??on wood stove, who work for fire dept?

[goin4wheelin]

i'm planning to get a wood stove to heat up my house this coming winter and need opinion, input and help.

the space i got for the stove's very limited, it going to sit on a corner.

the wall i got were made by sheet-rock(??)

i'm trying to put a stove as less clearance as possible to the side and back wall, what kind of material should I use?

The stove I'm getting's from Englander and will heat up to 1500 sq ft.

http://www.englanderstoves.com/13-ncp.html



thanks

 

[seanR]

Get some stuff called cement board, or fire board, its called different things in different areas. Mount that stuff on the wall with a 3/4-1" air space between that and the wall. You should also put a flame resistant surface on the floor, like ceramic tile or brick.

You should be able to put the wood stove a foot away from the wall. Sometimes they will tell you minimum clearances in the instructions that come with the wood stove.

 

[w_howey]

Contact your insurance agent, most companies have restrictions on placement, types of backer materials, hearth materials and such.

The material SeanR mentioned also goes by DuRock. That is the particular manufacturers brand name.

 

[Glenn B]

As an Ex Firefighter, I will off the following advice, in addition to what the others have said above....

You will also want to check with your local Govt. to see what Permits may be needed. I know you can get away with out em..... but good to have done for your Insurance (if you ever have a claim, you would not want to deal with the fact that the install was not up to Spec).

On the stove pipe.... I strongly advise that is go straight up, no elbows, turns twists etc... They just end up being good places for creosote etc... to build up and are no fun for cleaning the pipes, as well as chimney fires. Of course, get the GOOD stuff for the flanges and pipe that go through the ceiling.... not a place to save money.

Also, get a stove that has forced air circulation.... very handy.
Look at lots of stoves, and keep in mind the size of typical firewood in your area.

We got a Lopi year before last. Very good and efficient stove. The way it is build, the offset specs for side and rear are not much at all. Since we got it, we heat the entire house using only wood now. No electric heat, and we removed our pellet stove as well.

Glenn

 

[goin4wheelin]

thanks all for the input. i 'm thinking about the Durock stuff for the walls and the floor with tile on it. it seem to be cheaper than the stove board.
regrading the insurance agent, i dont have insurance on my small house.

Glenn Baker, I went and saw the Lopi stove and live em but $$$. what are the different between the Lopi and the Englander and the other stove maker? From my point of view, they all look the same, what do i miss??
i'm planning to go use the double wall pipe instead of the black pipe/single wall pipe on the interior to reduce the heat. i been told i need the double wall for ceiling and all the way up to the roof and as high as to the top of the peak of the roof. what are the different between the double wall and the triple wall? can i ran away with double wall?

 

[Glenn B]

thanks all for the input. i 'm thinking about the Durock stuff for the walls and the floor with tile on it. it seem to be cheaper than the stove board.
regrading the insurance agent, i dont have insurance on my small house.

Glenn Baker, I went and saw the Lopi stove and live em but $$$. what are the different between the Lopi and the Englander and the other stove maker? From my point of view, they all look the same, what do i miss??
i'm planning to go use the double wall pipe instead of the black pipe/single wall pipe on the interior to reduce the heat. i been told i need the double wall for ceiling and all the way up to the roof and as high as to the top of the peak of the roof. what are the different between the double wall and the triple wall? can i ran away with double wall?

Not sure about the Englander. Can't say I have ever seen one. Yes, the Lopi are expensive, but we wanted a very efficient stove and the Lopi fit that bill. Even though last winter here was pretty mild, we heated the entire house all winter season with just under 2 cords of wood.

I run single wall inside the house. I take it apart each year to clean it, so the single wall is easier for that. We have tripple wall up through the ceiling ant attic.

I forgot to mention... make sure you have a good quality Cap on top. One with a screen is a good idea if you have a shake roof, or there is trees etc... in the area. Our very expensive cap was destroyed in a storm, so we went with a cheaper non-screened one as a replacement. This summer, the bats hung out in the stove pipe. Was fun getting that all cleaned up. lol.
Glenn

 

[goin4wheelin]

Glenn Baker, what model stove did you get?

 

[Glenn B]

Hi,
I have the Lopi "Answer".
Glenn

 

[Eagle]

goin4wheelin --

Sorry I found this late -- I was away for the weekend at a chapter event.

Any solid fuel burning stove (wood, coal, pellet, buffalo chip -- whatever) MUST be tested by Underwriters' Laboratory (U.L.) or some other accreditaed testing agency to prove to the folks who write fire codes that it is safe. It will then have a very specific "listing" that explains in excruciating detail the minimum clearances and the conditions under which it can be installed. The same applies to the chimney pipe.

Get the literature for the stove you are considering and read it. Durok is a cement-fiber board, but it is intended as a waterproof backing for tile, NOT as a non-combustible exposed surface next to a high-heat solid fuel stove. It may or may not be acceptable -- my guess is that it probably is not. If it doesn't have a U.L. listing as an exposed non-combustible finish -- it isn't the right stuff to use.

