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I would start by lubing the motor, gears, and cable guides.

That tool still can still bend the opposite side ear!

The actual lever gates are different........ https://comancheclub.com/topic/49819-np-231-vs-np242-shifter-differences/

Shifter, shiftgate plus the bezel in different...

I should add that by "direct" I wasn't including driveshaft length!

I've done it twice, I did start 1 with a 242 gate but it didn't shift smooth and didn't obviously indicate correctly. For reference....... https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/

That's why electric systems monitor the radiator outlet temps, the t-stat controls the engine temp. They typically turn a fan on at about 160-180 and add fans if the outlet temp continues to rise.

As for the separate temp gauge, pick up a t-stat housing with the extra tapped port.

Don't mess with the factory sensors as they report directly to the PCM. Most systems of that type mount their temp sensors on the radiator itself and control the fans in stages.

Have you checked the harmonic balancer for movement?

It a alignment issue with something not square/true.

That's a pretty wide wheel for that size tire!

That pic 2 is really rough!!!

Should be direct swap other than the shift gate.

Everything has pro's and con's. 16's allow big brakes but reduce the side wall. I have a hard time finding my size(265/75/16) in c's as most are d or e. Brand is probly the most important depending on your actual tire needs.

I doubt the tubes are leaking, they have a fairly long engagement into the o-rings.

Those are tap extractors and you stated it was 10mm drill bit? For a drill bit I would weld a small nut on it to get it to spin back out. How thick is the metal?

First question would be, do you have it bump stopped correctly so you don't blow out a good set of shocks? Next is, have to measured so you can get the correct length shocks?

How much if any is sticking out? How thick is the material?

FYI, the WJ knuckles also require the use of a spacer and late model unit bearings.