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Jes and others who went to JV last time....


NAXJA Forum User
Ok, help my mind with this. When Dan broke his front axles, how did he get his hub apart? I am trying to get mine out and I am being told a bunch of different things. Can you guys help me with this? How is it done on the trail?
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery(just kidding! :lol: ).
Raise and support the vehice, remove the wheel.
Pull out the cotter pin and remove the lock cap.
Remove the 36mm six point nut with a breaker bar(or impact wrench).
Remove the caliper and loosen the three 12pt 13mm bolts that hold on the unit bearing assembly.
Using the socket over the bolts, tap on the bolts working on each one a few times then go to the next. You may have to use extreme prejudice to get the unit bearings to slide out if they have never been removed.
A matter of fact, I recomend anyone who actually wheels that they take apart their front end before blowing something up on the trail.
To ease dissasembly in the future you should take a wire wheel to the edge of the knuckle where the unit bearing keys in, then apply a coat of grease or anti seize before reassembly.
Good luck.

I told you to go to MADXJ

Your not much of a web wheeler are you Matt. :lol: MADXJ has all the insturctions with pictures and the socket size. :roll: Goto Kragen for the 36mm socket it's around $8.99.
If you just want to slip the axle assembly out, with the unit bearing still attached, you don't need to loosen the big 36 mm nut.

Thanks Jes. No i am not much of a web wheeler, I do the real stuff. I dont understand these new fangdangled computers! I guess I am screwed on that cuz I am only 18! 8) Ah I should learn how huh. Well I came in to take a break and get my addiction fed. I got all the Ball Joints out and am putting them in now. So HOPEFULLY, no DW after. Otherwise, I am throwing this axle out and putting a 44 in sooner than I thought. :shock:
quick edit to Jes's well-thought out instructions:

Loosen the 36MM nut before lifting the tire off the ground. These are usually torqued to 150# or so and it makes it tough to get the nut off if the tire doesn't have traction on the ground to keep it from turning. You can alternatively place the body of your hi-lift over two of the hub lugs and wedge the high lift against the ground when applying torque to the 36MM nut.

That won't work with mine because I can't get the cotter pin out with my wheels on. :wink:

My cherry (hub) pop was traumatic...I tried 'everything' short of C4 to get mine out. Even bought a BMF slide hammer deal and got whupped... Then I got turned on to "beater bolts"

Once you have the rotor off and hub bolts loose, go get 2 or 3 of the same pitch (M12 x 1.75mm IIRC x 100mm long) and use those for the beatings. After they pop out, don't forget to put the bolts in your trail-kit for later :eek:

2nd Jes advice on the clean-up and anti-sieze! After a few times in & out they will practically fall out in your hands!

Avoid using the blue-wrench and/or chisels if you want to stay friends with the rotor shield :oops:

Have Fun