TRIED everything Doberman eats it ALL!

HoodRichXJ

NAXJA Forum User
I've got an 11 month old Doberman pup, and a 3 year old Lab. The doberman keeps eating the other ones collar, and since we live in a neighborhood we've got an electric fence to keep the dogs in our yard. so you might be able to see whys its a problem for the doberman to eat the other ones collar. i've tried the no chew spray, i've tried hot sauce she thinks its almost like a topping. i'm tired of feeding her 10 collars.... anyone been through this be4? thanks -steve
 
Grab the Dobie by the scruff and lift it off the ground, face to face with you. Once it has its fett of the ground, and is uncomfortable, it will start to see who is in charge.

All ya gotta do is show who the Alpha is.

Fergie
 
RichP said:
Collar has a zapper in it.

Wouldn't that make for better conductivity?

:D



But seriously...

Try a spike/studded thick leather collar... Might slow him down a bit
But you really got to find the root of the problem, Is he doing it out of boredom? Does he like the taste of a collar? Is it an escape attempt?

You may want to look into a remote controlled shock collar and try this:

Separate or crate them individually when alone...

When you get home, let them both out but monitor them closely, when the pup goes for the other guys collar, Zap him. He'll get the message. Repeat until necessary.

Feel free to substitute the shock collar with whatever flavor of dicipline you find acceptable. Like Fergie said, when you bust him in the act you can shock him or just walk up and scruff his lil ass and read him the rules.

Cases like these are usually the result of extended periods of "puppy boredom" where they're so amp'd they need an outlet. Try Kong toys to keep the little bugger busy. Definately try to separate them when not supervised until he grows out of it or learns not to do it.

You DO NOT want your puppy eating collars (or anything that isn't food). Doesn't take much for a foreign body to cause an obstruction, puncture or intestinal binding...

You kinda have to figure out if it's a behavioral problem and if so, what's causing it and what course to take..

Call your nearest animal shelter and ask if they have an animal behaviorist on staff. Most bigger places do, and they'd much rather try to help you solve your problem than have to find a home for a destructive puppy/dog down the road... and I'm sure you'd be happier too
 
Something that has worked for me, is to tie whatever it is they are chewing on, in there mouth. Don´t tie it in so tight, it cuts off the circulation, but tight enough they can´t spit it out. Grab the collar and shake it every so often, look him right in the eye, so the dog doesn´t forget whats going on. Leave it in there for a couple-few hours.
Bad idea to swat them with your hand, a newspaper works well, but usually the dog ends up being affraid of newspapers. After you guys get sorted out, don´t foeget to forgive the dog and do some play time.
Might have to repeat a few times, depending on how sensitive and/or bone headed the dog wants to be. I usually use, stepped responce, start out small and get progressively serious, try not to loose patience. Dogs have little sense of time, but you want to leave it in there long enough, for it to be seriously uncomfortable, with like 5-10 minute reminders, why this bad stuff is happening. Get them while they are young. Once they are ruined, it really gets frustrating.
Another thought, I raise mostly hunting dogs. But the techniques work for most dogs. I figure they are gonna chew on something. So I give mine old used Teddy Bears (preferably without a synthetic filling), could probably also use, retrieval training bags (old Levi pants legs, a piece of rope, filled with wood chips). When they chew on something, they aren´t supposed to, I swat them with whatever they are chewing on, then give them the Bear and play for awhile. I also use foot long pieces of tree branch, usually Apple or Beech, something without a lot of tannine (lite wood). Makes a mess, but relatively harmless and good training for retrievers.
I´ve used shoes to train attack dogs, train them to attack the shoes and not the person, works well. But can really backfire, when they get into the wifes shoes closet.
 
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8Mud said:
Dogs have little sense of time

and that's the reason why discipline works best if you catch them in the act...
if you punish them for something that happened hours before, it's pretty hard for them to make the connection, even if you rub their face in it, put it in their mouth, tie it around their neck, etc.

this also works on your behalf because when training, it makes it possible to praise and make corrections at the same time.

and a reminder that some dog breeds require very different types of training...

excessive positive reinforcement and long training periods don't seem to work on my dogs...
 
Electric fences, dog zappers, hot sauce, choke collars, pincher collars, corporal punishment....

Jeesum guys.... Don't you guys have a Humane Society or S.P.C.A.?

I work for the local Humane Society, all of those things classify as cruelty to animals.

Hurting animals is no substitue for proper training.
 
Beached Bones said:
Electric fences, dog zappers, hot sauce, choke collars, pincher collars, corporal punishment....

Jeesum guys.... Don't you guys have a Humane Society or S.P.C.A.?

I work for the local Humane Society, all of those things classify as cruelty to animals.

