurotic like me, it's all too easy to strip / break bolts while you anxiously wonder if it's tight enough, torquing all the while. A torque wrench will hasten the learning process.
Get a few five gallon buckets with lids & a 2 gallon drip tray for changing fluids.
I recommend old pie tins, coffee cans and bits of tupperware to put hardware in. Magnetic trays are also nice. 3x5 index cards are also handy so in a larger project, you can write things like "valve cover" and throw that note, as well as the valve cover hardware, into a can. No memory required if you leave yourself a clue.
Get a MAP torch. May as well get a torch head that will burn MAP safely as well as propane. MAP is hotter and hotter sometimes = better.

From here... you've got all the hardware to get jobs done. Now it's the know-how.
Don't be bashful about asking for help. The forum is a damned helpful place if you come correct, meaning, humbly and without attitude.
 
Interesting list.

I'd recommend looking into GearWrench 120xp ratchets (they also have an 84 tooth version that is well regarded) as an alternative to tool truck brands but better than the basic Craftsman stuff, and in configurations/lengths similar to the tool truck brands.

I'm also not sure about current Craftsman Professional combo wrenches. They outsourced them to China and they are definitely different, but I haven't really read an unbiased review of the new wrenches to know if they're worth the price premium or if you would be better served by looking to another import. OP, have you used the current wrenches or is your recommendation based on the older US made ones?

Two other options for highly regarded impact sockets/adapters/etc are Gray Pneumatic and Sunex. Not sure I agree with starting out with 3/8" impact sockets since there are times when I need the thinner chrome sockets, but it's not necessarily bad advice either. I'd definitely recommend going straight to impact for the 1/2" drive stuff though, I never use the few chrome sockets I have in 1/2".

Knipex pliers are worth the cost but if you can't swing them, Channellocks are still high quality and made in the USA.

The Craftsman Professional pry bars with striking caps are rebranded Mayhew, but can generally be found cheaper than Mayhew with Sears coupons/rewards/etc.

x100 or so on getting a torque wrench, buy what your budget allows based on what you're using it for (it doesn't make sense to risk ruining a $6K race motor with a 10 dollar torque wrench, but if you're just doing lug nuts, a $10 HF torque wrench will be just fine).

Get magnetic trays from Harbor freight, they run sales pretty regularly and the 4" can usually be had for 2-3 bucks each, and an extra dollar or so for the 6". I have several of both.

Screwdrivers? Craftsman Professional aren't bad, but their standard screw drivers have tips that are much too soft.

Williams hard handles will be my next set for automotive work, and Wera or Wiha for precision work. Lots of options here, and most are better than the standard craftsman stuff.

Also, I would consider a solid floor jack a must. After having 3 Craftsman jacks fail within a couple years, my latest jack is from Harbor Freight. So far so good, but YMMV. There are also Arcan jacks from Costco that are fairly well regarded for a budget level jack that doesn't suck.


Good list, just wanted to add my 2 cents worth.
 
I agree with a lot of what you listed. I might throw a set of tie rod/ball joint seperators in there. I buy the big name guys because they drive to my door and warranty them when I wear them out or break them. However, www.tooltopia.com is my go-to for specialty stuff. Strongly agree that if you can find who makes the product for the big-name guys, buy that.
 
Oh - screwdrivers - I've gone with snap on because for whatever reason, they seem to strip a lot fewer screws than my Craftsman stuff did. Craftsman Pro, though, is probably just fine for most use.
Again, craftsman for torx / star & hex bits. I drank the kool aid and bought Mac... can't say that I see a lot of difference, though, in real usability.
OTC seems to make decent stuff. Not excellent but totally "enough", and reasonably priced. Their ball joint press & Jeep ball joint adapters have already paid for themselves for me. Don't work on WJ / JK lowers, though.
 
Yeah my Mac ones look a lot like my OTC ones...I even have gotten an OTC socket in a Mac set if that tells you anything. As far as ball joint adapters I usually end up welding or cutting on them so I just buy the $70 harbor freight set. I get the OTC press but the adapters are way too expendable to spend too much on. Another thing I would include is a good HIGH IMPEDANCE multi-meter. I like Fluke's but just make sure it is high impedance for testing on computer circuits. Oh yeah and a test light for quick stuff...
 
Yep, I've got my old man's Fluke 73. Been in service for a long, long time - and still has held calibration. Does what I need it to do.

I think in a few situations I've needed a thinner socket than the Craftsman impact but they seem to be limited to sizes like 13 and 19, when i can use an adapter and go down to the next size range.

Sunex is a good tool, especially for the money.

I've got a set of Irwin slip joints that I've been impressed by. Don't know where they are made.

Ebay is also your friend. I mean, if you buy new buy smart. If you are buying used, though, you can go Snap On at a Craftsman budget.
 
I find with impact sockets I wear them out faster than I break them and most trucks won't warranty worn out so why buy expensive? Irwin and Knipex for sure with pliers as well as the classic Channel-lock stuff...
 
I think chrome extensions wear out impact sockets faster than impact extensions, but havnen't got anything but anecdotal evidence for it.
 
Hmm. Haven't had that problem (yet) myself.

Lest it go unsaid - the single most commonly used tool I have is a flashlight. The Stylus Pro is damned good. I spent $150 on a rechargable LED flashlight, which don't get me wrong, is a helluva flashlight. For $20, the Stylus Pro on Amazon is a much more sane option.
 
And just to add you can also look into Stanley tools some of the Stanley stuff is good quality just do your homework. Mac tools is owned by Stanley just dressed up and uncharged
 
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