• NAXJA is having its 19th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Making it better

jb660r

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North East, PA
This summer I plan on doing a decent amount of work to my xj, lift, bumpers (which i wil make)tires,etc. Before I do I want to know as much as I can about what it came with from the factory. things like xfer, axles and the like. So my question is, how much info can I get from my VIN? and where to get it.
What I do know is it is a 93 Cherokee "country" (whatever the country means, I'm assuming an appearance package) 4.0, auto. Thanks for your help.
 
I'm not exactly sure where you can decode your VIN at, but if you search around this forum I'm sure that someone has asked this question before. I'm not sure if the "country" package you're talking about is the same as the "Up Country" package in which cherokees got a 1" lift from the factory with tow hooks and skids IIRC. As for the drivetrain, the auto is the Aison Warner 4-speed w/OD, if you have Full Time 4WD then you have the NP242, or else you have the NP231. You have a Dana 30 front axle, and you'd have to identify whether or not you have the Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 rear end. Autos always came with a 3.55 gear ratio unless you had a tow package then I'm not sure, and manuals came with 3.07s. I'm not the most knowledgable about XJs but I'm slowly learning too, so I'll let someone else chime in here.
 
"Country" is mostly an apprearance pkg, it is true.

For the VIN info, start here: http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/tech/vin/

Or enter it at the Kelly Blue Book site, for general info: http://www.kbb.com/carfaxhome.html

Otherwise, I think you can just e-mail Jeep Customer Assistance: http://www-5.jeep.com/webselfservic...stomer&country=us&emailUrl=goToEmailForm('R'). They should send you a build sheet showing all the options your XJ had when the first owner purchased it. Previous owner(s) could have changed some of the orig equipment, of course. Also, sometimes the build sheets are inaccurate b/c Chrysler tends to reuse build codes--so if you e-mail them & they send you a build sheet, one or two of the options may look funny. For example, it may say you have Dodge Neon style headlights or something similarly bizarre. For the most part, though, the build sheet should be accurate on a 1993 model.

For recall info via the VIN, enter your VIN on this page: http://www-5.jeep.com/webselfservic...recall&country=us&emailUrl=goToEmailForm('R')

BTW, most of this stuff will not tell you exactly which transfer case you have, etc. (the build sheet I think would mention 4WD Full Time or 4WD Part Time, but won't specify transfer case model number or build date). For all of that, you should search for pictures of each, or crawl under the Jeep to look for identifying tags/marks. The build sheet I mentioned, though, will tell you what amperage your alternator is rated at, whether it came with remote-controlled door locks & a few other things (if you don't have an IR receiver on the inside roof, then you don't have remote door locks).

A nice, bare-bones list of the variety of available axles, tcases, trannies, etc., can be found here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26256
 
Last edited:
I always wondered what that thing above the rear view mirror was, now I know, I dont have the remotes for it, but it does answer that question. So now is a dana 30 ok? is the 231 xfer good? and last , how do I tell which rear axle I have? and which is better. i really appreciate all the info, and my 12 year old son will be happy to know what in the world that black bubble above the rear view is.
 
jb660r said:
I always wondered what that thing above the rear view mirror was, now I know, I dont have the remotes for it, but it does answer that question.
Yep, that's what that is. It is not a spy camera.

You probably don't want to buy remotes for it, by the way. Since it is IR controlled, it is line-of-sight only, so you have to point the remote through the windows to get it to work, and the range is only about 15 ft. Most drivers prefer the radio transmitter-type remote locks because the remote has a greater range & is less sensitive to your ability to aim in a straight line. For my purposes, the IR is fine. Also, buying a new remote from the dealer costs over $100. I bought one anyway, though it might've been cheaper to install a new radio-style controller. The remotes are available at various places online, but you have to make sure to specify IR and not radio, otherwise they inevitably send you the radio transmitter.

jb660r said:
So now is a dana 30 ok? is the 231 xfer good?
The Dana 30, or d30 abbreviated, is the standard front axle, and it's sufficiently strong until you have the Jeep lifted with, oh, 33" tires--at which point you might be in danger of breaking the axle. The 231 tcase is supposedly the stronger of the two available tcases. It is plenty strong, just make sure it is filled with fresh oil (synthetic oil is good in the tcase and in the axle differentials). If the tcase goes dry, bad things can happen. If it were out of oil you'd hear a loud grinding or clacking/ticking sound coming from that area.

jb660r said:
and last , how do I tell which rear axle I have?
I was afraid that would come up. There aren't any good pictures on the Internet showing the difference. On a '93 there are two possibilities. If you have ABS, then you have a d35 (i.e. Dana 35); if you do not have ABS, then you probably have the Chrysler 8.25" 27-spline. The Chrysler 8.25 has a very noticeable flat bottom edge on the differential, whereas the d35 is rounded. It is better to have the 8.25, because it is stronger. However, most jeepers recommend going no larger than 33" tires with the 8.25. Basically, once you go above, what, 5.5" of lift & 33" tires, at that point you need new axles (and probably new gears, too). But for standard stuff, and off-roading with stock suspension height, the d30 & the 8.25 are plenty strong.

Here's an axle ID chart of dubious quality. Usually you can count the bolts in the differential cover to tell which is which, but not always:
axleIDpic.jpg


Note: the largest tire you could fit without a lift is usually 30" in diameter. The 235/75/15 tires I run measure in at 29.5" and they actually rub the lower control arms (LCAs) a bit.

This is what my 8.25 rear axle looks like--notice the flat bottom:
reardifferential01.jpg
 
Back
Top