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So just did an sye, driveshaft wasn’t straight and though that’s what was causing the vibrations and noise. Just put it on and nothing changed. Jacked it up again and let it idle in gear, there’s a pulsing noise coming from the diff. This noise is literally the last thing that could be causing...
So I just installed a hack n tap sye, no problems at all, test drive and it definitely removed a lot of vibration, but there’s still a little bit. Same with the noise, the same speed matching noise is there, however I’m not sure where it’s coming from. I do have an auto locker but I don’t think...
Okay so after freaking out and doing research, it looks like my screw up isn’t that bad. According to spicer there’s 1.625 inches Between the mating surface of the hack n tap and flange, to the centre of the u joint on the flange, plus about 1/4 to 3/8 after flipping the shims, total length...
Yup that’s exactly what I need, now I’ve seen quite a few flanges like that (some for like $50 cad as it’s just the flange no centering yoke) but I don’t know if the bolts would line up. I was thinking that worst case ontario I just drill new holes in the RE flange so that the new one I buy...
So to sum it up I’m a dumbass. I ordered the RE hack n tap because the IRO is $300 to ship to Canada, basically the same as just a normal SYE kit. I ordered the RE one off 4wp not realizing that I needed the RE shaft as well as it has the flange. I was planning on just getting a front shaft from...
Well I found the problem, turns out I had to jam the clutch as hard as I could for it to start. Even if it was to the floor the safety switch wouldn’t make the connection, I had to literally stand on the clutch. Thanks for help anyways haha
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That’s weird that a CPS would have anything to do with the position of the steering wheel, I’ll check with a multimeter as well when I look into it. Thanks for the help!
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So recently bought an xj and putting quite a bit of work into it. Sometimes it just won’t start but not that often. Most of the time I just crank the wheel to the left while turning the key and then it starts, or I’ll just slowly turn it until it starts (important to note that it will cut out...
Ya I noticed that, I wasn’t the one who did the lift so I’m gonna get a 4.5 inch lift spring and get a stock or maybe an inch longer shackle. I don’t like what’s on there now.
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I’m downsizing from 33 to 31, I’d be fine with downsizing the lift as well but I think I’d need to buy more than just springs for the front right? Because this already has a big lift but I don’t know what size the lift is.
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Ya lmao I have to put the last shock in that side, whoever did this did a shitty job because the driveline angles are all messed up so I have to fix that when I get new springs. Pretty sure it’s something like a 5.5 inch lift. I wanna get rid of this long ass shackles and get some proper...
So I have some pictures here off an xj I bought about a month ago. I’m pretty sure it has horrible axle wrap, bounces like hell and jolts whenever I get on the gas. I have no way of telling for sure since I don’t have a go pro but I’ve heard that blocks will make that happen. I see it has a...
Those warn ones do look identical. I’ll give them a call to confirm but I think (hope lol) that I just pop some new bearings in. Thanks for the help.
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Okay so I watched this video, ( https://youtu.be/cs7iYFYxBuw ) looks like I have a similar ish setup. The races appear to be pre installed and don’t come out so I guess I’ll get the same bearings that came out? If someone could confirm that would be super helpful.
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Okay so I’ve done a lot of work to my xj to get it running good, went to get an alignment and shops said my wheel bearings are too lose they can’t do it. Alright no problems, ordered 2 hubs thinking that would work while not being familiar with locking hubs. Start tearing apart the hubs and find...