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What frame stiffeners
- Thread starter 89waggyxj
- Start date
- Location
- San Diego
They are relatively the same. I'm partial to the IRO's, but Ruff Stuff has good products, too. I've put a full set of IRO, front to rear, on my 99. IRO has good products, I've used a number of their items, lift kits, track bar, trusses, etc.
I did TNT mid stiffeners on my 95, and RuffStuff mids on my 97.
Whatever you can get a good price on will work fine.
I did TNT mid stiffeners on my 95, and RuffStuff mids on my 97.
Whatever you can get a good price on will work fine.
I have IRO 8.8 swap kit and was pleased with the quality. Thanks for the reply. I would normally just go with IRO but Ruff Stuff is on sale with free shipping and is less than IRI at the moment.
I have used Ruff Stuff fronts, IRO Mid, Hooligan Front, Mid and Rear. Also, ARES rear. And I have a set of IRO rear. The Ruff Stuff front was the low budget plate. Some holes were not there. I would spend the extra $$$ for the holes. Hooligan vs IRO mid. Both are good. The IRO has a flange to the floor panel. Hooligan has metal going to the inner bend. I like Hooligan front, rear and mid. The IRO rear is 10 ga. I think they use to make 3/16th. The ARES looks good.
- Location
- Andover, VT
I used Ruffstuff mids and I think Dirtbound fronts and rears when I did mine. I like having the 3/16" in the middle because I can drop my unibody rails on rocks and not worry about them. 10 gauge is appropriate for the front and rear section.
If I were to do it again, I'd get a version that wraps the unibody rail completely rather than just 2 sides.
If I were to do it again, I'd get a version that wraps the unibody rail completely rather than just 2 sides.
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
The one that Ive heard is the best is the King Offroad Parts kit. No experience as I only have the old HD offroad mids installed on mine.
Something else to consider is the King Offroad and the Ruffstuff are 3/16" and the IRO is 3/16" middle but only 10GA for the front/rear. .1875 vs .128
At the time of this post, Ruffstuff is the cheapest shipped price. Free shipping $685 to my door
IRO added $83 for shipping ___________________________________________ __________ $745 to my door
King offroad added $130 for shipping ___________________________________________ $1,019 to my door
Im thinking that I may snag the frame stiffeners from Ruffstuff for my next build since Im local to them.
Something else to consider is the King Offroad and the Ruffstuff are 3/16" and the IRO is 3/16" middle but only 10GA for the front/rear. .1875 vs .128
At the time of this post, Ruffstuff is the cheapest shipped price. Free shipping $685 to my door
IRO added $83 for shipping ___________________________________________ __________ $745 to my door
King offroad added $130 for shipping ___________________________________________ $1,019 to my door
Im thinking that I may snag the frame stiffeners from Ruffstuff for my next build since Im local to them.
Last edited:
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Not much help here. Made my own 3 sided. 3/16" with a little bit of 1/4".
The King seems to have a few more parts. The front plate is also offered by Hooligan and M&T. I do have the front and rear inner brackets from M&T. Stinky Fab offers the front inner steering box bracket for the Driver's side. I do see some offer a 1/4 plate stiffeners. Also, Dirt Bound would be worth a look. Affordable Offroads are 1/8 plate I think. I have some other stuff from them. I did get a rear plate from M&T. I did not get a front plate, as I have a Hidden Bumper setup from Bad Dad Fab, and Boostwerks going into my 01 XJ.
I always liked the hidden winch bumper set up. I assume that's the boostwerks one you speak of.
Well thanks everyone I think I have decided on trying out IROs set along with their 3 link kit. I have their 8.8 swap kit and was happy with that product and I also have their steering brace and spacer.
- Location
- San Diego
I did that exact setup on my 99 and love it. I also used their D30 truss and added the WJ knuckle swap. I had to make my own track bar set up, but it was all worth it. Great ride and flex.
