Starter differences

*89Laredo*

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sheffield, IA
What is the difference between the Mitsubishi starters and the Chrysler starters?
Im pretty sure my renix has the Mitsubishi starter (not positive, havent looked) and it is getting slow. I have a 97 Chrysler starter from my old jeep I was going to clean up and rebuild so I could just quickly swap them and have a spare to rebuild and keep somewhere. I just want to know if there is going to be any problems (different gear teeth, etc) before I spend the money to rebuild.
 
Starters usualy work or don't (when they go bad), a slow crank is usually the battery dying, not getting charged (alternator or cables problem), bad cables-contacts, dirty posts, corrosion or a bad grounds, and not the starter going out.
 
You can use any 4.0L starter for any 4.0L XJ. The later ones have a "plug connector" All you have to do for those is splice the correct connector.
 
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AFAIK, all of the 6-242 starters were made by Mitsu, with the difference being the solenoid trigger lead (earlier ones used a 4mm stud, later ones use a 1/4" spade.)

All will swap freely - they are otherwise identical. I believe this applies 1987-2006.

Honestly, I don't think a "Chrysler" starter has been extant for years - Chrysler has gone over to Mitsubishi or ND starter motors a long time ago. And, all of their alternators have been Nippondenso or Bosch (Bosch being uncommon) since 1991 at least.
 
Umm... alternator? And it is not just the late model alternators that are externally regulated.

Yea my Bad:looser:
Im all loopy on cough syrup been sick for a week !


Funny to me though..
The Denso alternators are the external ones unless im wrong about that too , like i was about it being a late model thing. (sorry off topic)
 
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Yea my Bad:looser:
Im all loopy on cough syrup been sick for a week !


Funny to me though..
The Denso alternators are the external ones unless im wrong about that too , like i was about it being a late model thing. (sorry off topic)

You're not too loopy - it is the Nippondenso (ND, Denso) units that are externally-regulated with a PWM circuit in the PCM. They were used 1991-up.

1987-1990 got the Delco CS130, with some 4-150 units getting the CS121

1984-1986 V6-173 got the Delco 12SI (? I know it was an SI, I'm not sure which one,) and I believe the 4-150 did as well.

1985-1987 Peugeot Turbodiesel got a Paris-Rhone unit.

I'm not sure which alternator the VM 2.5LTD got - probably the Denso.
 
Re: Re: Starter differences

Starters usualy work or don't (when they go bad), a slow crank is usually the battery dying, not getting charged (alternator or cables problem), bad cables-contacts, dirty posts, corrosion or a bad grounds, and not the starter going out.

If it's not broke fix it till it is...
 
Amplifying 5-90's post above, all the 4.0 starters can interchange if you modify the leads a bit. There are some internal differences as well, so you can't interchange the parts from an older one into a newer one, but they all fit even though they vary a bit in length.

Mitsubishi external-regulator alternators also changed connectors, I think between 1996 and 97, but they also will interchange if you modify the connectors, and the part of the alternator that contains the connectors can be interchanged if you have a correct bad one and an incorrect good one. Grand Cherokees for some period used the same size alternator as the 4.0. with a slightly higher amperage output. I found a freshly rebuilt GC alternator at a yard sale that had the same connectors as the 95 type, and it fit fine. Later my 99 alternator conked out and I swapped the connectors and put it in that.
 
Amplifying 5-90's post above, all the 4.0 starters can interchange if you modify the leads a bit. There are some internal differences as well, so you can't interchange the parts from an older one into a newer one, but they all fit even though they vary a bit in length.

Mitsubishi external-regulator alternators also changed connectors, I think between 1996 and 97, but they also will interchange if you modify the connectors, and the part of the alternator that contains the connectors can be interchanged if you have a correct bad one and an incorrect good one. Grand Cherokees for some period used the same size alternator as the 4.0. with a slightly higher amperage output. I found a freshly rebuilt GC alternator at a yard sale that had the same connectors as the 95 type, and it fit fine. Later my 99 alternator conked out and I swapped the connectors and put it in that.

Nippondenso alternators, not Mitsubishi.

Earlier units used 2xM4 studs for the field coil connections, later units use a funky round plug with two 1/4" spade lugs in it. The wiring may be adapted one to the other readily, and a "kit" approach is in mind if I can find the parts I need to do it...
 
Nippondenso alternators, not Mitsubishi.

Earlier units used 2xM4 studs for the field coil connections, later units use a funky round plug with two 1/4" spade lugs in it. The wiring may be adapted one to the other readily, and a "kit" approach is in mind if I can find the parts I need to do it...
Sorry about that. Bad mistyping on my part, and I meant Nippondenso! Thanks for the correction.
 
Sorry about that. Bad mistyping on my part, and I meant Nippondenso! Thanks for the correction.

No worries - you're an old hand, like me, and we do screw up.

I just wanted to correct it for archival purposes - by making sure that the thread itself is correct as a whole, it's a more useful search result.
 
I had to replace the starters in both my XJs, an they'd started cranking slowly, both with known good batteries. Electric motors can develop a weak or bad winding, or possibly the brushes are worn. New units can be had for about a hundred bucks. Advance has been carrying Remy brand (remember Delco Remy of GM fame?), and they seem to be decent quality. And, since there's no core value on a new unit, you can keep the old one, get a rebuild kit, and refurbish it at your leisure, having a spare on hand.
 
I'm getting mine rebuilt this weekend instead of doing it myself if its any good (might be seized).
25 bucks for a basic rebuild(no new parts), plus parts if needed.
 
Didn't some of the new ones use a gear reduction setup?
 
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