Recent content by Anak

What do you mean by "350 swap"? It is one thing if you are pulling a 350 out of an old worn out pickup in the junkyard and just dropping it in. It is another matter entirely if you are buying a 400hp crate 350.

Just one more way the signal to noise ratio gets worse. We are going to need more moderators around here.

Without going back throught the thread, have you played around with the shifter while trying to start the Jeep? Sometimes you can get it to work just by moving the shifter forward or backward (but still in "Park"). Or it may work if you shift to neutral. Those two methods worked for Varmint...

I think you are building your shop nicer than my house. Nice work.

Post pics of your fitment problem. We are on a new system now. Should not be nearly so difficult to post pics anymore.

The Varmints would certainly understand.

I think the cable went out with Renix and the sensor came in with the H.O. system.

Going back to '86 is it going to still be carbureted? I knew a guy who had one and it was a constant struggle to get it past smog. He loved the thing, and had done a bunch of stuff to it (gadgets and gizmos, no lift or bigger tires), but finally gave up and bought a TJ. I think rust was also...

Oh, it was. I have since fixed that situation. I left Kali and moved to America.

I have one reason not to: Needing to pass emissions. I messed myself up one year. Disconnected the battery for welding and then a few days later tried to pass emissions. Failed because there were not enough monitors set (This is OBDII, may not be an issue for OBDI). It took several weeks...

You could start an internet flame war with that question. I prefer to disconnect my battery. I have never seen an exhaust shop disconnect a battery. You are free to pick the path that works best for you.

Without seeing your metallic particles it is hard to say anything, but I can say that from my own experience with Cold Case radiators they leave a lot of aluminum chips in the radiators. Whatever cutting they are doing in the process of manufacturing seems to leave chips behind. I would hope...

PM sent. Will take it if I can avoid Paypal.

Not aluminum--that would be begging for electrolysis problems. Use stainless. Stainless will not react. The risk with stainless is galling of the threads. You can minimize that risk with anti-sieze.

Stainless with anti-seize? The bolts I am running are stainless. As long as you use a good anti-seize you should not have problems with galling. Dealing with road salt is an issue I have yet to really have to cope with. Other car folks in the salt belt may have better advice.