dellstopjeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- KUNA, ID
I need to find diagrams for removal of the heads for a couple engines, where can i find them online, i have two cars that are broken down and none that work I need help!!!!!
where can i find engine diagrams
- Thread starter dellstopjeep
- Start date
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Are you pulling 242 heads (I'm guessing you are, since this is in OEM tech...)
More specifically, what are you looking for - bolt removal, or accessory removal?
The bolts remove in an anticlockwise spiral starting with the bolt at the driver's side rear of the engine. If you follow the spiral correctly, you will end with the middle bolt on the passenger's side.
For accessory removal, you will need to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the downpipe, remove the accessory bracket from the inlet manifold (on RENIX, that's for the PS pump - I don't have an HO to look at and see what may be there for you) and the accessory bracket from the passenger front of the engine (again, that's for the AC Compressor on RENIX.) It is easiest to remove the cylinder head and manifolds as a unit and service the manifold gasket on the workbench, rather than trying to remove and install the manifolds with the head in place. You may want to get a helper to lift the head out, and to set it in place.
Before you unbolt the head, find some way of keeping the rocker arms and pushrods sorted once they are out - they need to go into the exact locations from which they were removed (unless you are replacing them.) Remove and sort these before you unbolt and lift the cylinder head.
Installation is the reverse of removal - with a few important points...
Reverse the spiral you followed to remove the bolts - start with PS Center, and work clockwise to DS rear.
The #11 bolt on the spiral (driver's side front) enters the cooling jacket. Apply LocTite PST or similar (plumber's Teflon pipe dope works very well here) to prevent leaks.
If there are paint marks on ANY of the head bolts, buy new ones and discard the old ones. They are a sort of "torque to yield" bolt, and can only be used twice reliably. If there are no marks, apply marks to the head of the bolt for future reference. Also, inspect the threads carefully on removal - even if the bolts were not painted, discard the set and replace if there is any evidence of deformity in the threads of the bolts.
Torque:
Step 1 - Go through the pattern, tightening to 22 foot-pounds.
Step 2 - Go through the pattern, tightening to 45 foot-pounds.
Step 3 - Go through the pattern, checking for 45 foot-pounds torque.
Step 4 - Go through the pattern, tightening all bolts to 110 foot-pounds EXCEPT #11 - this bolt tightens to 100 foot-pounds.
I have found it much easier to remove the entire cylinder head as an assembly, and service all the parts that bolt on to it while on the workbench, rather than trying to tear it all down and install everything in place.
Feel free to ask/email/PM if you have any questions about all of this.
5-90
More specifically, what are you looking for - bolt removal, or accessory removal?
The bolts remove in an anticlockwise spiral starting with the bolt at the driver's side rear of the engine. If you follow the spiral correctly, you will end with the middle bolt on the passenger's side.
For accessory removal, you will need to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the downpipe, remove the accessory bracket from the inlet manifold (on RENIX, that's for the PS pump - I don't have an HO to look at and see what may be there for you) and the accessory bracket from the passenger front of the engine (again, that's for the AC Compressor on RENIX.) It is easiest to remove the cylinder head and manifolds as a unit and service the manifold gasket on the workbench, rather than trying to remove and install the manifolds with the head in place. You may want to get a helper to lift the head out, and to set it in place.
Before you unbolt the head, find some way of keeping the rocker arms and pushrods sorted once they are out - they need to go into the exact locations from which they were removed (unless you are replacing them.) Remove and sort these before you unbolt and lift the cylinder head.
Installation is the reverse of removal - with a few important points...
Reverse the spiral you followed to remove the bolts - start with PS Center, and work clockwise to DS rear.
The #11 bolt on the spiral (driver's side front) enters the cooling jacket. Apply LocTite PST or similar (plumber's Teflon pipe dope works very well here) to prevent leaks.
If there are paint marks on ANY of the head bolts, buy new ones and discard the old ones. They are a sort of "torque to yield" bolt, and can only be used twice reliably. If there are no marks, apply marks to the head of the bolt for future reference. Also, inspect the threads carefully on removal - even if the bolts were not painted, discard the set and replace if there is any evidence of deformity in the threads of the bolts.
Torque:
Step 1 - Go through the pattern, tightening to 22 foot-pounds.
Step 2 - Go through the pattern, tightening to 45 foot-pounds.
Step 3 - Go through the pattern, checking for 45 foot-pounds torque.
Step 4 - Go through the pattern, tightening all bolts to 110 foot-pounds EXCEPT #11 - this bolt tightens to 100 foot-pounds.
I have found it much easier to remove the entire cylinder head as an assembly, and service all the parts that bolt on to it while on the workbench, rather than trying to tear it all down and install everything in place.
Feel free to ask/email/PM if you have any questions about all of this.
5-90
