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New part interference


NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Tacoma, wa
So I’m in the process of installing a 4in lift kit on my 97 and running into fitment issues between the Core 4x4 track bar bracket and JKS sway bar disconnects, I can get about 1/4in clearance if I pull the sway bar all the way to the drivers side but it doesn’t stay there, I don’t want to grind the track bar bracket because it’s powder coated and looks so nice. Anyone have a similar issue?

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I too am running that combination, but I am not having the interference you are experiencing.

Hopefully this picture will show up for you. I have been having some problems with my photos showing, but I think the issue is more a matter of my own computer than it is with hosting. But, let me know if this doesn't show:


In full disclosure I am now also running sway bar mounts that move things slightly forward. These were required when I installed the Boostwerks Comp Mount. However, I was running the JKS disconnects and the Core 4x4 bracket for several years before the Comp Mount went in and I did not have an interference problem then either. Here should be a photo that shows more of the complete picture:


I am not sure what to suggest you change, but it appears that you can gain the clearance you need if you shift the sway bar forward.
The pics show up fine for me. Thanks for posting them. Moving the bar forward might be the trick. Do you remember where you got the spacers from?

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I am glad the pics show for you. I don't understand why some folks can see them and others not. I can't see them myself.

Those spacers came from Boostwerks. They were part of the Comp Mount package. I don't know if they will show as a separate item on the Boostwerks site, but if not I would contact Bryson and ask if he can sell you a set separately. And if he can't, I believe there are other companies who have them as a separate item.

That said, I would be inclined to try to avoid going with the spacers if possible. They lower your sway bar in the front. Unless you have another good reason to lower it (such as the Comp Mount) you are giving up ground clearance un-necessarily.

The first thing I would do is loosen up the mount bolts for the sway bar and try to simply shift it forward. The holes probably have some play that may get you enough clearance. Try that first and see how much of a difference it makes. If not enough, then consider elongating the holes in the sway bar mounting brackets. Maybe pick up a pair from the junkyard to play with.

Actually, now that I think through this, I think the first thing to do is evaluate the condition of your sway bar bushings. If they are too far worn it would be good to replace them first and then see what your clearances are and work from there.

Those steps won't cost you ground clearance and may save you from needing more parts. Certainly worth a try in my book.
If all else fails, just modify the bracket.
You won't lose any structural strength,
and if you touch it up with paint it'll look
I had the same problem with my Core4x4 bracket.
Yeah I just took my grinder to it to clearance the sway bar. It is still kinda close, but I have 1500 miles or so road, and 50 mile off road on it, and have had no problems.

Core4x4 Upper & Lower control arms, plus their track bar, OME springs, and just like you the JKS dicsco.
Ok, that’s a good point, I’ll look at elongating the bracket holes and see what that gains me first. The bushings are about 6months old… might also just see how it does without the sway bar… never ran one on my YJ back in the day.

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Thanks Dusty. I’ll go that route if I have to, such pretty powder coat though… how’s the ride with the OME springs, I’ve heard good things for so many years I expect a lot lol.

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That trackbar bracket looks long for a 4" lift, have you taken a pic of your steering angles yet?
That trackbar bracket looks long for a 4" lift, have you taken a pic of your steering angles yet?

No not yet, I can get a pic in the morning. I just picked the lowest hole to keep everything as flat as possible… is that wrong?

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The track-bar angle should match the drag-link angle from joint to joint (bends do not matter).