 

[Glenn B]

Yup. Thats why I mentioned the local Govt (building inspectors, whatever y'all have out there) for the Permit stuff.

It will most likely spec the UL 1482, EPA, and NFPA, and whoever else in your area regulates what you do. They will spec the minimum, but do better if you can on the ceiling stuff.
I still go with single wall inside...One thing I forgot to mention above.... if you go with metalbestos or similar all the way up, the stove pipe can actually be "too cold". That is not good either.

I imagine you would be very hard pressed to buy a non UL approved stove from a manufacturer or store.

Eagle.. you all *really* burn buffalo chips out that way?

Glenn

 

[Matthew Currie]

I recently replaced my stove. It was a big old Garrison wood stove, with heat shields for close clearances. The previous owner of my house had installed it on a hearth made of slate, cemented to a piece of plywood over the old maple floor. When I removed it, the maple floor beneath was charred.

I replaced it with an old Hearthstone stove. The instructions for that one include some interesting hints. They recommend a minimum 4 inch thickness hearth of brick on edge mortared over sheet metal over plywood. As an alternative, a special heat shield over tile over cement board.

They count as a combustible surface one that has any combustible components, regardless of covering. In other words, if you have a stud wall covered with sheetrock covered with brick, it's still combustible, because the brick will conduct the heat to the studs. The heat dries out the combustible materials, too, so they will catch fire even quicker.

They also do not recommend "air ventilated" pipe for any portion of the flue, because it cools too rapidly and promotes creosote. If you use multi-wall pipe, make sure it's solid insulated or "air insulated," not ventilated.

 

[goin4wheelin]

Hey guys/gals,
After a long thinking, I decided to put the stove board on the floor, side and back wall for the safety. And also I'm going with the black pipe on the interior and double pipe on the ceiling and all the way up.

 

[Eagle]

Hey guys/gals,
After a long thinking, I decided to put the stove board on the floor, side and back wall for the safety. And also I'm going with the black pipe on the interior and double pipe on the ceiling and all the way up.

What's "stove board"? I'm licensed as both an architect (in 3 states) and a building inspector. I've never encountered a product sold as "stove board."

Read BOTH the installation instructions for the stove and flue pipe you want to use, AND the U.L. listing for the stove and the flue pipe. U.L. does not just "approve" any appliance in a vacuum. It is approved exactly the way they tested it, and if anything about your installation is different, you do NOT have a U.L. listed stove.

For example, let's say the U.L. listing for the stove you selected says it is listed when installed with a minimum clearance to a combustible wall of 6 inches. You install it with 4 inches of clearance. You have violated the listing. Your stove is not safe because your installation is not safe.

READ -- READ -- READ. We do not have the literature. Your answers are in the literature for the particular stove and flue. There is nobody here who can answer you unless they have the literature for that exact stove and that exact flue in front of them, because each make and model of stove and flue may have slightly different requirements and clearances.

 

[goin4wheelin]

Eagle

Hey Eagle,
The stove I'm planning to get is made by Englander, here's the site to the one I'm getting:
http://www.englanderstoves.com/13-ncp.html

I saw them at Lowe's. It was rated 18000sq ft.EPA certified.



The stove board I was talking,
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=41312-000085334-BM0128RC

and it was UL rated.

The stove pipe for the interior's the regular one.

The double wall pipe, and roof kit
http://www.selkirkcanada.com/products/supervent/supervent_usa.asp

thanks for the help.




please email me with more info pls at [email protected]

 

[Eagle]

My computer and dial-up connection are too slow for me to deal with Adobe pages. Also, I really can't give you specific advice for liability reasons.

All I can tell you is what I already wrote. To be legal in a house in just about any jurisdiction in the USA or Canada, a stove has to be tested and listed by U.L., U.L.-Canada, CSA, or some other recognized, accredited testing agency. The listing from U.L. tells how it was tested, and that's how it is must be installed to be legal (and safe).

Just saying a stove is U.L. listed doesn't say anything. If it is listed for 12" clearance, it isn't safe (or listed) if installed with less than 12" of clearance. The manufacturer's literature should coincide with the clearances for the U.L. listing, and for major manufacturers like Lopi I think you can rely on them. Off-brands, I would be less likely to trust their literature and I would also read the actual U.L. listing. If it isn't included with the stove literature, call the manufacturer and ask them to send it to you. If that doesn't work, call U.L.

There will be a separate listing for the flue pipe. That will also have a minimum clearance to combustible framing (for a double wall it will probably be 2", for a triple wall maybe 1" or maybe zero). Be sure you follow those requirements, also.

BTW -- In every square inch of Connecticut you need a building permit to install a wood-burning stove. That's also true for most municipalities in most states. Unless you live in an unincorporated area, most likely you need a building permit -- and even many counties have building inspectors and a permit process. You should find out if your area requires a permit, and who issues it. If you have a building inspector, he should be able to help you sort through the requirements for the installation. You should get it right, because it would be a PITA to finish everything and then have the inspector make you rip it out and start over.