• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Looking for opinions on running 38s


NAXJA Forum User
Currently I'm running Dana 44 front ARB, 8.25 rear with Detriot, 4.56 gears. With Full traction long arm 6.5" lift, but running 4.5" springs in front on 36" TSLs.

I'm thinking of going with 38" TSLs and throwing an 8.8 with the Super 8.8 kit and a detoit for the rear and leaving the dana 44 in the front. Putting the 6.5" springs back on the front. and moving the rear axle back 2-4" depending on where the diff comes to the gas tank. My concerns now is that when I'm approaching something very steep and coming off something steep it wants to come over. And moving the rear axle back some will get more of the weight between the axles helping with stability on steep terrain. Also probably upgrading the transfer case to an 4.3 atlas, for better crawling.
Just wanted some input on my thoughts.

Hey Nick you could just sell me that dana 44. Just throw it on the truck after the next delivery. Jeep is looking great by the way:clap: , how did you manage to bend that Tera Flex Tie rod so bad.
Digger Your Boxman
I am running 37's on mine with a hp44 and 60. I have not moved the rear axle back, but I was able to get an extra 3 inches or so of wheelbase by moving the front axle foreward. I have not noticed any major change in stability, but I am alot lower than you are, I am only running 4.5" of lift. If you are going to 38's I would recommend upgrading to something a little bigger than the 8.8. It may hold just fine, and with the super 8.8 kit it probably will be fine, but you can get a larger axle and run it as is for much cheaper. I have a total of under $600 in my rear 60, including gears, the axle, brakes, bearings, seals, and the spool.
If you use Rufstuff pearches on the 8.8 you will gain an inch over a stock setup due to the pearch height and the difference in tube thickness. The Ruffstuff pearches have extra holes in them so you can move it 1" forward or backward. Just to toss that out there. You can also run a limmiter strap in the center of you rear diff to limmit the droop on both sides at once but it wont hurt droop on one side if the other is stuffed. Give your strap only a small amount of slack when on level ground so it doesent bump going down the road. The rock buggy crowd would mount a atv winch on the floor in the back and run the cable down to the center of the pumpkin and befor they drop off a ledge they sinch the winch cable up tight lowering the rear. Cool huh!
I agree I would like to upgrade to full widths, but I have an 8.8 sitting around and thought it could hold up to 38s. I'm reserved when it comes to the skinny pedal. Ah the Tera "flex" Tie rod likes rocks... Its a little more high clearance now. Those silly rocks must like it or something. My other thought was getting some 4.5" rear springs and see what that does for me. I'm not afraid to cut some body if needed.
Sounds like a plan, stay as low as you can though.

RockControlXJ is on 37" MTR's and a measly 4.5" with alot of body cutting, but if you stayed at 6" or less you'd still be sitting decent.

He is also running an 8.8, but full width.

Here is the link to his build thread