Brake Hard lines/Double Flare tool

[cherokee89]

All,
I would like to get educated and accurate input on what the minimum tool and what brand/type of hard lines to buy. I have been out in my garage cussing up a storm and banging my head against the wall. I am sticking this in Non-Tech/Off-Topic because it doesn't necessarily belong in just OEM Tech. Here is the scenario:

I need to replace my rear brake hard lines on an 89 Ltd 4x4. I went to Napa and bought two sections of 60 inch lines, an Evercraft double-flare tool and an Evercraft bender. Evercraft is Napa's in-house brand which is made in China. The flaring tool was about $25. I could not find this on Napa's website, but they had half an aisle of Evercraft tools. It is nothing fancy, just the side by side holders and the plunger-jaw that goes over it. The lines are made for Balkamp in the USA.

I am new to making these lines, but I cannot get the flares to be anything like what they should be. I have watched numerous instructional videos and I am mechanically inclined, but something is wrong here. I know there are many people in my shoes as far as experience and I would like to put an end to this on this site. I have searched and people tell you to get a tool from Amazon for $18, blah, blah. I would like accurate answers, please. If you guys say to go buy a $100 tool, that is fine. I cannot tell you how frustrating this has been. Yes, I used the right size hole and adapter, had the clamp tight, and I did lubricate(brake fluid) the tool and line. I don't know if the problem is me, the line, or the tool. Any input is much appreciated. Please help and clear up what should be a simple process. Oh, and never buy shit from China.

:smoker:

 

[AIbandit]

I'm new to flaring too but I just finished my renix abs to 96 conversion.
I also got mine off of amazon and it worked well. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SGG8/ref=oss_product)
2 main points that will make or break your flare.

1. Tighten the crap out of the clamp thing!
2. Make the distance of line protruding from the clamp the height of the base of the thing you put inside the line.

As far as tubing goes I couldn't tell you I reused my stock line. Napa crap should work fine.



http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-32975-8-Inch-Quarters-Tubing/dp/B000LDGNCU/ref=pd_sim_hi_3
This little cutter was very handy for tight spots.

I used this bender it works. Feels like it should cost 2$ though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMFJYI/ref=oss_product

 

[cherokee89]

Thanks, but I did that too. I tightened the hell out of it. I have a POS cutter which seems to work adequately and the bender seems OK too. From what I have seen on the instructional videos, you shouldn't have to tighten the clamp with anything other than your hand if it is worth having. Just trying to figure this out. Thanks again. :cheers:

 

[GrimmJeeper]

FYI Evercrap is our (I manage a NAPA store) Cheapo line of tools to keep up with the tools that a-zone and kragen sell. The good one is made by KD Tools in the USA and costs about 60$ (last time I looked anyway, its been a couple of years since I bought mine).

AIBandit is right, you want about the height of the die to be protruding from the clamp, and it needs to be as tight as you can get it. Any more than that and it will bend in the wrong place or not stay centered.

making brake lines takes practice... and patience.

Good luck.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

From what I have seen on the instructional videos, you shouldn't have to tighten the clamp with anything other than your hand if it is worth having. Just trying to figure this out. Thanks again. :cheers:

it needs to be tight enough that the line can not move at all while you are pressing the flare into the end of the line. usually the cheaper the tool the more you have to clamp it down.

 

[AIbandit]

usually the cheaper the tool the more you have to clamp it down.

I have no doubt that this is true. I used the 4inch bar on the flaring tool to tighten the wing nuts as much as I could.

Also when tightening the flaring tool onto the line, after it started slightly pressing on the line I wiggled the tip and it would be looser I think it kinda got it more center.


Good luck.

 

[AIbandit]

I have a POS cutter

This could be part of it too I was getting bad flares when I used a harbor freight cutter. once I went to that little one and cut slower I had better luck.

Make sure you clean out the burrs. If the tube looks small after you cut it de-burr it.

 

[cherokee89]

Thanks guys. I will try another cutter and use another method to tighten the wing nuts. I did de-burr the line. I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Begster]

I got a Craftsman double flare tool kit from Sears. The instructions tell you to use the bar of the die to tighten the wing nuts, never had the lines come loose this way. I've replaced every hardline on three cherokees and a TJ using that tool, not one problem with any of the double flares.

 

[beakie]

I helped a buddy do brakes lines using a tool like this one;

tighten it too much and it seemed to loosen at the center, don't tighten enough and it just slips anyway... so we tightened it enough to hold it, then put it in the corner of a vice and snugged up the vice to keep things properly tight.

you don't have to really torque the vice, just tighten it 1/4 turn past snug (you'll know when it's good) and then goto town on the flaring.

good luck

 

[ChiXJeff]

I've never been able to make one of those bar & yoke style flare tools work, the line always pushed through the bar.

I picked up a pliers style flare tool several years ago from JCWhitney of all places. Since then, I've found it in a few other places, even the local Ace hardware and Menard's (without the double flare buttons, unfortunately.) I've even made a good double flare on a line that had brake fluid dribbling out of it.