Addicted2XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Maine
Hey everyone... Im new here but I have been in to XJ's for a few years now. To start, I have a 98 Jeep cherokee that I bought bone stock with plans of lifting it / making it everythign I every want in an XJ before even had the title. I went from this:
Then I changed out the motor for a 4.0 with 50,000k (old one had bad bearings), put in a rough country 4.5" long arm lift kit, 8.8 swap in the rear and hpd30 front both with 4.10s, aussie locker in the front and ford trac loc LSD in the rear rear thats currently getting rebuilt with more clutch packs.
Thats about the basics, other than small things like a custom rear bumper, and HID's in h4 housings that im soon replacing with projector housings, durango steering swap, etc. Currently running 31x10.5 sumitomo HTR all terrains for the winter, summer tires are brand new 34x9.5 swampers. All work done myself in my garage.
Pictured here with bald 33's...
ANYWAYS..now that you know what im driving / dealing with ..
I have had off and on (mostly off...) heat for, well.. since if owned the jeep. I have flushed the whole coolant system, and I flushed the heater core with CLR and it flowed right through, there was no clogs or anything.
So, I put it back together, put a new radiator in it, and a new thermostat (that seems to be working, stays right at 210. Old working thermostat sat it right at 180).
So after all that, I parked it up on ramps in the driveway, pulled the rad. cap off and let it run for probably 20-30 minutes until all the air bubbles came out. The heat worked pretty good for about a day, then went back to just air..
The next week, did the same thing, thinking maybe more air bubbles were trapped inside the coolant system. I burped it for another 30 minutes and then re-filled with coolant as needed. The heat worked for about 2 days, then died off. It is luke warm at best now.
I dont have a cap for the overflow bottle, so for now I have been covering it with tape (redneck, I know).
The top heater core line is pretty hot, the one below it (retrun line) is not as warm, but nonetheless pretty warm.
I noticed that its harder to turn it from hot to cold, than it is to turn it to from cold to hot. Hot to cold I feel like the knob has some kind of air pressure resistance (vaccum?). When I turn it to hot from cold, I dont get that "compression" feeling. Could this be something to look in to?
I am trying to narrow it down.. I hope I dont have to change the heater core but to me thats looking like the only rthing left. Hot air is deffinatly getting in to the heater core, and being dispersed somewhere from the heater core because the return line is not as hot, so the heat is deff. going somewhere. Is there anyway that a blend door is stuck open letting cool air in with the hot air? How hard are the blend doors to fix?

Thats about the basics, other than small things like a custom rear bumper, and HID's in h4 housings that im soon replacing with projector housings, durango steering swap, etc. Currently running 31x10.5 sumitomo HTR all terrains for the winter, summer tires are brand new 34x9.5 swampers. All work done myself in my garage.
Pictured here with bald 33's...


ANYWAYS..now that you know what im driving / dealing with ..
I have had off and on (mostly off...) heat for, well.. since if owned the jeep. I have flushed the whole coolant system, and I flushed the heater core with CLR and it flowed right through, there was no clogs or anything.
So, I put it back together, put a new radiator in it, and a new thermostat (that seems to be working, stays right at 210. Old working thermostat sat it right at 180).
So after all that, I parked it up on ramps in the driveway, pulled the rad. cap off and let it run for probably 20-30 minutes until all the air bubbles came out. The heat worked pretty good for about a day, then went back to just air..
The next week, did the same thing, thinking maybe more air bubbles were trapped inside the coolant system. I burped it for another 30 minutes and then re-filled with coolant as needed. The heat worked for about 2 days, then died off. It is luke warm at best now.
I dont have a cap for the overflow bottle, so for now I have been covering it with tape (redneck, I know).
The top heater core line is pretty hot, the one below it (retrun line) is not as warm, but nonetheless pretty warm.
I noticed that its harder to turn it from hot to cold, than it is to turn it to from cold to hot. Hot to cold I feel like the knob has some kind of air pressure resistance (vaccum?). When I turn it to hot from cold, I dont get that "compression" feeling. Could this be something to look in to?
I am trying to narrow it down.. I hope I dont have to change the heater core but to me thats looking like the only rthing left. Hot air is deffinatly getting in to the heater core, and being dispersed somewhere from the heater core because the return line is not as hot, so the heat is deff. going somewhere. Is there anyway that a blend door is stuck open letting cool air in with the hot air? How hard are the blend doors to fix?