What was the reason to make your own track bar, clearance issue?
- Location
- San Diego
With the WJ knuckle swap, I used OTK steering. The axle track bar mount is too low and not close to being parallel with the drag link.
I ended up welding on a new axle bracket from Stinky Fab and then had Parts Mike thread track bar with Johnny Joints to my specs. More work than I had hoped, but it worked great.
Attachments
Black1990jeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- california
See this post, summery of the brands is down a ways...
This here is what I done...
I prefer the stiffeners that are thickest and have a wrap around "U" shaped design verses the "L" shaped design.
This here is what I done...
Rockrail and stiffener - Jeep Cherokee Forum
Modified XJ Cherokee Tech - Rockrail and stiffener - https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cherokeeforum.com-vbulletin/320x240/1f954b43_a2ad_48c1_9200_1c3c489bb407_6091f9d867de508606966cc929b9ee9c20b0d700.jpeg Rockrail...
www.cherokeeforum.com
I prefer the stiffeners that are thickest and have a wrap around "U" shaped design verses the "L" shaped design.
- Location
- Aurora, Colorado
I had the hardest time deciding which stiffeners to buy for my 97 and honestly spent an unhealthy amount of time and effort researching through all the different options available.
In the end I settled on the full kit from King Offroad Parts. I do not have personal experience with any others, but IMO the fit up of the king set has been pretty amazing (so far I have completed the front section only) - so my vote goes to them.
I also coated the bare metal frame and backside of the stiffener with U-Pol Products 0768 Zinc/Copper WELD#2 Weld Through Primer off Amazon. Some may say it’s expensive, but I found it to be easily weldable and well worth it for the peace of mind.
FWIW, CavFab just came out with a nice full kit that would be my #2 option.
In the end I settled on the full kit from King Offroad Parts. I do not have personal experience with any others, but IMO the fit up of the king set has been pretty amazing (so far I have completed the front section only) - so my vote goes to them.
I also coated the bare metal frame and backside of the stiffener with U-Pol Products 0768 Zinc/Copper WELD#2 Weld Through Primer off Amazon. Some may say it’s expensive, but I found it to be easily weldable and well worth it for the peace of mind.
FWIW, CavFab just came out with a nice full kit that would be my #2 option.
Attachments
DirtySouthXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Florida
Weld through primer is a must imo. Whether welding stiffeners or anything else that overlaps bare metal.
As far as what stiffeners? Can't help too much there other than, I would be looking for ones that had maximum surface contact area for plug welds; and no extra cut outs or designs that don't get welded and will be likely to hold water (aka rot your frame from the inside out).
Black1990jeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- california
I drilled lots of extra drain holes in the stiffeners prior to install. I figured it was useless to try to seal them as the stock frame has drain holes in it that would fill the space between with water anyway. I drilled large holes to match the factory frame drain holes, plus a few more. I also used weld thru primer in areas to be welded, and epoxy two part brush on paint in areas away from weld on both the frame and inside of stiffener. after welding I used lots of Rustoleum aerosol paint, using a straw (like a WD40 can straw and nozzle) and sprayed paint thru every drain hole to get in between the frame and stiffener, sprayed along the seams, squirted paint in between in every direction possible, and painted with the straw inside the factory frame too (via the drain holes) to cover any factory paint areas that got burned by the welding on the outer surface. so far, a few years later no signs or rust. after wheeling I flush the frame inside with water to remove any mud or salt, and I can peer inside much of it and see no rust.
So gice up on sealing it, instead make drain holes, and allow the upper seams between the stich welds to be open to allow water tio be rinsed through to remove any traces of mud or salt. Coat it all with paint using spray cans with straws.
Good Luck
So gice up on sealing it, instead make drain holes, and allow the upper seams between the stich welds to be open to allow water tio be rinsed through to remove any traces of mud or salt. Coat it all with paint using spray cans with straws.
Good Luck
