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Was the motor hot or cold when the video was taken? I didnt see the temp gauge in the video. Not to be an ass but are you sure that noise is from the valve train? you didn't say anything about diagnosing the noise. Using a stethescope or a tubeof some kind to hear through. Sounds alot like...

piston slap goes away when the motor is revved up regardless of a hot or cold engine. ie if you were to hold the the throttle slightly open after start up and not hear a knocking noise, but hear that same noise at idle that would be one way to confirm piston slap.

kings of sorrow are pretty sweet. jamy jasta (from hatebreed) side project. surprised refused and dilinger escape plan havent been mentioned.

98 4.0 167xxx auto. my rear main is def in need of replacement. my oil pressure is good, nothing odd going on at all. 40 psi at speed and around 18-22 psi at idle. this was verified with a gauge with the car at operating temp. i dont have oil pressure issues, but ive read a ton of threads about...

i ran a 97 tcu in my 98 for about a year and had zero issues. i was operating under the impression that the 98+ have different sensor arrangements than a 97. i didnt feel the swap would work because of the sensor arrangement, but low and behold about a year went by with zero issues.

i have a 98 xj as well and battled these codes for some time. i had very similar problems\symptoms. it took me a few tries to get the nss adjusted for things to operate correctly. despite using a continuity tester, i still had to have another set of eyes on the reverse lights to make sure they...

search around for the zj v8 tie rod upgrade. it is rediculously simple to do and the cost is minimal as well. i recently did this upgrade and have been very satisfied so far.

x2 on the gauges according to my 98 factory service manual, if the compressor cycles 10 or more times in 1 min than the refrigerant is low for one reason or another.

the cooling system is at 15lbs of pressure and city water pressure is some where in the neighborhood of 20 to 25? not exactly sure maybe more. don't go full throttle with the garden hose when flushing the heater core as you might damage it. dont ask me how i know.:doh:

detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/1841589700.html

RE 6025 chryco 8.25 np231 shipped to 48236. thanks

URL="http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/1780489647.html"] idk:dunno: seems ok

the rr setup is garbage. i ran this setup for 3 years. could not hold an alignment, had the biggest dead spot and the tre's would constantly wear out. for 75 bucks you could do the zj steering upgrade, which is what i just did, and be way happier. no dead spot, alignment is spot on and getting...

sounds almost too good to be true http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/1599444349.html

i had a 93 and i had the exact same issue with the oil filter adapter. just shaved the hex key down a bit until it fit the oil filter adapter bolt. i don't recall what size the hex was off hand though.

is your cherokee abs equipped? i couldnt really tell from the pics. if equipped with abs maybe the abs pump has some air in it and is causing the issues you described.

cleaning the neutral safety switch and adjusting it is a good place to start, its free and takes a few minutes of your time, this may get you reverse and overdrive back, it did for me anyways. but your other two codes indicate a possible "no bus" and the tcu "trans control unit" not talking to...

try cleaning the iac first, but the tps may need to be tested to find out if its good or bad.

check the vac lines, could be a leak that appears after things warm up causing a rough idle? try cleaning the idle air controller, not really a bad thing to do anyways, it can cause idle issues if it is mucked up. maybe the ccv valves need to be changed or cleaned?

I thinik I have found the issue. I was under the hood with the engine running and suddenly the EGR valve line (at rear of the valve cover with the line going to the intake manifold) went flat (vacume). I think the EGR is going on me...