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Manatee,
Thanks. It won't be 4", probably closer to the 2" that you quote. What new mounts did you buy? I was going to cut a spring perch in half and use the Chevy style shock studs. The question that I am still kicking around is: is raising the shock mounts worth the loss of extension that...
Richard,
I have enjoyed your posts over the years. I have some shock questions that I suspect you have answers for. 1. I just switched to a D44 rear that has the lower shock mounts in the original position. Is it better to use those mounts, and thus a longer shock, or move the mounts up and...
I want to relocate my lower rear shock mounts higher on the axle. My little brain tells me that if I move the shock mount up, let's say 4", that I should now use a shock that is 4" shorter than I used before. Is it really that simple or am I over looking something? Your input is appreciated.
Rockclimber,
Your link shows what appears to be a Currie drag link and a custom tie rod. You mention that the TREs are replaceable. I assume that you are talking about the TREs on the tie rod. You also mention that the drag link is 4340 sprung steel, but I think that you are actually talking...
Thanks for the input. Does anyone know why the drag link end is fixed? It looks like some fab work could yield a replaceable unit. I am surprised that none of our fab artists have tried this.
The problem, as I see it, with the stock set-up is the non replaceable end on the drag link that connects to the passenger side. Is this replaceable on the Currie unit? The angled joints in the Currie unit would be nice with my 6+" of lift. When you suggest the ZJ upgrade are you talking just...
1990JEEPXJ,
You are correct. I was talking about the fixed windows in the back doors. I guess it will make sense once I get things apart.
ehall,
Thanks for the link. The wipers that I purchased from the dealer appear to be the newer style one piece units. Again, I guess that I will figure...
I am upgrading so my loss can be your gain. The 8.25 carries an Auburn LS and the Dana 30 a Detroit Tru Track LS. Both are in perfect condition and ready to bolt in. The cost to have this done at a shop would be about $2,200. How about paying me $1,100 and saving yourself a like amount...
I am upgrading so my loss can be your gain. The 8.25 carries an Auburn LS and the Dana 30 a Detroit Tru Track LS. Both are in perfect condition and ready to bolt in. The cost to have this done at a shop would be about $2,200. How about paying me $1,100 and saving yourself a like amount...
XJTRAILRIDER,
When you say "unbolt the track at the bottom" are you are talking about the track for the large window that goes up and down, or is there a track/frame for the small window?
Thanks,
lawsoncl,
Thanks for the tip on Teamcherokee. Sure as hell they have the parts for less than what I paid at the dealer. Oh well. What is the deal with the skinny windows on the passenger side that don't open? How are they replaced?
Thanks,
On the side windows there is is a rubber strip on the bottom of the window frame that "wipes" the outside of the glass as it raises or lowers. It appears that the door panel will have to be removed to replace this strip. Is this true? Are there any tricks to replacing this trip? Thanks for...
Hey M1A1(nice unit by the way) Sounds like your labor charge is about like 95REDXJ 's $700-800 for both ends. This seems like an average charge based upon calls to other shops.