Hurting animals is no substitue for proper training.


Have you ever seen a mother dog scold her puppies? All of this other stuff is tame compared to that.

By the way I have a 5 year old fawn Dobie. Obediance classes work wonders.
 
Beached Bones said:
Electric fences, dog zappers, hot sauce, choke collars, pincher collars, corporal punishment....

Jeesum guys.... Don't you guys have a Humane Society or S.P.C.A.?

I work for the local Humane Society, all of those things classify as cruelty to animals.

Hurting animals is no substitue for proper training.


That's odd...

I worked for 6 years at the biggest animal shelter in the entire midwest...
I'am also a level 3 NACA certified Animal Control Officer (ACO) and Illinois approved Humane Investigator
I'am also a licensed surgical Veterinary technician..

There is a BIG difference between training and "hurting" animals...
I've personally, by my own hand, euthanized over 5,000 animals...
some because they were ill, some were because of temperament, some due to owner request and MANY because they were UNTRAINED...

I would rather see someone try to train an animal within acceptable limits than to own an untrained, anti social, uncontrollable risk to the public. I am not encouraging hurting any animal...
but hurt is a subjective term...
Have you ever tried to discipline a Cane Corso or a Fila Brasileiro?
You can obviously not train an Italian Greyhound and a Doberman the same way...

How long and what kind of work do you do for your humane society?

I can post pics, horror stories, newpaper articles and awards involving my 15+ years of dealing with companion animals...

Did you overlook the suggestion I made regarding consulting a behaviorist or the local humane society...

Many of the suggestions made here are aproved by the HSUS btw...

Do not pretend to be holier than thou to a guy that's had to do Cruelty Investigations in a city the size of Chicago...

I can redefine true acts of cruelty if interested...
 
here's the Law in the State of Illinois:

70/3. Owner's duties
3. Each owner shall provide for each of his animals: (a) sufficient quantity of good quality, wholesome food and water; (b) adequate shelter and protection from the weather; (c) veterinary care when needed to prevent suffering; and (d) humane care and treatment.



70/3.01. Cruel treatment
3.01. No person or owner may beat, cruelly treat, torment, starve, overwork or otherwise abuse any animal. No owner may abandon any animal where it may become a public charge or may suffer injury, hunger or exposure.



70/3.02. Aggravated cruelty
3.02. Aggravated cruelty. No person may intentionally commit an act that causes a companion animal to suffer serious injury or death. Aggravated cruelty does not include euthanasia of a companion animal through recognized methods approved by the Department of Agriculture.



70/3.03. Animal torture
3.03. Animal torture.

(a) A person commits animal torture when that person without legal justification knowingly or intentionally tortures an animal. For purposes of this Section, and subject to subsection (b), "torture" means infliction of or subjection to extreme physical pain, motivated by an intent to increase or prolong the pain, suffering, or agony of the animal.
 
1 Hour Ago 14:41
Gil BullyKatz Quote:
Originally Posted by Beached Bones
Electric fences, dog zappers, hot sauce, choke collars, pincher collars, corporal punishment....

Jeesum guys.... Don't you guys have a Humane Society or S.P.C.A.?

I work for the local Humane Society, all of those things classify as cruelty to animals.

Hurting animals is no substitue for proper training.




That's odd...

I worked for 6 years at the biggest animal shelter in the entire midwest...
I'am also a level 3 NACA certified Animal Control Officer (ACO) and Illinois approved Humane Investigator
I'am also a licensed surgical Veterinary technician..

There is a BIG difference between training and "hurting" animals...
I've personally, by my own hand, euthanized over 5,000 animals...
some because they were ill, some were because of temperament, some due to owner request and MANY because they were UNTRAINED...

I would rather see someone try to train an animal within acceptable limits than to own an untrained, anti social, uncontrollable risk to the public. I am not encouraging hurting any animal...
but hurt is a subjective term...
Have you ever tried to discipline a Cane Corso or a Fila Brasileiro?
You can obviously not train an Italian Greyhound and a Doberman the same way...

How long and what kind of work do you do for your humane society?

I can post pics, horror stories, newpaper articles and awards involving my 15+ years of dealing with companion animals...

Did you overlook the suggestion I made regarding consulting a behaviorist or the local humane society...

Many of the suggestions made here are aproved by the HSUS btw...

Do not pretend to be holier than thou to a guy that's had to do Cruelty Investigations in a city the size of Chicago...

I can redefine true acts of cruelty if interested...


