Weld-On Spring Perch, LCA, UCA Mounts (HOW?)

[XJoshua]

Well I got me a Dana44 for the front, and am about to start grinding off the mounts so the new TJ Weld On kit can be placed.

My question is, what kind of welding type should I use. I was thinking Arc since I can get my grandpa to do it for me and give me some lessons. Also Arc being strong, it should handle the wieght and torque.

Thanks Much,
Joshua

 

[Mr.OverKill]

stick, tig or mig will do if its done properly, if your geand father has the skill and the equipment then stick (7018 M ) it is.

 

[XJoshua]

Thanks, yea Im sure he can pull it off, other wise alot of his farm equiptment would have broken down 20 years ago.

 

[vetteboy]

I just did all the brackets on my front 60 with an arc. I think you'll have a hard time getting good penetration on the axle tube with anything less than an arc or a 220V MIG.

 

[XJoshua]

Here's another one for you. When a buddy of mine helped me weld my exhaust we did MIG and I got a brieft description of all types. But when you weld, you should see it on the other side of the metal that your welding together. So will it penetrate all the way into the inside of the axle tube? If it does will the shafts rub against the weld sem, or not reach that far?

 

[Mr.OverKill]

no, what you should see is called the heat trail, a discoloration or minor flakeing of the surface of the opposite side of the weld and the axle tubes you are welding are at least 1/4" thick so a burn through is highly un likely

 

[ChicksDigWagons]

Plus, if you're welding thinner metal to thicker metal which is often the case with welding axle mounts, you only need enough juice to penetrate the smaller of the two. I've done most of my axle welding with a Lincoln SP-175+ with excellent results.

 

[53guy]

Plus, if you're welding thinner metal to thicker metal which is often the case with welding axle mounts, you only need enough juice to penetrate the smaller of the two. I've done most of my axle welding with a Lincoln SP-175+ with excellent results.

I am not so sure about that.....sounds kinda iffy. every time I've welded, the goal was to penetrate the thicker of the two, not the thinner. So you've got stupid penetration on the thinner metal but none on the thicker. Basically its just tacked on now. I'm not saying your welds suck, but just that I think penetration on the thicker of the two metals is more important.

 

[53guy]

Here's another one for you. When a buddy of mine helped me weld my exhaust we did MIG and I got a brieft description of all types. But when you weld, you should see it on the other side of the metal that your welding together. So will it penetrate all the way into the inside of the axle tube? If it does will the shafts rub against the weld sem, or not reach that far?

Like stated before, you're highly unlikely to burn through the tube welding on brackets. If you do, you're definately welding too hot and have probably melted the bracked a whole hell of a lot as it is the thinner of the two. What you're most likely to see is (like steagall9301 said) is a discoloration on the other side of the tube (the inside, which you're probably not going to be able to see without a stupid mirror and flashlight set up). If you ever get a chance, get some 1/4 inch steel plate and just have a buddy run a bead on the other side with a 110 mig, a 220 mig, and an arc and you'll be able to see the difference. With the 110 mig, you wont see crap. With the 220, you're likely to see (if you're doing it correctly) a slight glow in the metal where you're buddy is welding on the other side. An arc is veriable in heats and in my opinion is superior to a 220 mig as far as penetration goes....you can see anything from a small glow to a 1/2" wide red hot patch where he's welding on. The red means you've got penetration, but not neccessairly burn through. Burn through is similar to what a cutting torch will do, but in no way will you get a "bead" on the other side. I hope this helps a bit.

 

[vetteboy]

Plus, if you're welding thinner metal to thicker metal which is often the case with welding axle mounts, you only need enough juice to penetrate the smaller of the two. I've done most of my axle welding with a Lincoln SP-175+ with excellent results.

Uh...no?

In any kind of T-joint like that, the base (in this case the axle tube) takes more heat even if it's the same thickness. This is because you're starting at the edge on the vertical piece but in the middle of the base, so there's more heat dissipation in the base. Adding to the fact that your base is most likely thicker you're definitely going to need more heat than what you'd set for just the thinner stuff.

By your logic, when welding my 1/4"-thick angle iron reinforcements onto the unibody rails, I only have to set the welder for 14-gauge sheet?