Long arms conversion

WOW!! Thanks for the info guys, I may move the rear lower mount to the edge or just below the frame rail if needed to keep the lower as flat is possible.

Thanks again for the info. I'll post up again when all the ends turn up and the sparks start flying.
 
Phil said:
Running the single upper on the passenger side reduces any clearance issues for the front driveline.

Alright, I can see that I guess, although I didn't have any driveline clearance problems with mine. I would recommend doing a truss or something though if this is the case.

Phil said:
You can move the brake and fuel lines, and remove part of the pinch seam if necessary. I don't have framerail clearance issues, and my mounts are even more triangulated than yours, and higher. My lowers are 40" long. You can see how we did my transmission mount and arm mounts in my pictures.

Having the arms be more triangulated would help the clearance, not hurt it, no? Are you still on a D30? On the 3-link I'm doing now, the lowers are inboard about 3" on each side from the frame rails, mounted up even height-wise with the inside of the frame, and go out to the outer ends of a D60 front, and it's looking like I'll still have some small issues at that same area.

spring3.JPG


Guess it depends also on total lift height too. I'm trying to stay at around 4.5 - 5" or so.
 
OK, I see how you did yours...



(I like that design, by the way)

but pulling the arms in close like that will definitely help clear the frame rails. It seems like Ponyracer1 wants to mount them directly off the inside of the frame rail, putting them a few inches further apart on each side and making it harder to clear the rails.
 
Well the original ideas will/may change once I actually start mounting stuff up and flexing it to check clearance. My goal was to mount them to the frame rail so the cross member could be removeable. But then again, how often do you need to pull your crossmember?? Thanks for all the info and pics.
 
Ghost said:
I could be wrong but I would think that they would rip the thin sheet metal. Will you be mounting them on a plate then welding it to the unibody? I hope someone chimes in on this bc I really dont "know" but that is what I would guess.

Plate the framerail where you're going to weld them, and then weld them to the plate. Done deal.

The unibody isn't as weak as alot of webbies will tell you it is.
 
vintagespeed said:
Plate the framerail where you're going to weld them, and then weld them to the plate. Done deal.

The unibody isn't as weak as alot of webbies will tell you it is.
Umm well maybe you can explain to me why my factry LCA mounts ripped most of the way off? It is quite thin ty very much and I have been under there welder in hand fixing it! :sure: Oh yea I have some pictures but lost the digi! Go FIgure!
 
Ghost said:
Umm well maybe you can explain to me why my factry LCA mounts ripped most of the way off? It is quite thin ty very much and I have been under there welder in hand fixing it! :sure: Oh yea I have some pictures but lost the digi! Go FIgure!

Cause you smacked them on shit until they ripped off?

I said plate the framerail & then mount to it.
 
vintagespeed said:
Cause you smacked them on shit until they ripped off?

I said plate the framerail & then mount to it.
Nope actualy it was DW and an old heep!
 
Ghost said:
Nope actualy it was DW and an old heep!

Welp, I hate to argue something stupid so thanks for dragging me into it and ruining this guy's thread.

Anyway, it most likely had to do with your geographic location (ie: RUST) or some kind of previous damage. Death Wobble isn't going to rip off your control arm mounts off.

My Junk was hit while parked on the street by a Cadillac doing about 40-50mph. It tore the axle end CA mounts from one side of the tube, folded the other side over and moved the axle over about 2" by bending the trackbar and draglink, knocked the Jeep back about 10ft.

But it didn't hurt the frame end brackets at all. So I'm not buying your statement.
 
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