Not Beezil or OneTon sexy, but...

[Lincoln]

The air valves are in.

I just have the tank skid to put on, which I've had for about 1 1/2 years, and that should be it of the "have to do" for the Jeep. Then I need to strip some goodies off the Ford and move them to the Dodge.

Also what is the best pressure to regulate the ARB. I've been running at 85 psi, is that good?

Later,
Lincoln

 

[Matt99XJ]

Are you asking what pressure is needed to activate your lockers? If so 85 is WAY too much. I believe it is around 2-5 psi.

 

[CharlesS]

According to ARB the pressure is 60-90 psi. I actuate my ARB on the lower end of that range. The 2-5 psi that you are thinking about is probably what the Wrangler Rubicon air lockers actuate at.

 

[Anthropy]

Stupid question,

Why do you have 4 solenoid valves. Don't you just need 1 three way for the ront and 1 for the back?

Also, good choice on the push lock connectors. They will serve you nicely. We use them a lot on our equipment. Nice thing is if you damage a hose, replacing it is a snap.

Lastly, be sure that your amp rating is sufficient. Even though the rating on the solenoid may be low, the in-rush amperage can be as high as 3 - 4 times the solenoid rating. So if you were to blow a fuse, that could be your culprit.

Also, never pull the coil off of the solenoid and then power the solenoid as that is a good way to fry the coil. If you need to apply power to the coil, insert a screw driver or some other metalic item through the coil. I have melted a few coils before.

Tom Dennis

 

[Lincoln]

Thanks Charles, that was the info I was looking for. I'll lower the pressure a bit.


Anthropy, if you look closely I have 5 valves. The ARB is tucked in the upper right side of the bank (from the pictures point of view). You can also see that crap 5mm line they use.

I only have a rear ARB at the moment. The rest of the valves are for cheapo air bags that go inside coil springs. I was looking for a way to pick up a little stability out of the rear coils when needed. I've been running since this spring and decided they were working well enough I would plumb them into my compressor.

I wanted two 4 way valves but they were $$. The local supplier I use sells Aktron valves and they were around $100 a piece. These are Snap Tite (?) and were only about $26. So I used four.

Thanks for the other tips.

Thanks,
Lincoln

 

[Anthropy]

No problem with the info. If those valves don't work out for you, try going with asco brand valves. Yes, they are expensive, but they are well made.

http://www.ascovalve.com/

However, for $25 each it is hard to go wrong. I would suggest that you purchase a couple of spares to have on hand. At that price, they may have a short life expentancy.

Also, I would install an air drier before the solenoids or an large one off of your air supply tank. Some brands don't take moisture inside of the mechanism very well.

We are using an el-chepo brand right now on some equipment. If they get water in them, they are pretty much toast and start leaking.

Also, why did you not use one valve per axle and Tee the airline to the each air bag on the axle? By using individual solenoids, if one craps out, then you will sag on that side.

 

[Lincoln]

Actually, I wanted to control each bag (only have two) independantly. So I could stiffen one side and soften the other when needed.

The nice thing about these cheap bags is when one goes (or lose a valve) I can easily drop the presure in the other and I'm just back to my standard setup. Reliablity shouldn't be much of an issue though. It only leaves the garage for fun trips. I've only put 5K on it this year. I will probably have to put a drier in the system anyway. I alway's have problems when trying to seat a bead in sub zero temps. Ice in the lines.

I wanted a slightly stiffer spring and I need about .5" more bumpstop. I added the bags (5 psi min.) and cut my existing bump stops to get the travel back close. It's worked pretty well so far.

This winter I would like to redesign my links in back and I might ditch the air. I've been using them to combat bad geometry.

We'll see how it works in Moab.

Thanks,
Lincoln

 

[Anthropy]

Kind of off the topic, but you mentioned poping the bead on the tire.

I was watching this show on extreme 4wheeling and they showed these guys up in the artic. They would run across the ice with their tires on low inflation, just as if for rock crawling.

Anyway, when they lost a bead on a tire, they wipped out a can of starting fluid (ether) sprayed a very small shot around the bead then sprayed another shot while standing back and using a lighter to ignite the ether.

Not that I would recommened it, but they inflated the tire in a split second. I suppose they could get away with it since it was most likely 30 below F. or greater outside temps.

 

[4ward]

Anthropy, that's a pretty old trick and it's used all over the place. You don't spray the ether on the bead, you spray it inside the tire. I recommend removing the valve stem first though. That flame burst can produce some hellacious pressure. [end thread hijack]

Sean

 

[Lincoln]

Sean, I alway's lay a strip up over the bead so I don't have to through the match inside the tire. Use it like a fuse.

I also attach the air hose and get it pumping before the light. Sometimes, if too much starting fluid is used, it will continue to burn and suck the tire back off the bead.

Anthropy, the freeze problem alway's happened when trying to get air back into the tire. I alway's have to run the tire up to about 30 psi (maybe the new wheels will help) and then drop them back down to 2-4 while running snow.

One of these day's I'm going to buy some bead locks.

Later,
Lincoln