Thanks for the defense of radio collars. In a perfect world, with lots of acreage maybe training a dog to stay on his property would be no problem. However, if you live in a subdivision, it is responsible to keep your dog on your property. It is also a way that our family pet does not get locked in a fence (out of sight, out of mind) with no attention. They are very much part of the family atmosphere. Yes, it is training, not cruelty.
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
Wouldn't that make for better conductivity?
You may want to look into a remote controlled shock collar

i had one of these for my golden retriever. never worked. it shocked but she couldnt feel it. shaved her neck and everything got it real tight but she couldnt feel it unless we pulled back on the collar so the things were touching her skin. i have a pup to who just tore up my 2 recliners
 
bocaj said:
i had one of these for my golden retriever. never worked. it shocked but she couldnt feel it. shaved her neck and everything got it real tight but she couldnt feel it unless we pulled back on the collar so the things were touching her skin. i have a pup to who just tore up my 2 recliners

Golden Retriever?

explains everything...

:D

Let's just say they pay MY bills....



p.s. Depending on brand, adjustability and voltage, some of those collars will not do a thing to some dogs...
Your golden might be pretty stoic, or have a higher pain tolerance...
or you got a crappy unit with weak batteries...

Golden puppies usually outgrow their bad behavior....

at about 7-8 years...

enjoy
 
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my golden retriever is a good dog but she runs away everychance she gets. shes about a year and ahalf. my chocolate lab doesnt even think of leavin the yard but he chews alot of my stuff. hes about 6 months. i might have to try the spray stuff i cant afford new stuff all the time. my g.r. just gets tied up all the time. is there a good way to get them to respond to there names? they dont come when called
 
bocaj said:
my golden retriever is a good dog but she runs away everychance she gets. shes about a year and ahalf. my chocolate lab doesnt even think of leavin the yard but he chews alot of my stuff. hes about 6 months. i might have to try the spray stuff i cant afford new stuff all the time. my g.r. just gets tied up all the time. is there a good way to get them to respond to there names? they dont come when called

A few basic commands any dog has to know, heal, by the left leg (hunting/working dogs), sit, lay down and stay.
I usually string them together, use old cheeze when they are young, to get them to come when they are called. When they master that, they don´t get the cheese until they, let me put on the leash, heal and sit. Etc. Heal and sit are much easier to teach, when they are on the leash. Repetition and consistancy, do it the same way, every time.
I usually whistle loud, when it´s dinner time, when calling them in the house or for a walk. They catch on fast, that the whistle means come and good things are gonna happen.
Getting a dog that wants to run, to stay home, is a hard habit to break. Right up there with, not chasing a Deer or coming to the whistle when they have a nose full of rabbit. Sometimes requires some hard love, a moderate kick to the ribs (not the hips). Not a bad thing to have a hunting dog, boot shy. A boot shy dog, makes it much easier to break up a dog fight, without getting bitten.
Dogs are much tougher than people, what looks like cruelty, is often for a dog, just rough play or a dominace confrontation (dogs beat the crap out of each other, but rarley do lasting damage). But they do have soft spots to be avoided, hips, neck and a few others.
I had a guard dog (dope dog washout) that I saved from euthanasia. Dog was really ruined, but I managed to train him not to bite children. After seriously kicking his ass a few times. Thought he was relatively safe, until a retarded woman (20 with the mind of a 5 year old) walked past the beware signs, into the back yard and was severly chewed up. Dog never did learn not to run (when I wasn´t watching). Really a shame to let a dog get that screwed up, but he was a serious bone head, probably the reason he washed out of dope school. A Czechoslovakian Bear Dog (translated), kind of a cross between a Rotweiler and a Beagle, with the worst traits of both breeds. Talked to a breeder, about my problems with the dog, his answer was good nose, stupid and aggresive, is what you need (in breeding) when sending a dog after a bear in a thicket ( a smart dog will probably only do that once). Sometimes it´s just the nature of the breed and you have to figure out a way to deal with it.
 
Giving the dog proper things to chew on, positive reinforcement, and ground black pepper mixed with Dawn dish soap coating problem areas (that he chews) have always worked for me.
 
The best way to keep puppies from chewing up your stuff when you are not around is a crate. I would never own a dog with out crate training them. It makes the dog feel more secure when you are not around and they like having thier own space to go and hide.

I got my Doberman when she was 6 months old. The people I bought her from could not house train her and she ate their furnature. They thought a crate was cruel. After I had her for 1 week she would go in it on her own to nap.
 
Its good to hear some of the advice from folks that know dogs around here. The wife and I are looking to get a dog here soon, and I havent a clue about how to train it, as our last dog was trained by Dad, 15 years ago.

Are there any decent books, or websites related to dog training and discipline?

And talking about stupidity as far as breeds go...Brittany Spaniels...a box of rocks has more brains than they do.

Fergie
 
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