Recent content by Dustys

You used the WJ rotors. I used Ford Explorer Sport Trac rotors that is where the difference is. I liked the idea of spacing the rotor better than redrilling rotors. I am also using the Teves brakes. The Akebono would have been nice, but there isn't a noticeable difference in performance...

My diff cover is stock. It has one of those aftermarket bolt on cage thingys that add .5" or so. I had no clearance without the offset tierod. Full lock now i have about .75-1"

Listen here Troy...... I never said I did this all by myself without the help and work of my awesome friends and awesome skillz. Do I need to put credits after every post if someone else helped me ? Aahem, Ladies and Gentlemen, I'd like to give a shout out to Troy, Polly, and Clint for all...

Thanks! I found the lack of photos a little frustrating too. There is a lot of good information out there but it is spread around a bit. I wish I had time to be a little more thorough with part numbers and step by step assembly.

Take it out for a flex. Gained a lot of drop on the passenger side now that my stock draglink isn't hanging the axle up. Now its just the brake lines... tight as banjo strings. Looks like its time for longer ones again. Sorry, it was a little dark out.

There are some clearance issues to be aware of.... Better make sure your wheels are large enough, stock wheels you can forget about.. I have 15" Mickey Thompson's with a good bit of offset, and they don't taper on the inside but it was close. This picture is misleading. Its not touching...

Old and new brake and rotor comparison. Along with a shop tool for size comparison.:guitar: This is the incorrect rotor, same size but out of an 01' instead of an 02' sportrac. The hub isn't deep enough. Install Axle Trackbar mount. Its clocked forward about 10* to clear the upper...

Paint em' up! I like this stuff, time will tell how trail proof it is. But it goes on well with a brush and thats always a plus.

Weld on one side of the inserts to the DOM the others after the knuckles are installed and measurements are taken. Ream the knuckles Everything is working fine, the taper went smooth the TRE fits snugly Right? WRONG. This is supposed to be an OVER the knuckle steering so tapering the holes...

DOM and TRE from Rough Stuff I beginning to doubt that I need this ridiculous size. This is what happens when friends send you emails of stuff you ought to buy... Untitled by Agustus McCrae, on Flickr Weld on JKS flange spacer to the passenger side knuckle Sandblasted the knuckle clean...

I benefited over the past several months by gathering information from different post to do my WJ knuckle swap and 1-ton steering upgrade. Thought I'd post up pictures and parts I used this weekend to finally get it all installed. Pieces and parts: U-pick it: 01' WJ knuckles, and Calipers, PS...

That's a good point. Thats on my list next. Harmonic vibrations are the sum of all vibrations. Pistons, crank, transmission all have slight imbalances and when all those sync up they can really shake. So yes I will do the mounts.

Going to get a new driveshaft from Tom woods this week, even tho mine has been rebuilt and balanced. Ive heard they only balance to 1500 rpm and if mine is spinning closer to 4500 the. That may be the problem. In addition I'm going to raise the jeep up and running up to speed without the tires...

yea tried that and had them dynamically balanced. Even switched tires with a friend

I know right! I have been going crazy a bit, its really killed my joy for this machine. I have a hundred other "fun" projects for it I've put on hold to fix this dumbass problem. Got parts laying all over the garage to be installed. Like everything for a WJ knuckle swap, and winch, exo cage...