Longfield 5-760 heat treated/chryoed u-joints

Spooky

NAXJA Forum User
Anyone tried a set of these yet?

Dana44.jpg
Dana44s.jpg


With the reputation longfields have with the toy crowd these might be the ticket.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
 
It sure would be interesting to test them.

Alot cheaper than CTMs

I've seen that cryo process used with great results on comp rig stuff.

mark
orgs mfg
 
some people got a test set from pirate board. I think camo and rudezuk. These were an early set though...they bashed them to hell because the needle bearings gave cracking the cap...and the u-joint seized..causing an axle breakage, or something allong those lines...The cross held up though.

I think after these guys made the hugest fuss in the world about them...that's why the longfields use the "special bushing" now rather than the needle bearings, just like CTM's. I wouldn't hesistate to give them a shot. When I go for a 44, I'll be using them, unless some bad results show up between now and then. _nicko_
 
Why cant these be used in the D 30 shafts that use the 760 joints? If you use a set of aftermarket shafts that use full circle clips you should be good to go right?

AARON
 
A place here in town is offering 760 joints with brass bushings instead of needles for 40.00 a pop. They are going into my xj.
 
With my Jeep being a daily driver, I will only use needle bearings in it while I have full time hubs. If I had unlockable hubs, I would go with the bushing without question. I don't want to risk 70 bucks a pop for wearing them out within a few months on my 30. Unless some people do daily driving tests with the bushings, then I will stick with the needles. _nicko_
 
They are doing a two step process.

Freeze it to make the molecules line up tightly and then they re heat treat it for hardness.

The brass bushings spread the load better in the cap and also the amount of wear is minimal because it's not spinning on the trunion but just turning back and forth a little.

mark
orgs mfg
 
gearwhine said:
With my Jeep being a daily driver, I will only use needle bearings in it while I have full time hubs. If I had unlockable hubs, I would go with the bushing without question. I don't want to risk 70 bucks a pop for wearing them out within a few months on my 30. Unless some people do daily driving tests with the bushings, then I will stick with the needles. _nicko_


Daily driving has nothing to do with wearing them out. There isn't all that much pressure on them driving on the street. They aren't like wheel bearings. The joint doesn't do much during street driving in the way of creating lots of pressure.

mark
orgs mfg
 
Mark Hinkley said:
Daily driving has nothing to do with wearing them out. There isn't all that much pressure on them driving on the street. They aren't like wheel bearings. The joint doesn't do much during street driving in the way of creating lots of pressure.

mark
orgs mfg

Yeah, the only time the u-joint moves is while turning, and there pretty much is no pressue on it unless it's being used as a driving axle as you're saying, but it is spinning inside the caps quite a bit. I just have this thing stuck in my head that it wants to roll freely and needles are the only way to do that. Then I wonder why Spicer doesn't put bushings in their caps from the factory.
We'll just have to see...maybe I'll get them and see what happens...I guess the most that will happen is the bushing will wear out, and I can always replace that..assuming they will sell just the bushing. _nicko_
 
gearwhine said:
spinning inside the u-joint caps, not the yoke ears....everything is fine. ;)


He's talking about using the word *spinning*. It really doesn't spin it just turns back and forth a little. The cap will only spin (around in circles) if the axle yoke hole are stretched.

mark
orgs mfg
 
Mark Hinkley said:
They are doing a two step process.

Freeze it to make the molecules line up tightly and then they re heat treat it for hardness.


I was under the impression you did the heat treat first then the cryro. It doesn't make sence to do it the other way since the heat treatment would undo what the cryo did.
 
Im pretty sure the heat treating is for the molecular realignment of the internals of the part being treated (before chryo).
Chryo is specifically done to treat the surface hardness of the part. Smooth surface molecularly=less molecular stress risers= less chance of breaking a cap which is usually what happenes first, right?
 
Lucas said:
Im pretty sure the heat treating is for the molecular realignment of the internals of the part being treated (before chryo).
Chryo is specifically done to treat the surface hardness of the part. Smooth surface molecularly=less molecular stress risers= less chance of breaking a cap which is usually what happenes first, right?

Chryo is for molecular alignment
heat treat is for hardness.

mark
orgs mfg
 
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