Thoughts on steering setup

[rockwerks]

IM gonna build an OTK system.

My thought was to build a knuckle to knuckle tierod similar to Rusty's Thee difference being using 1 1/4" 1/4" DOM and tapping the ends for 1 ton TRE's

using GOFERIT flip inserts, a total of 3

1 for each knuckle and the 3rd to drill out the tierod and weld in the insert through the tube.

I would also place a gusset over the top side of teh tube to reinforce

thoughts?

 

[ScottRoz]

I'm pretty sure that the Goferit inserts are the same taper as stock tie rods (and some Dodge beefier ones), but are different than the Chevy ones (typically referred to as the one ton ones).
From what I've seen, there is enough material to ream from the top of the D30 knuckles for the Chevy taper. The narrow part of the taper will match what is now the wide part of the taper on the bottom of the knuckle.

 

[Blue XJ]

The goferit inserts won't work with 1 ton TRE's. Your able to ream the knuckle in the other direction. Just drill it out and then re-ream it the opposite way. I'm running the JCR 1 ton steering OTK that way.

 

[rockwerks]

My thought was more on using an insert on the tube....for the drag link more than the Knuckles......kinda got ahead of myself there.

So Id only use 1 insert on the tie rod then. Use one tons on the tierod and stock size on the drag link to keep it simple.

OH and for your info several companies sell 1 ton style TRE's (heavy thread) with stock xj size taper

 

[MrShoeBoy]

You can ream the factory Dana 30 knuckles from the top to use standard found anywhere "1 ton" TREs. They are really 1/2 or 3/4 ton TREs if you want to get specific. I would recomend using 1.25x.375 DOM instead of .25 wall for the drag link and tie rod if you plan on drilling and tapping the ends for 7/8x18 threads.

Also I just happen to have a set of Dana 30 knuckles already reamed for the bigger steering ends. PM me if anybody is interested.

AARON

 

[Goatman]

I prefer mounting the drag link on top of the tie rod with a rod end. This helps eliminate twisting the tie rod which allows a slight dead spot, and it raises the drag link a little for a better angle....which also helps limit twisting of the tie rod. It's very simple to fab, just a couple of tabs welded to the tie rod.

To make it easier, since you usually have to order the DOM anyway, I order it with the proper I.D. so no drilling is neccessary for tapping.

 

[rockwerks]

I prefer mounting the drag link on top of the tie rod with a rod end. This helps eliminate twisting the tie rod which allows a slight dead spot, and it raises the drag link a little for a better angle....which also helps limit twisting of the tie rod. It's very simple to fab, just a couple of tabs welded to the tie rod.

To make it easier, since you usually have to order the DOM anyway, I order it with the proper I.D. so no drilling is neccessary for tapping.

So what size would that be? for the 1 ton stuff and or the heims you used?

Richard are your heims greasable? zirk? and what size? the more I see yours the more I like it:greensmok

 

[Goatman]

So what size would that be? for the 1 ton stuff and or the heims you used?

Richard are your heims greasable? zirk? and what size? the more I see yours the more I like it:greensmok

I don't know for the 7/8 18 thread that the TRE's use. That's different from the 7/8 16 thread that a heim joint uses. I use 3/4" heim joints, and the I.D. is 11/16 for the 3/4 16 threads. That's an easy size to order. I use .250 wall, I have bent it, but only slightly, and the tie rod has considerable rock rash with only a slight bend.

I don't use greasable rod ends, I use teflon lined. If they are good quality, $25-$35, they hold up very well.

Do you remember how I used spacers on my D30 OTK setup? Pretty simple, decent angles, and pretty stout. I later used the nifty double adjuster from QA1 which is avaliable for the 3/4 heims, makes setting the toe easy without disconnecting the drag link.

Here's the spacers:

 

[rockwerks]

I don't know for the 7/8 18 thread that the TRE's use. That's different from the 7/8 16 thread that a heim joint uses. I use 3/4" heim joints, and the I.D. is 11/16 for the 3/4 16 threads. That's an easy size to order. I use .250 wall, I have bent it, but only slightly, and the tie rod has considerable rock rash with only a slight bend.

I don't use greasable rod ends, I use teflon lined. If they are good quality, $25-$35, they hold up very well.

