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two lower longarms and torque arm...

B

BUCKYXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tulsa, OK
Ok i am doing my longarms instead of buying them. I am thinking either running two long lowers with large RE joints at the frame end and poly bushings on the axle end not gonna be adjustable, run single upper torque arm with RE joint on frame end and stock style bushing on the axle end. question one is should I run it to the mount above the diff or above the track bar mount on the axle? Next is what would you do differently than I am? I am also going to run 3/4" heims for my steering.
 
If you doing a radius arm design i would attach the upper link to the drivers side above the diff. Reason, this keeps the driveline pointing at the TC better than the passenger side.

Now if you're doing a 3-link, The URF style is the best i've seen so far. If you're not into the center link, do a search, there is lots of opinions on what side works better, driver's side has issues with the exhaust, passenger side has issues with the starter.

My self i did a 4-link like FT but i wanted the extra arm for high speed stability as i drive mine on the road alot.

Good luck and report back with whatever you decide on.

Dingo
 
The Rock Krawler kit has 2 lowers and the single upper that mounts to the drivers side stock location. I mounted my upper on the passanger side stock location and I haven't had any issues! It rides great on the road, and flexs VERY well offroad!! I didn't have any issues with clearance, it comes very close to the bent in the exaust, but doesn't touch it!
 
doing three mounting points at the frame end and three mounting points at the axle end.
 
thanks billy I didnt know what to search for since its really a four link but most people dont call it a four link.
 
BUCKYXJ said:
thanks billy I didnt know what to search for since its really a four link but most people dont call it a four link.
Click to expand...

No, it's really a 3 link, you only count the links that are trailing arms or leading arms (not the track bar).

BUCKYXJ said:
Ok i am doing my longarms instead of buying them. I am thinking either running two long lowers with large RE joints at the frame end and poly bushings on the axle end not gonna be adjustable, run single upper torque arm with RE joint on frame end and stock style bushing on the axle end. question one is should I run it to the mount above the diff or above the track bar mount on the axle? Next is what would you do differently than I am? I am also going to run 3/4" heims for my steering.
Click to expand...

The upper arm will work going to either side, but if you run it to the passenger side the upper arm should be closer to level. Mine is to the passenger side, mounted to a bracket that is both the UCA mount and the track bar mount. It works pretty good, and the upper arm and the track bar make a sort of A arm.....don't know for sure what advantage there is to this, but it's strong and it works. The URF 3 link has the upper arm going to the drivers side......they both work fine. Both of our reasons for doing it the way we did is because that's the side that had the most room for the upper arm and frame side mount.

As far as the mounting joints you're going to use, I'd recommend using the more flexible joint on the axle side, rather than the frame side, since the axle end takes the most amount of deflection. So, I'd put the JJ's on the axle end and the bushings on the frame end.

3 links rock....just be sure to make the upper mounts really stout.
 
posted by brettm on one of my other post

"with longarms you NEED soft bushings (rubber or poly) at the axle end or the arms will act as a giant sway bar.

use a joint (large heim, flexjoint, etc) at the 2 frame attachments and bushings at all the axle attachments and the attachments between the 2 arms."

why would this be different than with a longarm setup?
 
BUCKYXJ said:
Ok i am doing my longarms instead of buying them. I am thinking either running two long lowers with large RE joints at the frame end and poly bushings on the axle end not gonna be adjustable, run single upper torque arm with RE joint on frame end and stock style bushing on the axle end. question one is should I run it to the mount above the diff or above the track bar mount on the axle? Next is what would you do differently than I am? I am also going to run 3/4" heims for my steering.
Click to expand...
I'm running a mid-arm 3 link on a D30, I pretty much copied the design from pics on XJDB.com and modified it to work on my D30 and for how I was going to be using it. For the lower arms I used rock logic rings and stock bushings at axle end and RE joints at frame. The top arm is on the drivers side to make use of the stronger axle mount. I dropped the frame mount down and back and plated a portion of the frame for strength. Other than the greatly improved ride, I can't tell a difference on the street. Offroad is a world of difference.I really haven't noticed any bad characteristics. I say go for it, you'll definately like it.
 
BUCKYXJ said:
posted by brettm on one of my other post

"with longarms you NEED soft bushings (rubber or poly) at the axle end or the arms will act as a giant sway bar.

use a joint (large heim, flexjoint, etc) at the 2 frame attachments and bushings at all the axle attachments and the attachments between the 2 arms."

why would this be different than with a longarm setup?
Click to expand...

Radius arms tend to bind, so you need to have a bushing that can allow a little "give" or deflection to compensate for the binding. A 3 link is not prone to such binding, and since there are less points of attachment at the axle end (only 1 arm to control axle wrap) it would be ideal to not have any deflection at all.
Billy
 
so I am safe running all RE joints at all 6 ends.
 
BUCKYXJ said:
so I am safe running all RE joints at all 6 ends.
Click to expand...

Sure you are. I run JJ's on both ends of my lowers, and a JJ on the axle end and heim joint on the frame end of my upper. Really, it doesn't matter what you run, it's just my experience that the axle end joints deflect a little more than the frame side joints.

Brett must have been talking about radius style long arms.........otherwise he's talking out his ass. :D
 
yes, i was speaking in that post of radius arms, because that's what you were discussing then. radius arms BIND with any sort of articulation, so you need bushings to relieve bind. with a 3 link w/ panhard (URF style), there is NO bind in the useable range of motion, so you should use joints to allow for articulation and completely prevent axle wrap.
 
thanks for clearing that up guys. i will post pics. dig it
 
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