Do you remember how I used spacers on my D30 OTK setup? Pretty simple, decent angles, and pretty stout. I later used the nifty double adjuster from QA1 which is avaliable for the 3/4 heims, makes setting the toe easy without disconnecting the drag link.

Here's the spacers:

Did you make the spacers or purchase. (nice setup) so you used a QA1 AS12-12? So you using 1 1/4" dom? or.....................

Thanks for the help!

Brian

 

[NOS/86]

we made mine out of 1"1/2 .250 wall dom . and used 3/4 hiems with the teflon . (way overkill) but i'm hard on parts too.

instead of 3/4 bolts we used 5/8 bolt and put a spacer inside the 3/4 works great ,

my setup looks just like the rusty's offroad .

this is the best mod i think i've ever made . i hate tre 's they suck ! i got tired of replacing them and drag links .

trail tested ......my draglink dead stopped my cherokee going about 5mph on a rock ....no damage to draglink but , i busted the crap out of the rock .

your looking into having right about $350 in parts plus the labor . but i changed the steering bar and draglink too .

 

[rockwerks]

we made mine out of 1"1/2 .250 wall dom . and used 3/4 hiems with the teflon . (way overkill) but i'm hard on parts too.

instead of 3/4 bolts we used 5/8 bolt and put a spacer inside the 3/4 works great ,

my setup looks just like the rusty's offroad .

this is the best mod i think i've ever made . i hate tre 's they suck ! i got tired of replacing them and drag links .

trail tested ......my draglink dead stopped my cherokee going about 5mph on a rock ....no damage to draglink but , i busted the crap out of the rock .

your looking into having right about $350 in parts plus the labor . but i changed the steering bar and draglink too .

So you used weld in bungs? as for heims I have enough Teflon self lubing ones to get eh job done.............3/4 16 LH and RH

Id just like to know what size of DOM for direct tap for teh 3/4 -16?

 

[NOS/86]

yes we used a bung well sort of . we use a lug nut from a tractor trailer and turn it down to fit the tube and weld the end . works great .

we use these on tube buggy's with no problems .

i think it would be 1" or 1"1/8 for tapping . a good steel store can tell you the inside diamiter of the tube .

good luck , if it wasn't dark and cold outside i'd take a couple of pictures and post them .

 

[Goatman]

So you used weld in bungs? as for heims I have enough Teflon self lubing ones to get eh job done.............3/4 16 LH and RH

Id just like to know what size of DOM for direct tap for teh 3/4 -16?

I use 3/4" heim joints, and the I.D. is 11/16 for the 3/4 16 threads.

Use 1 3/16 .250 wall DOM which will give you 11/16 ID.

I made the spacers out of .250 wall DOM 5/8 ID, and I use all 5/8 bolts. I had the spacers turned down on a lathe to be perfectly flat on the bottom and with a taper on the top. I also use 3/4x5/8 heims, 3/4 thread with 5/8 bore.

 

[rockwerks]

Use 1 3/16 .250 wall DOM which will give you 11/16 ID.

I made the spacers out of .250 wall DOM 5/8 ID, and I use all 5/8 bolts. I had the spacers turned down on a lathe to be perfectly flat on the bottom and with a taper on the top. I also use 3/4x5/8 heims, 3/4 thread with 5/8 bore.

thanks Richard, that just so happens to be what I have laying around, heim wise anyway. time to order some DOM

 

[CanMan]

Richard, how thick were those spacers you made for the rod end on the knuckle?

 

[Goatman]

Richard, how thick were those spacers you made for the rod end on the knuckle?

They were .250 wall and 1 1/16" tall. I did them so the joint just barely cleared the rim.

 

[rockwerks]

I have 4 3/4 x 3/4 heims, Ive just ordered 6 high misalignment spacers 5/8" bolt id.

and 1 3/16" .250 tubing and tap.and will make a few tabs for welding on the tie rod when i get that far LOL

 

[Goatman]

Yeah, I got both right and left hand 3/4 16 taps, they're nice to have around.

 

[Bouncy]

Anyone sell OTK parts for heim setup with drag link going to passenger wheel instead of on the tie-rod??

Might be a newbie question but I haven't seen anything like goatmans setup before.

 

[rockwerks]

TNT...............59.00 each but not as heavy duty but still 10 times better than stock, you provide them a dimension